Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:36:58 +0100 From: "Frank" <falmaas-at-online.no> Subject: SV: Help!Stuck in Emergency Drive I am currently suck in QT with the light > flickering and flashing with no apparent > pattern.Please help!! Thanks,Bob > > > Bob When my vacuum actuator went bad I had the same kind of symptoms, I had however a easier match to check it because my QT were converted into a part-time case. You should try the vacuum actuator out of the transfer with an hand held vacuum pump, then you could be sure if the actuator works or not. My experience is that the vacuum actuator is the weekest item on the QT case. Frank Norway > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:23:03 +0100 From: "Frank" <falmaas-at-online.no> Subject: SV: regional associations, business cards > Europe - whaddaya think, Frank? > I think that would be a great idea with regional chapters of the IFSJA, this way us european members could meet sometimes without taking the trip over the BIG ocean. Frank Norway[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 15:13:02 -0400 From: Jeff Wynn <jwynn-at-atconf.org> Subject: Oil Smoke Poof gone!!! >Hey Jeff Wynn, how about a little "How To" write up for the FSJ web >page and ORC web page? I have some smoke at start up occasionally, and >may need to replace the valve seals like you did. I could do such a thing if folks would find it helpful. Won't happen right away, as I'm selling my house, moving, working full time, taking a UNIX Sysadmin course and playing music with a local band three times a week. Would someone volunteer to be a technical editor to check the writeup over for grammar and accuracy? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ QUESTION OF THE DAY: How do pushrods get bent? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Jeff Wynn 73 J-4000 360 4bbl[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 12:21:06 -0800 From: "Renshaw, Ken" <krenshaw-at-resumix.com> Subject: RE: Oil Smoke Poof gone!!! Jeff- >...taking a UNIX Sysadmin course... Woohoo! What fun....I've been doing that for 10 years. Not taking the course, either... ;-) > ...and playing music >with a local band three times a week... Cool, what instrument? What kinda music? You can reply directly to me at krenshaw-at-resumix.com -Ken 1979 Wagoneer 'Babe' 360/ProJection/QT 36" SX's, 4.XX's Dana 44's, ARB's > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:50:02 -0600 From: "Jeff Gunn" <jgunn-at-hou.varco.com> Subject: Re: Oil Smoke Poof gone!!! On Mar 11, 1:13pm, Jeff Wynn wrote: > Subject: Oil Smoke Poof gone!!! > > Would someone volunteer > to be a technical editor to check the writeup over for grammar > and accuracy? > >-- End of excerpt from Jeff Wynn Jeff: I'd be happy to check the grammar, and since I need to do this little job I could also read it over and let you know if there are still any questions in my mind when I finish reading it. A guy here at work has the tool(s) to help me do this with the head on the engine, all I need is an air compressor (or $300 to get one!). Jeff Gunn[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 16:01:48 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: Oil Smoke Poof gone!!! Would someone volunteer to be a technical editor to check the writeup over for grammar and accuracy? >>>>> I would love to do it Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 13:56:34 -0800 From: Ron Strouss <rstrouss-at-ix.netcom.com> Subject: Tow Hooks Henry, Joe, Doc Ok, I know I'm not goint to attach any tow hooks to the front cross member. It's got to go on the frame somewhere. I'll take a look at rear end tonight. The rear may be easier. I called my mechanic and he says most cars have them on when they come from the factory as that's how they tie them to the trucks. Then they take them off before they sell them? I looked in the parts book, the service manual, you name it ... no mention of tow hooks. You's think that would be something they'd allow for without any mods to the vehicle? Afterall this is a Jeep we're talking about!!! Later, Ron[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:22:01 -0800
From: kenns <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Tires, Gears, a little paint, and a name
Renshaw, Ken wrote:
>
> >
> >
> Say Ken, what gear/tire combo do you run?
32 1150 15 427 rp.
ok w/ the 488 urll be pulling about 2500rpm with the manual in 4th and
a little higer in 3rd w/ the AT!! i would go for the 488, if u plan to
get an OD AT or MT trany.
hey i got a set of 488's at my apt, never been used, but i got no
install kit, ie
shims bearings gaskets etc!! they made by Genuine gear!
if u go w/ the nv4500 in order to get a 4:1 TC, and u WANT to keep ur
right hand
front d44, u best look for a dodge np241, as that is the only current
case that
accepts the 4:1 AND is right hand front output!!!
BTW what is the price ur gonna pay for the rp that u buy and where
would u buy it
from??
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a
Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can
go, then it's a
Super
Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 14:29:48 -0800
From: kenns <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Tow Hooks
ron, since i 4wl ALOT, i HAD to put 'attaching points' to my
Super in order to pass the inpections of the events that i got to.
i went thru the same slew of probs ur having. the solution
that i found was to BOLT a length of chain to the outboard frame
rail on ea side and at ea end, and then wrap the chain over the top of
the rail, then pass it underneath the front , or rear, xmember. the
chain terminates in a clevis to pass thru tow ropes and
straps!! i got chain that can w/ stand 5klbs!!
Ron Strouss wrote:
>
> Henry, Joe, Doc
>
> Ok, I know I'm not goint to attach any tow hooks to the front cross
> member. It's got to go on the frame somewhere. I'll take a look at
> rear end tonight. The rear may be easier. I called my mechanic and he
> says most cars have them on when they come from the factory as that's
> how they tie them to the trucks. Then they take them off before they
> sell them?
>
> I looked in the parts book, the service manual, you name it ... no
> mention of tow hooks. You's think that would be something they'd allow
> for without any mods to the vehicle? Afterall this is a Jeep we're
> talking about!!!
>
> Later,
> Ron
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a
Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can
go, then it's a
Super
Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 17:20:36 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: Input appreciated... I thought it was supposed to let coolant in if it was low. Please explain. >>>>>> Do you have the proper cap on it? Is the path from the rad to the bottle clear? Do you have the correct cap on the bottle? Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 14:46:20 -0800 From: bks-at-co.intel.com Subject: Re: Tires, Gears, a little paint, and a name Ken W. wrote: > if u go w/ the nv4500 in order to get a 4:1 TC, and u WANT to keep ur > right hand > front d44, u best look for a dodge np241, as that is the only current > case that > accepts the 4:1 AND is right hand front output!!! Also, I _thought_ I remembered seeing a 4:1 gear set for the NP205 gear drive t-case. Was I dreaming? If not, there were both left and right hand versions of that t-case, and wouldn't they take the same gears? Maybe I saw a 3:1 gear set for the NP205, and my foggy brain smeared it into a 4:1... Hmm.... I'm sure I have it in a magazing somewhere, but it would probably take days to find it. Seems that the price was about $1000! Of course, this is all from the same foggy brain! -brad[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:04:40 -0600 From: Ashley Michael <amichael-at-hiwaay.net> Subject: WTB AMC V8 Distributor I am in need of an AMC V8 distributor. The distributor does not need to = be complete. All I need is the body and the shaft of a Delco points = type distributor, but I will buy a complete one if that is all I can = find. I am in the process of making a custom distributor and I do not = want to cut up the distributor that I have. =20 Please E-Mail directly to me. I get the FSJ list in digest mode and I = might miss your post. Thanks, Ash '79 J20--Stock, for now '75 CJ5-Chevy 305 (highly modified), SM420, Dana 300, LS 12 bolt rear,=20 LS Dana 44 front, 36x12.5 Super Swampers[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 14:51:47 -0800 From: "Renshaw, Ken" <krenshaw-at-resumix.com> Subject: RE: Tires, Gears, a little paint, and a name SuperKen says- >ok w/ the 488 urll be pulling about 2500rpm with the manual in 4th and >a little higer in 3rd w/ the AT!! i would go for the 488, if u plan to >get an OD AT or MT trany. 4.88's it is then.... > > hey i got a set of 488's at my apt, never been used, but i got no >install kit, ie >shims bearings gaskets etc!! they made by Genuine gear! Do you have one or two sets? I'm probably interested..... > >if u go w/ the nv4500 in order to get a 4:1 TC, and u WANT to keep ur >right hand >front d44, u best look for a dodge np241, as that is the only current >case that >accepts the 4:1 AND is right hand front output!!! Sounds like the hot ticket! Thanks! I've drooled over some of the newer YJ/TJ's with this combo, and I like it. > >BTW what is the price ur gonna pay for the rp that u buy and where >would u buy it >from?? Well, as a baseline, Four Wheel Parts Wholesalers have Dana/Spicer gearsets for $140, $180 for the "master" install kit. Whether you have one or two sets, if it's less than there price I think we'll talk......the install kit's only about $40. I have a second set of diff carrier bearings that are milled out to slip-fit the carrier, to make shimming easier Thanks, SuperKen! -Ken 1979 Wagoneer 'Babe' 360/ProJection/QT 36" SX's, 4.XX's Dana 44's, ARB's > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 14:58:53 -0800 From: "Renshaw, Ken" <krenshaw-at-resumix.com> Subject: RE: Tires, Gears, a little paint, and a name >---------- >From: bks-at-co.intel.com[SMTP:bks-at-co.intel.com] >Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 1997 2:46 PM >To: Multiple recipients of >Subject: Re: Tires, Gears, a little paint, and a name > >Ken W. wrote: > >> if u go w/ the nv4500 in order to get a 4:1 TC, and u WANT to keep ur >> right hand >> front d44, u best look for a dodge np241, as that is the only current >> case that >> accepts the 4:1 AND is right hand front output!!! > >Also, I _thought_ I remembered seeing a 4:1 gear set for the NP205 gear >drive t-case. Was I dreaming? If not, there were both left and right >hand versions of that t-case, and wouldn't they take the same gears? Dunno.....but a 4:1 NP205 sure is a dream! ~8^} > >Maybe I saw a 3:1 gear set for the NP205, and my foggy brain smeared it >into a 4:1... Hmm.... I'm sure I have it in a magazing somewhere, but >it would probably take days to find it. Seems that the price was about >$1000! Of course, this is all from the same foggy brain! I saw the same ad, probably. I'm sure it wasn't a 4:1, I think it was a 3:1 and they ( Mepco, I think? ) were "still working on it". > >-brad -Ken 1979 Wagoneer 'Babe' 360/ProJection/QT 36" SX's, 4.XX's Dana 44's, ARB's > > > > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:32:30 -0500 From: "Dave Read"<DSREAD-at-hewitt.com> Subject: RE: Gears, Installing in a Dana Diff in reply to krenshaw's memo >I have a second set of diff carrier bearings that are milled out to slip-fit the carrier, to make shimming easier. Hi Ken Are the milled out bearings used just for setup, or permanently? Do you have one of those Dana case spreaders that are used to install and remove the diff? How much does a case spreader go for and where can they be purchased? Any other special tools needed? Preload guage?? etc.? Will the same spreader work on both a Dana 44 and a Dana 60 TIA Dave[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 15:45:10 -0800 From: "Renshaw, Ken" <krenshaw-at-resumix.com> Subject: RE: Gears, Installing in a Dana Diff >---------- >From: Dave Read[SMTP:DSREAD-at-hewitt.com] > >in reply to krenshaw's memo > >>I have a second set of diff carrier bearings that are milled out to >slip-fit the carrier, to >make shimming easier. > >Hi Ken > >Are the milled out bearings used just for setup, or permanently? Just for shimming. Then I press the "new" ones on. > >Do you have one of those Dana case spreaders that are used to install and >remove the diff? You mean a big pry bar? ;-) > >How much does a case spreader go for and where can they be purchased? Any >other special tools needed? Preload guage?? etc.? Dunno about the spreader.... You can either use a pinion depth gauge and a dial indicator for the ring backlash, or as I do, use the same tool for both. It's a magnetic-base dial indicator with a gooseneck, commonly called a limp d**k. Other than that, use the bluing to read the mesh pattern, as the contact pattern tells all. > >Will the same spreader work on both a Dana 44 and a Dana 60 Again, dunno. > >TIA >Dave -Ken 1979 Wagoneer 'Babe' 360/ProJection/QT 36" SX's, 4.XX's Dana 44's, ARB's > > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 19:09:34 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: Desktop Dyno and the 258 Actually, now that I have the numbers listed out here it doesn't look as bad as when you look at the curves plotted on top of one another. Also, the program starts at 2000 rpm (I wish it started at 1000, but the guy who wrote the software is into drag racing) and it looks like that cam makes all of it's torque below 2500 rpm. It looks like it basically gives up the peak horsepower for higher torque and hp below 3000 rpm which is what shorter durations should do. I guess I was wrong about the hp being down across the board, it's actually up below 3000 rpm. Since these engines don't see 4000 rpm very often, especially offroad, maybe this isn't so bad. Personally, I'd rather have a much flatter torque curve and have it extend up towards redline. >>>>>>> This is making more sense now, and I DID talk to Crower today. First, just for grins, can you compare my set up as above, but add 9:1 compression to see how that affects things. Crower responded exactly as I thought saying that the Dyno Programs were a bunch of hooey (sorry Bill). They said that they developed this cam on the dyno years ago, and it is excellent for it's application. (Well, what did you expect them to say, it bites perhaps?) Maybe I should outline what I asked for (which is in keeping with my project parameters) I asked for a cam that boosted low end torque in a largely stock motor and had a good idle quality. The cam we are talking about comes on right before 1K RPM and is good up to 4.5K RPM or thereabouts. I wanted more "grunt" for low speed wheelin' (which is the kind of wheelin' we have in the great NE) or for pullin' stumps, draggin' stuff, snow crawlin' etc. Mr. Beef sports the 4:09 gear set, so he's set up for this very thing. I don't plan on doing much highway driving, and if I do it will be for an emergency in the snow or something and at that point who cares about mileage. I like the numbers much better that are in front of me now... Does the program account for ignition? Anyway, I'm going to go for it and report back to everyone what I find. My goal is to have a solid well mannered motor that is reliable and comes on in the RPM range that we are talking about here. It should be fine. Again, for MY purpose, I'm not going to put the same money in a 258 that could double my results in a big block. Everyone with a stock 258 that is pretty solid can draw thier own conclusions from my results on this project and possibly model thier own improvements after this or avoid my mistakes. I'm casually looking into headers right now, I can always easily add them later which is one of the reasons I'm not that worried about them for now. There are trade offs for headers AFAIC. Also the Smog Nazis can't detect a cam like the one I'm using, which is a consideration for some of you... Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 19:36:05 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Carter BBD 2bbl Could one of you guys that are on the Jeep-L please ask about mods that can be done to the Carter BBD for better performance? I see that in the shop manuals that the Carters came configured differently depending on application. Have any of you heard of set-up changes/jetting/ etc. using OEM part #s? I saw that there is a configuration for "hilly terrain" I may set up like this unless one of you have better info... Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 17:36:22 -0800
From: kenns <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: Tires, Gears, a little paint, and a name
well AA now sells a 3.5/1 tc to replace the tc's in the wranglers
and the d300, little that does for us, but hey..its
only money ;)
bks-at-co.intel.com wrote:
>
> Also, I _thought_ I remembered seeing a 4:1 gear set for the NP205 gear
> drive t-case. Was I dreaming? If not, there were both left and right
> hand versions of that t-case, and wouldn't they take the same gears?
>
> Maybe I saw a 3:1 gear set for the NP205, and my foggy brain smeared it
> into a 4:1... Hmm.... I'm sure I have it in a magazing somewhere, but
> it would probably take days to find it. Seems that the price was about
> $1000! Of course, this is all from the same foggy brain!
>
> -brad
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a
Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can
go, then it's a
Super
Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 17:40:45 -0800
From: kenns <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: 35 now 36sKen
yes i have two sets..FnR d44 488's!!!.
ill sell them to u for $75/set!!
u want me to bring em this weekend??
also i have a dropped pitman arm for the 74 on up FSJ's,
interested??
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a
Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can
go, then it's a
Super
Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 17:53:40 -0800 From: "Renshaw, Ken" <krenshaw-at-resumix.com> Subject: RE: 35 now 36sKen >---------- >From: kenns[SMTP:kenns-at-concentric.net] >Sent: Monday, March 10, 1997 5:40 PM >To: Multiple recipients of >Subject: 35 now 36sKen > >yes i have two sets..FnR d44 488's!!!. Yesss!! > >ill sell them to u for $75/set!! Again, Yessss!! > >u want me to bring em this weekend?? Once again, Yesssss!! > >also i have a dropped pitman arm for the 74 on up FSJ's, >interested?? I've got a 4" Superlift arm on there now, whatya got? > > >-- > Sincerely > > kenneth e. wetherall If a >Wagoneer can go where a > kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can >go, then it's a > Super >Wagoneer. Thanks large! -Ken 1979 Wagoneer 'Babe' 360/ProJection/QT 36" SX's, 4.XX's Dana 44's, ARB's > > > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:49:38, -0500 From: LHQT20A-at-prodigy.com (MR ROBERT A HOWELLS) Subject: WANTED-QT control diaphragm If anyone has a QT control diapragm that they would like to sell or know where I can get one, please let me know. Thanks,Bob[Back to Top]
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 18:13:33 -0800
From: kenns <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: 35 now 36sKen
oh..u got one.
yup mines a SL too :(
Renshaw, Ken wrote:
>
> I've got a 4" Superlift arm on there now, whatya got?
> >
> >
> >--
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a
Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can
go, then it's a
Super
Wagoneer.
[Back to Top]Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 21:08:25 -0600 From: "JenHen" <jenhen-at-neca.com> Subject: Re: Tow Hooks Ron, the rear is a lot easier. The most obvious place for tow hooks is the bottom of the frame rails, somewhere behind the rear axle but in front of the rear crossmember. The obvious disadvantage to this location is that the hooks may hang up your Jeep on rocks or logs. An alternate choice is the outside of the frame rails somewhere behind the rear axle but in front of the rear crossmember. The disadvantage is that the hooks will be slightly above the level of the rear bumper. This means that the tow strap or snatch strap will have to curve up behind the bumper to attach to the hooks. You run the risk of the bumper cutting into the strap at that point. FYI, I placed mine on the sides of the frame rails so as to not allow the hooks to hang the vehicle up. But I might change them to below the frame rails this season to see what happens! Henry ---------- > From: Ron Strouss <rstrouss-at-ix.netcom.com> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Tow Hooks > Date: Tuesday, March 11, 1997 3:56 PM > > Henry, Joe, Doc > > Ok, I know I'm not goint to attach any tow hooks to the front cross > member. It's got to go on the frame somewhere. I'll take a look at > rear end tonight. The rear may be easier. I called my mechanic and he > says most cars have them on when they come from the factory as that's > how they tie them to the trucks. Then they take them off before they > sell them? > > I looked in the parts book, the service manual, you name it ... no > mention of tow hooks. You's think that would be something they'd allow > for without any mods to the vehicle? Afterall this is a Jeep we're > talking about!!! > > Later, > Ron[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 21:29:12 -0500 From: "Randy Stephens" <woodlyn-at-crosslink.net> Subject: Re: Tow Hooks Why couldn't you pull the Torx bolt out of the bottom of the bumper which is bolted into the frame attachment. Install a longer bolt, then drill and install another bolt behind that? ---------- > From: Ron Strouss <rstrouss-at-ix.netcom.com> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Tow Hooks > Date: Tuesday, March 11, 1997 4:56 PM > > Henry, Joe, Doc > > Ok, I know I'm not goint to attach any tow hooks to the front cross > member. It's got to go on the frame somewhere. I'll take a look at > rear end tonight. The rear may be easier. I called my mechanic and he > says most cars have them on when they come from the factory as that's > how they tie them to the trucks. Then they take them off before they > sell them? > > I looked in the parts book, the service manual, you name it ... no > mention of tow hooks. You's think that would be something they'd allow > for without any mods to the vehicle? Afterall this is a Jeep we're > talking about!!! > > Later, > Ron > > > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 22:25:16 -0600 From: "JenHen" <jenhen-at-neca.com> Subject: Re: Tow Hooks Yikes, I'd stay away from that one, Randy. "Doctrine" states that tow hooks should be bolted directly to the frame. I wouldn't trust the strength of even an FSJ bumper bracket when pulling a stuck FSJ or other heavy 4x4 out. Henry ---------- > From: Randy Stephens <woodlyn-at-crosslink.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: Tow Hooks > Date: Tuesday, March 11, 1997 8:29 PM > > Why couldn't you pull the Torx bolt out of the bottom of the bumper which > is bolted into the frame attachment. Install a longer bolt, then drill and > install another bolt behind that? > > ---------- > > From: Ron Strouss <rstrouss-at-ix.netcom.com> > > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > > Subject: Tow Hooks > > Date: Tuesday, March 11, 1997 4:56 PM > > > > Henry, Joe, Doc > > > > Ok, I know I'm not goint to attach any tow hooks to the front cross > > member. It's got to go on the frame somewhere. I'll take a look at > > rear end tonight. The rear may be easier. I called my mechanic and he > > says most cars have them on when they come from the factory as that's > > how they tie them to the trucks. Then they take them off before they > > sell them? > > > > I looked in the parts book, the service manual, you name it ... no > > mention of tow hooks. You's think that would be something they'd allow > > for without any mods to the vehicle? Afterall this is a Jeep we're > > talking about!!! > > > > Later, > > Ron > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------- > > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the > command > > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 22:25:23 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: WANTED-QT control diaphragm If anyone has a QT control diapragm that they would like to sell or know where I can get one, please let me know. Thanks,Bob >>>>>>>>> Bob- I got one. Dealership has 'em for $89. Mail me off the list and we'll talk. Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 20:46:11, -0500 From: LHQT20A-at-prodigy.com (MR ROBERT A HOWELLS) Subject: Part2.Help!! Stuck in Emergency Drive Joe Sego and the guy at the local 4x4 both explained to me that if I put a hand vacuum pump on the QT Control diaphragm on the transfer case that I should be able to get it to switch off and on in that manner if the diaphragm is good. Well it didn't,in fact I got no vacuum pressure at all on either the release and apply side. My next step is change the diapragm. Does anyone have one that they would like to sel(or know where I can get one). I have a diagram of how it connects into the transfer case which indicates that an o ring and 2 retaining rings hold in place. How do you get to the retaining rings? The diaphragm is so close to the trans case that I can't even see them. I figured out why the light was flashing. The plug that goes to the QT unit was loose and therefore causing the flickering. Once I pushed the plug on the light stayed on. If anyone can help I can definately use it. I'm stranded in the driveway until I solve this problem. Thanks, Bob[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 23:32:18 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: Part2.Help!! Stuck in Emergency Drive If anyone can help I can definately use it. I'm stranded in the driveway until I solve this problem. Thanks, Bob >>>>> I have an extra besides the one that I promised Joe Sego Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 11:41:12 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-ai2a.net> Subject: Re: Tow Hooks At 10:25 PM 3/11/97 -0600, you wrote: >Yikes, I'd stay away from that one, Randy. "Doctrine" states that tow hooks >should be bolted directly to the frame. I wouldn't trust the strength of >even an FSJ bumper bracket when pulling a stuck FSJ or other heavy 4x4 out. > >Henry I agree with Henry, I had a slightly bent bumber bracket, straightened it right out with a 16 oz. hammer on the concrete garage floor! Very light weight metal. For a rear attachment point I trust the class II or III receiver hitch thats welded and bolted to both frame rails. C'ya Joe- 79 Chief[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 11:52:48 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-ai2a.net> Subject: Re: Part2.Help!! Stuck in Emergency Drive At 08:46 PM 3/11/97 -0500, you wrote: >Joe Sego and the guy at the local 4x4 both explained to me that if >I put a hand vacuum pump on the >QT Control diaphragm on the transfer case that I should be able to >get it to switch off and on in that Bob, Well I hate to tell you....but...I think you'll have to pull the case to install the diaphram. I just had mine out last fall and replaced the diaphram and front seals. IMHO there is no way of doing it without removing it :-( I need to do the same.... If you do pull the case MAKE CERTAIN you follow the service manual's instructions on making the 5" guide pins. If this step is not followed you WILL ruin your front seals taking it out and/or putting it back in. I wrote a detailed article on doing this, Doc has it on the web site. I'll tell you this, the WORST part of the QT removal is disconnecting the front driveshaft at the QT case. Those four bolts are the world's toughest to get out. VERY tight space. Matter of fact, next time I do this I will only unhook front drive shaft at the front differential and let the shaft come out with the case (thanks to M. Baxter's suggestion!) C'ya Joe- btw, MileMarker still has new diaphrams listed in their catalog, $89 or so. May be worth a call. New would be better.[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 11:57:39 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-ai2a.net> Subject: Re: WANTED-QT control diaphragm At 08:49 PM 3/11/97 -0500, you wrote: >If anyone has a QT control diapragm that they would like to sell or >know where I can get one, >please let me know. Thanks,Bob Bob, I forgot to mention another temporary fix. If you need the truck you can always; Leave it locked and remove the front driveshaft. Then you're in rear-drive only and you won't hurt anything driving it. C'ya Joe- 79 Chief with same problem[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 23:53:23 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: 258 Build-up Teil Sechs OK! The project is starting to come together as I am getting into the reassembly. I forgot to mention last time that before I put the oil pump cover on, I packed the pump with Vaseline. Also on the subject of replacing the pan gasket I should have gone one step further and said that the point is I feel it would be better to get the rubber seal that rides in the bearing cap groove as well as the cork gaskets when doing a pan-drop type repair. Anyway-in the interests of cleanliness I had already cleaned what little sludge and deposits there were in the hiding spots in the block. I have also torqued all lower end connectors/cleaned gasket surfaces/etc. While the block was flipped upside down I cleaned the cam bearings and coated them with assembly lube, coated the cam with the same and installed the cam making sure not to nick it. While upside down you can support the cam while threading it through the block. At this point I prepped the oil pan by scraping the sludge out and running it on the wire wheel in preparation for the coat of AMC blue. I installed the gaskets, evenly torqued the pan down and flipped it over in order to install the lifters. In case it hasn't ocurred to you, don't flip the block over with the new lifters in it-they don't have varnish on them and will probably fall out and you will hate that. I soaked my lifters overnight in break-in lube (there are many schools of thought on lifter prep) , wiped them off and coated them in assembly lube. They slip right in no problem. Hmmm! Excitement is growing as it am lookin' like this thing might just run again. I'm going to stop here so I can get this out, the next post will be on the head prep and valve seals/de-coking (as the Brits say) et al. In the meantine it's on to the dreaded wire wheel to clean up all of the remaining fasteners in order to prepare for the final stages of assembly. That's all for now- Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 97 23:57:55 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: Part2.Help!! Stuck in Emergency Drive Those four bolts are the world's toughest to get out. VERY tight space. >>>>>> That's why choosy bone yard pickers choose the hot knife! New would be better. >>>>>> How true Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 97 00:02:19 EST From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: Re: Part2.Help!! Stuck in Emergency Drive Those four bolts are the world's toughest to get out. VERY tight space. >>>>>> That's why choosy bone yard pickers choose the hot knife! New would be better. >>>>>> How true Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 13:43:44 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-ai2a.net> Subject: FSJ Decal Update Hello FSJers, I still have 75 of the 4x6 FSJ vinyl decals. They still sell for $3 each, this covers postage. A sample can be viewed at http://ai2a.net/~jsego/misc/jeep.shtml All orders that I've received have been mailed. You should have your's by Saturday. Frank and Sune, you may have to wait on the mail system a bit longer :-) As soon as the demand for these is over we'll start on the IFSJA decals if there is an interest. One thing the next generation of decals should have is the URL of the web site. Yeah Doc, you'll have your name is vinyl! C'ya Joe 79 Chief[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 22:14:23 -0800 From: "Allan Weidenheimer" <allanw-at-pacific.telebyte.com> Subject: Custom bolt pattern wheels, M715 parts Thanks Ken! It's Stockton Wheel, in (where else?) Stockton Ca. 800-395-wheel (seems to be too many letters but it works) A friend wants 16" tubeless rims with a 47 Dodge 6 bolt pattern to replace his split rims. They were familiar and even knew of some problems to make this conversion work. $90 each. Seemed like a good outfit. Landon, concerning the M715 bellhousing on the FSJ want list, have you checked the military vehicle preservation association page at www.mvpa.org? They've got lots of links, it appears there is even a military vehicle mail list. Maybe someplace in there there is a spot to post what you are looking for? Just a thought... Allan Weidenheimer 84 GW[Back to Top]
Date: 12 Mar 97 02:36:20 EST From: Edwin Pedersen <102551.2631-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Canadian Reg. Cord. for Canada Hey Docster ! Sure, sign me up for the Chief Area Aggravator, or whatever the heck the name is that you came up with. I'll do Western Canada, for all 2 of us members :) I might even have Ol' White in marathon shape by then, at least I hope I will (g) Eddie in Vancouver B.C. Canada (where we are getting a touch of snow) '79 Cherokee Wide Track QT AT I6 169,400 miles Dana 44's 3.54 gears[Back to Top]
Date: 12 Mar 97 02:36:15 EST From: Edwin Pedersen <102551.2631-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: IFSJ Business Cards Doc, Looks good to me. What kind of costs are we looking for the members to purchas? For 10, for 20, etc.. Eddie in Vancouver[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 14:01:37 +0200 (WET) From: <ik3274-at-tutech.fi> Subject: Re: 35 now 36sKen On Mon, 10 Mar 1997, kenns wrote: > > also i have a dropped pitman arm for the 74 on up FSJ's, > interested?? How much do you want for it to be posted to Finland? ismo from warm and sunny Finland (no snow for two weeks now)[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 07:19:11 -0600 From: "JenHen" <jenhen-at-neca.com> Subject: Re: Tow Hooks Right. I should have mentioned that a proper receiver hitch would be acceptable too. Of course, Since I don't have one, that completely slipped my mind! Henry ---------- > From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-ai2a.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: Tow Hooks > Date: Wednesday, March 12, 1997 10:41 AM > > At 10:25 PM 3/11/97 -0600, you wrote: > >Yikes, I'd stay away from that one, Randy. "Doctrine" states that tow hooks > >should be bolted directly to the frame. I wouldn't trust the strength of > >even an FSJ bumper bracket when pulling a stuck FSJ or other heavy 4x4 out. > > > >Henry > > I agree with Henry, I had a slightly bent bumber bracket, > straightened it right out with a 16 oz. hammer on the concrete > garage floor! Very light weight metal. > > For a rear attachment point I trust the class II or III > receiver hitch thats welded and bolted to both frame rails. > > C'ya > Joe- > 79 Chief[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:30:08 -0700 From: swhitney-at-presto.GIS.Pima.GOV. (Steve Whitney) Subject: Re: Part2.Help!! Stuck in Emergency Drive You only need to remove the back cover of the QT case to replace the vacuum diaphram. This is much easier than removing the entire case, although it is STILL a pain in the butt! If anyone needs info on doing this, I have docs from when I put in a Mile Marker part-time conversion kit in my '78 Wag. c-ya, Whit. Steve Whitney, '78 Wag Tucson, AZ swhitney-at-gis.pima.gov > Bob, > Well I hate to tell you....but...I think you'll have to pull the > case to install the diaphram. I just had mine out last fall and > replaced the diaphram and front seals. IMHO there is no way of > doing it without removing it :-( I need to do the same.... >[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:45:10 -0700 From: swhitney-at-presto.GIS.Pima.GOV. (Steve Whitney) Subject: Ken's pitman arm Ken, If the pitman arm to ismo doesn't work out, I'd be interested in it. c-ya, Whit. Steve Whitney, '78 Wag Tucson, AZ swhitney-at-gis.pima.gov[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 97 08:04:14 -0800 From: bks-at-co.intel.com Subject: Re: Tires, Gears, a little paint, and a name Ken wrote: > well AA now sells a 3.5/1 tc to replace the tc's in the wranglers > and the d300, little that does for us, but hey..its > only money ;) Hmm... 3.5 would be a pretty darn good low range. Lets see, with a 6.5:1 first and 4.10 R&Ps, thats a crawl ratio of 93:1! (But then I don't have a 6.5:1 first or 4.10:1 R&Ps either... yet anyway... only money...) As long as I am dreamin, I was staring at the diagram for an NP219 the other day, and thougt to myself wouldn't it be neat if you could take out the full time diff and replace it with a second (custom) reduction unit, converting it to a part time unit with both a 2.61 low range and a 6.81 low range (2.61*2.61)! If only someone made a kit.... -dreamin brad[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 08:15:04 -0800 From: Thomas Anhalt <tanhalt-at-earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Desktop Dyno and the 258 M_B_FEICK wrote: > This is making more sense now, and I DID talk to Crower today. First, > just for grins, can you compare my set up as above, but add 9:1 compression to > see how that affects things. > I'll run it with the 9:1 tonight. If I remember correctly, raising compression tends to uniformly raise the torque and horsepower throughout the rpm range. I'll post the results tonight. How did they explain the 280 duration thing? Was that a typo? > Crower responded exactly as I thought saying that the Dyno Programs > were a bunch of hooey (sorry Bill). They said that they developed this cam on > the dyno years ago, and it is excellent for it's application. (Well, what did > you expect them to say, it bites perhaps?) Maybe I should outline what I > asked for (which is in keeping with my project parameters) > Sounds like they have yet to understand the power of computer modelling ;) I agree that the simplified dyno program won't be 100% accurate on absolute results (although they DO claim it is up to 95% accurate), but it's real benefit is in judging the relative effects of changes, especially of the camshaft timing. > I asked for a cam that boosted low end torque in a largely stock motor > and had a good idle quality. The cam we are talking about comes on right > before 1K RPM and is good up to 4.5K RPM or thereabouts. I wanted more > "grunt" for low speed wheelin' (which is the kind of wheelin' we have in the > great NE) or for pullin' stumps, draggin' stuff, snow crawlin' etc. > Mr. Beef sports the 4:09 gear set, so he's set up for this very thing. I With the short durations on that cam, your idle should be butter smooth and have tons of vacuum. Do you have an auto or stick transmission? With an auto I don't think you'll see the below 1000 rpm boost. Don't those 4.09 gears cause the rpms to be up compared to if you had a lower ratio? The numbers from that cam show a really good boost in torque over the stock cam up to 3000 rpm. The thing I didn't like about the curve is that it was constantly decreasing through that range (and pretty steeply, too) so the more it revs, the less it pulls. Like I said before, I like a flat (but high) torque curve. > > Everyone with a stock 258 that is pretty solid can draw thier own > conclusions from my results on this project and possibly model thier own > improvements after this or avoid my mistakes. I'm casually looking into > headers right now, I can always easily add them later which is one of the > reasons I'm not that worried about them for now. There are trade offs for > headers AFAIC. Also the Smog Nazis can't detect a cam like the one I'm using, > which is a consideration for some of you... > Brad Feick After I do the run with 9:1 compression, I'll also do runs with headers for both the 8:1 and the 9:1. Thanks for sharing this info, Brad. I'm sure we'll all be interested in hearing about your field testing! Take it easy. Tom Anhalt '81 Cherokee Laredo[Back to Top]
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