Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 23:38:29 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: reply from Luxembourg
you're just lucky you caught me on line. I'm working as a Sys
Admin now and not on the internet except for a few hours in the
evening...
it's late, better get to bed too...
The 88 deal sounds superb, 4K cash with your trade-in and you get a
rig with 20,000 miles on it???? 16,000 is a lot of money, but
20,000 miles is INCREDIBLE. I know of no difference off-hand
between the 88 and the 90. There is something about quality issues
in later models, so the 88 may be better... Gas mileage is bad for
all years... Oh, which engine? The 360?
You can get a decent GW here for less than $10K... But, I've never
heard of one with 20,000 miles on it... Wow!
ttyl,
john
> Hi again,
>
> god you're fast as lightning.
>
> The 1988 is 16.000=A4. With the trade-in I chip in 4.000=A4. The 1990 is=
14.000 =A4, but I'd have to sell the camaro first, which might take a whi=
le. I was in Brussels this past weekend a I saw a 1988 JGW,>
> I'll go see the 1988 JGW again this Friday and then I'll make the decisi=
on.
> I was just wondering whether the 1988 and 1990 models were much differen=
t. From looking at both I didn't really see anything! Exterior and interio=
r look the same. Gas mileage must be just as bad.
>
> The 1988 is just like new the leather is hardly broken in. The back seat=
s were probably never used. No rust, no ding, no chips, nothing at all. I'=
m beginning to wonder if this isn't too good to be tr>
>
> Thanks again John. I'll keep you posted. Patrick
>
********************************************************
john-at- http://www.
ORC-FSJ =3D http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
Snohomish, WA USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold
JEEPS:(Wagoneer Limited 81 SJ & 88 xj)
no Jesus =3D no peace <-> know Jesus =3D know peace
**********************************************************
[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 23:42:33 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: FSJ-List-Digest - Number 295
> Subject: Re: Owners manuals
>
> On May 4, 1:10am, chrissy saltsgaver wrote:
> > Subject: Owners manuals
> > While at the Studebaker swap meet, I found a vendor who owns a '78 J10
> > Honcho. He also has FSJ owners manuals for the following years: '80,
> 81,
> > 82, 83, & '84. They sell for $8.00 each (I bought one for my new
> '83).
> > >
> > Let me know if anyones interested & I'll look up his number & address.
> >> > Mike Saltsgaver.
>
You have access to an 81 FSJ manual for $8.00 ??? Please, get one,
I'm interested... I paid way too much for a bad photocopy from Irv
Bischko or whatever his name is...
later,
john
********************************************************
john-at- http://www.
ORC-FSJ = http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
Snohomish, WA USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold
JEEPS:(Wagoneer Limited 81 SJ & 88 xj)
no Jesus = no peace <-> know Jesus = know peace
**********************************************************
[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 23:45:34 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: service/owners manuals...
> You're not confusing 'owners' manual with 'service' manual are ya
Jeff :)
> Regards,
> -jj
Joe,
he ain't the only one... <grin>...
Cancel that request please... I've already got the owner's manual.
If you don't have one, it IS worth $8 though... good info on the
xfr cases, towing, etc. Although it is wrong in 81 on what fluid to
put in the NP219... :-)
ttyl,
john
********************************************************
john-at- http://www.
ORC-FSJ = http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
Snohomish, WA USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold
JEEPS:(Wagoneer Limited 81 SJ & 88 xj)
no Jesus = no peace <-> know Jesus = know peace
**********************************************************
[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 23:51:03 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: gas tank...
> Subject: Re: Gas tank removal.
> On Sun, 4 May 1997, Sc0 wrote:
> > Can I grind the top of the bolts off from the bed, without a risk of fire
> > or Explosion???
> There shouldn't be much risk of explosion but just to be sure I'd fill the
> tank up and drain it after you are done. Gasoline does not burn The fumes
> do... if the tank is full of gas there is no room for fumes.
There still might be vapors outside of the tank though. If you can
keep the air moving and have plenty of ventilation, you should be ok.
You might consider doing this outside and having a garden hose
running water over the tank. I've got a friend that wears a very,
very long beard, and dark glasses. Sure he likes ZZ top, but he
also is covering up scars that cover most of his face, neck and chest
from serious burns when a gas tank exploded that he was removing from
a Camaro...
This is another reason I like Diesels so much...
later,
john
********************************************************
john-at- http://www.
ORC-FSJ = http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
Snohomish, WA USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold
JEEPS:(Wagoneer Limited 81 SJ & 88 xj)
no Jesus = no peace <-> know Jesus = know peace
**********************************************************
[Back to Top]Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 23:55:35 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: hot blooded FSJ???
wow. I just ran Old Blue similar speeds, with trailer in tow and
a/c on, even in hilly country, never saw the temp guage get that
high. Even when I had the old radiator that leaked and stuff...
I've never had an overheating problem with an FSJ... Even when
sitting idling for a long time... (wish I could say the same for my
4.0L...)
Is your Tstat working ok? Is your radiator plugged? Is your timing
way off? Is it really that hot or is your temp guage loco?
How many rows does your radiator have?
later,
john
> From: dave <dgreenwe-at-computek.net>
> Subject: normal operating temp
>
> Took my 87 Wag on the road this last weekend and I noticed that when
> cruising at 70-75 on th highway with the A/C running that my temp was
> inching above the 220 degrees. I know we discussed before, was it ever
> decided what the normal operating temp is for a 360. I just got the
> motor rebuilt in August, I'd hate to have a melt down so soon.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
********************************************************
john-at- http://www.
ORC-FSJ = http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
Snohomish, WA USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold
JEEPS:(Wagoneer Limited 81 SJ & 88 xj)
no Jesus = no peace <-> know Jesus = know peace
**********************************************************
[Back to Top]Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:48:45 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: Gas mileage question Martin, Ole Bessy was getting 11.0 MPG with the 2-barrel. That was with 7 degrees BTDC. Haven't checked mileage with the 4-barrel yet but I'm sure the mileage will have gone down once she's back on the road due to the lower (3.73 versus the original 3.31) gears I've just installed. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: M & J <trapper-at-primenet.com> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Gas mileage question > Date: Monday, May 05, 1997 9:48 PM > > I've got a 1970 SJ w/350 c.i. and a TH400. The tranny was overhauled last > month with an overhaul kit from JEGS and it works fine. A transcat shift > kit was installed at the time of the overhaul and it now makes "firmer" > shifts. I kinda think that the shifts are happening about a couple hundred > RPM's higher than before the shift kit was installed, but I really can't > verify that. Anyways, this is just all background info for the real > question, and that is . . . why am I only getting 10.5 - 11.0 MPG now when > I was getting 12.5-14.0 prior to the tranny overhaul? The engine is tuned > properly (methinks - 5 deg BTDC) and the air/fuel mix is good to go. The > beast runs like a top, but I just find it hard to believe that the new > tranny kit from JEGS has caused me to lose MPG, is this possible? What > kind of MPG are you guys getting with the older FSJ's? > > Martin Schaefbauer, Yuma Arizona, '70 SJ 350 TH400 "Dusty"[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:58:33 -0500
From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com>
Subject: Re: reply from Luxembourg
Hmmm...$16 K is a lot of money. How would that compare to getting a clean
and rust-free GWag with, say, 120 K or so on it for $6 K, and then having
the engine and transmission rebuilt if necessary somewhere down the line?
It would take a lot of work to make up the additional $10 K. Hate to say
it, but for $16 K I'd rather get a '95 or '96 Cherokee, or maybe a '93 or
'94 Grand Cherokee.
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
Henry Padilla
'68 Jeep Wagoneer
Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser
jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com
----------
From: john meister <john-at->
To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com>
Subject: Re: reply from Luxembourg
Date: Monday, May 05, 1997 6:38 PM
you're just lucky you caught me on line. I'm working as a Sys
Admin now and not on the internet except for a few hours in the
evening...
it's late, better get to bed too...
The 88 deal sounds superb, 4K cash with your trade-in and you get a
rig with 20,000 miles on it???? 16,000 is a lot of money, but
20,000 miles is INCREDIBLE. I know of no difference off-hand
between the 88 and the 90. There is something about quality issues
in later models, so the 88 may be better... Gas mileage is bad for
all years... Oh, which engine? The 360?
You can get a decent GW here for less than $10K... But, I've never
heard of one with 20,000 miles on it... Wow!
ttyl,
john
> Hi again,
>
> god you're fast as lightning.
>
> The 1988 is 16.000=A4. With the trade-in I chip in 4.000=A4. The 1990 i=
s
14.000 =A4, but I'd have to sell the camaro first, which might take a whi=
le.
I was in Brussels this past weekend a I saw a 1988 JGW,>
> I'll go see the 1988 JGW again this Friday and then I'll make the
decision.
> I was just wondering whether the 1988 and 1990 models were much
different. From looking at both I didn't really see anything! Exterior an=
d
interior look the same. Gas mileage must be just as bad.
>
> The 1988 is just like new the leather is hardly broken in. The back sea=
ts
were probably never used. No rust, no ding, no chips, nothing at all. I'm
beginning to wonder if this isn't too good to be tr>
>
> Thanks again John. I'll keep you posted. Patrick
>
********************************************************
john-at- http://www.
ORC-FSJ =3D http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj
Snohomish, WA USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold
JEEPS:(Wagoneer Limited 81 SJ & 88 xj)
no Jesus =3D no peace <-> know Jesus =3D know peace
**********************************************************
[Back to Top]Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:02:36 -0400 (EDT) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: Re: Tranny questions In a message dated 97-05-05 17:03:26 EDT, you write: > > If you are going back with a Chry tranny I'd go with the 9?? (900 series I > don't remember the exact #) It is supposed to be a better tranny. > > Actually, the 909, and 904 ( also called TF6) are WEAKER than the 727 ( also called the TF8) ( same gear ratios though) the 999 is a pretty strong trans, with a little lower first gear than the other TF series but MUCH harder to find parts for than the 727.. YOUR BEST BET, if sticking with a 3 speed auto, is the TF727!! I pulled mine out and had it rebuilt for $137 ( converter $ 90 more) Matt[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:10:53 -0400 From: PChuck <peterson-at-qualab.enet.qntm.com> Subject: FSJ For Sale For anyone in the New England Area: I spotted a nice looking Wagoneer for sale on the side of the road. Northboro Ma. Rte. 20 west of the center of town. If I had $0.02 to rub together I'd stop and get it me self! Chuck[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:09:29 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: Regional Coordinators Stephen, if you'd like me to help out by being the contact person for CT, I could do it. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: yinadral-at-juno.com > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: Regional Coordinators > Date: Monday, May 05, 1997 11:12 AM > > Sounds like an inspired idea to me! > > > On Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:47:11 -0400 "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" > <fariello-at-inspace.net> writes: > > > > What do y'all think of each state (or country, in the case of > >our European > >brethren) having a, say, "contact person" or something like that, > >under the > >RC? Might make things a little easier on the RCs as we get bigger, > >also > >give prospective members someone closer to them to contact. > >Especially > >regarding get-togethers, etc. This I think would be especially useful > >in > >the larger regions. Whadday'all think? > > > > | > > | > > | | > > | ============= | > > 0_| / \ |_o > > |_|_____----+-----____|_| > > |====|=====|=====|====| > > ||____|_____|_____|____|| > > \_____|___|DOC|___|_____/ > > |\/\/|--------\_/--|\/\/| > > ______|\/\/|_____________|\/\/|______ > > > > Home of the "Bottomless Transfer Case" > > _____________________________________ > > > > email: fariello-at-inspace.net > > http://www.inspace.net/~fariello/fsj > > _____________________________________[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 08:21:40 -0500 From: "Jeff Gunn" <jgunn-at-hou.varco.com> Subject: Re: wheeler-dealer tactics On May 5, 8:08pm, Moake Brian wrote: > Subject: Re: wheeler-dealer tactics > > > > let him keep it, besides I found someone here that has what I need for > > > a really good price. > >-- End of excerpt from Moake Brian The details on what you found at the right price. I figured you meant another Wagoneer but in better shape or at a better price. Jeff[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:42:03 -0400 From: "Steven A. Kaiser" <Steven_Kaiser-at-compuserve.com> Subject: Puffing smoke >Steve, my GW does the same thing (after running a while, it takes several >spins of the starter & a puff of smoke to restart). I've always attributed >to a poor carburator & 168,000 miles. I don't think mine isn't a heat >soak/boil over situation, altho the smoke does leave the impression of valve >guide wear. >If there a cure (which entails little effort that is :)) I'd like to know >about it too. >Mike Saltsgaver. Mike, I'm working on it!! Check your carb next time you have the engine hot. With the engine off, pull off the air cleaner and look down the carb bores. If you smell gas very strong, hear a boiling or hissing and see gas you have the same problem I do. I've wired my heat riser open and will see if that helps. Steve[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:42:07 -0400 From: "Steven A. Kaiser" <Steven_Kaiser-at-compuserve.com> Subject: RE: Carb/manifold swap success!! > Your smoke is a bit of a mystery. It does not fit anything I have ever >heard of. Maybe you have a bad valve seat that only leaks when hot and >doesn't have pressure on it? Just a guess. Let me know if you figure it >out. > Jeff Herbst > Jeff, I'm convinced it has to do with my carb over heat problem, at least in part. It's possible I can't tell the difference between black and blue! Did you use a heat spacer between your carb and manifold?? Steve[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:42:10 -0400 From: "Steven A. Kaiser" <Steven_Kaiser-at-compuserve.com> Subject: Steven K!! >hmmm, well steve, i got good news and baaaad news. >first the good news, it dont look like a gas prob, at >least not from what ur telling me. next, the bad news. blue >smoke is an indication that ur burning OIL, black smoke would >be an indication of tooo much gas burning?? >ur thoughts?? Well I definitly have a carb flooding problem due to overheating. I may also have an oil problem. I'll have to solve the carb over heat first, then worry about oil burning. Steve[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 09:42:14 -0400 From: "Steven A. Kaiser" <Steven_Kaiser-at-compuserve.com> Subject: Re: Carb/manifold swap success!! >Do you have any kind of spacer or heat shield between the carb and the >manifold? I put a thin phenolic spacer between my carb and manifold and >it seemed to help alot. They are available at most speed shops. >Jeff Jeff, Thanks for the input. I ordered a heat spacer from Edelbrock. Should be here in about a week. I'll keep ya posted. Steve[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 10:11:50 EDT From: yinadral-at-juno.com Subject: Re: Regional Coordinators Sounds great Henry. I could use all the help I can get. It does seem to me that I got the Coordinator job by default. I could of sworn we were going to vote on this (scratching his head). Stephen Levin Yinadral-at-Juno.com On Tue, 6 May 1997 09:09:29 -0500 "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> writes: >Stephen, if you'd like me to help out by being the contact person for >CT, I >could do it. > >======================================= >Henry Padilla >'68 Jeep Wagoneer >Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser >jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com > >---------- >> From: yinadral-at-juno.com >> To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> >> Subject: Re: Regional Coordinators >> Date: Monday, May 05, 1997 11:12 AM >> >> Sounds like an inspired idea to me! >> >> >> On Wed, 30 Apr 1997 20:47:11 -0400 "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" >> <fariello-at-inspace.net> writes: >> > >> > What do y'all think of each state (or country, in the case >of >> >our European >> >brethren) having a, say, "contact person" or something like that, >> >under the >> >RC? Might make things a little easier on the RCs as we get bigger, > >> >also >> >give prospective members someone closer to them to contact. >> >Especially >> >regarding get-togethers, etc. This I think would be especially >useful >> >in >> >the larger regions. Whadday'all think? >> > >> > | >> > | >> > | | >> > | ============= | >> > 0_| / \ |_o >> > |_|_____----+-----____|_| >> > |====|=====|=====|====| >> > ||____|_____|_____|____|| >> > \_____|___|DOC|___|_____/ >> > |\/\/|--------\_/--|\/\/| >> > ______|\/\/|_____________|\/\/|______ >> > >> > Home of the "Bottomless Transfer Case" >> > _____________________________________ >> > >> > email: fariello-at-inspace.net >> > http://www.inspace.net/~fariello/fsj >> > _____________________________________ > > > > >--------------------------------------------------- >To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the >command >"unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 07:44:22 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: Tranny on the way out! At 12:13 05-05-97 -0500, you wrote: >Well, > >The 3-speed, standard transmition in my 74" cherokee started making >noise over the weekend. I pulled the drain plug to check the fluid >level and it was full. However, the fluid was not in good shape. It >looked like charcoal, metal flake paint. <snip> >Paul Boe >74" Cherokee, (Daily driver) Paul, sounds like a good time to swap in a 4-spd :) Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 07:58:39 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: Gas tank removal. >Drain or siphon all gas out of the tank, then fill it with water. The >water will displace the gas vapor. > Sorry to contradict you David but *DO NOT DO THIS*!!!!!!!!!!!!! You will not get water to fill 100% of the tank, all you'll do is force the vapors into a pocket. Should you ignite that pocket...your tank probs are over! The only way I've ever found to safely weld/grind on a tank is to have it out of the truck, flushed and aired out for a few days. Then with the sending unit removed, hook the filler to the exhaust of a running vehicle, let run for awhile and keep the exhaust flowing while working on the tank. Actually I don't even do that anymore. I take the tank to the pros. I'm getting older and wiser (ok, maybe more paranoid :) Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 08:14:18 -0700 From: Gordon McKenzie <gordmck-at-direct.ca> Subject: Re: tranny troubles... john meister wrote: > I hear ya buddy... Old Blue is fixing to do the same thing... Going > up hill he'll shudder like crazy... My guess is it's the torque > converter on mine, but either way, he ain't long for this world. > > The options aren't real good if you want to keep the 360 and the > NP219. Advance adapter will get you coming and going... You'd > need an AMC to chevy adapter for a 700r4 or an AMC 360 to AMC 4.0L > (???) adapter to the Aisin Warner 4spdat, AND then you'll need about > a $450 adapter to mate the 700r4 to the NP219. If you get the > AW4spd, then you only have to worry about the spline count and change > the tranny shaft OR change the gear in the NP219. > Yeah, I've figured that even picking up 5 mpg (which is unlikely) it would take a long time to recover the cost. > My plan is to procrastinate as long as humanly possible and still be > able to drive Old Blue, (see last posted question... :-) I need my truck too much. Anyway, trucks in the shop and the guy figures it is just the front bushing (as someone else suggested). The guy also wants to put in an older non-locking torque converter as he says it is a lower stall speed and will make a big difference for towing (I have a 19' trailer). Others have suggested the same thing. BTW, this guy was recommended to me by two dealerships. Nice to call Chrysler and have them tell me I can get it done cheaper elsewhere and then suggest someone. Gord (driving the wifes Escort)[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 08:23:58 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: Aux tanks At 21:31 05-05-97 EDT, you wrote: > I had 2 tanks built for a boat (250 gal each)and >the going rate was about $3/gal for steel and $10/gal for aluminum. >>>>>>> >That sounds great, but what would one use to attach the tank to the bed? > >Brad Feick > Brad the shop should be able to weld you up some straps/hold downs out of scrap iron. I'd secure the tank to the frame not to the bed so the tank and frame aren't moving independently on bad roads. Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 12:23:47 -0400 From: "David P. Dusenbury" <dp-at-interpath.com> Subject: Re: State Reps Jack Jacques wrote: > > Folks, > I'll raise my hand for North Carolina > Jack I second that nomination, close nominations, call a vote, and vote "yes". Where in NC are you? I'm down in Sanford (S of Raleigh). DP...[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 11:27:18 -0500 From: "Dave Read"<DSREAD-at-hewitt.com> Subject: Re: Gas tank removal. Good Point! I've only tried this once, on a tractor tank that was out of the tractor. It had some pinholes that I wanted to solder up. I filled and drained it with water several times to rinse, then filled it as full as I could. Unfortunately I was only using a propane torch and the water conducted the heat away. I eventually got it hot enough for the solder to flow, but it took awhile. Your best bet might be a good 6 point socket and a long breaker bar. Try wedging another socket/breaker bar or wrench on the other end of the bolt to keep it from turning. If nothing else this combination might snap the bolt. Another possibility is a nut spliter. I think you said there was a sleeve rusted to the bolt? Do you have room to for Vice grips to break lose/crush the sleeve, and then maybe a big pry bar to split the seam in the sleeve? You might be able to cut off the bolt head or cut through the bolt with a cold chisel and hammer. Enough room for a hacksaw? The bolts go through the bed right? How about center-punching the heads and drilling them out? There was a good article in This Old House Magizine several months back about removing underground home fuel oil tanks. The contractor put dry ice in the tank to displace the oxygen. They stressed that this was not a do it your self project. And fuel oil is nowhere near as volitile as gasoline. Depending on how many sparks and how much heat you create you may still want to drain and fill several times with water. Stuff the filler neck with a wet rag, and put the cap back on. Joe has an excellent point, you will most likely have an air pocket no matter what you do. At least this way you'll only have a small explosion. : ) Gasoline is scary stuff. I'd multiple rinse and fill the tank as best I could and then create as few sparks as possible. Good Luck Dave _________________________________________________ *in reply to joes's memo of 05/06/97 10:58:39 AM To: fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com cc: From: joes-at-olympus.net Date: 05/06/97 07:58:39 AM MST Subject: Re: Gas tank removal. >Drain or siphon all gas out of the tank, then fill it with water. The >water will displace the gas vapor. > Sorry to contradict you David but *DO NOT DO THIS*!!!!!!!!!!!!! You will not get water to fill 100% of the tank, all you'll do is force the vapors into a pocket. Should you ignite that pocket...your tank probs are over! The only way I've ever found to safely weld/grind on a tank is to have it out of the truck, flushed and aired out for a few days. Then with the sending unit removed, hook the filler to the exhaust of a running vehicle, let run for awhile and keep the exhaust flowing while working on the tank. Actually I don't even do that anymore. I take the tank to the pros. I'm getting older and wiser (ok, maybe more paranoid :) Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 12:38:32 -0400 (EDT) From: Mark Wallace <redgator-at-bu.edu> Subject: Leaking 727/360 sticker/Stuck Hood I'll cover the stuck hood first, because I don't like to see body damage on Jeeps if it can be avoided. (I got a big dent in my hood because my mom drove over it while it was off the Jeep) Mine got stuck and I just shoved a CB antenna in through the grille to get it open. I hit the catch...A long screwdriver would have been much better. No damage whatsoever. If there are four barrel 360 stickers in good condition and they wouldn't look horribly out of date on an 81 I'd be interested. Leaking 727, broken 727, three burned up 727s in a year, difficult to find parts for 727...The options as I see them are modern overdrive tranny with adaptors (slush) Th 400 with transfer case adaptor (I really like my NP 219) or the Four speed (or five speed if you got some bucks) route. My conclusion is that if I get a decent rebuild in my 727 it should stick together a lot better than it did all the times that the clowns at AAMCO did it. Go to a tranny shop with a good reputation...BBB, hot rod buddies...anyone, but don't go to AAMCO. Mine was leaking, but still functional probably the day I put my 360 back between the fenders. it wasn't leaking bad and I went wheeling in Colorado and I started driving across the country...it started getting really bad right after I crossed the Mississippi river and on one day I only made sixty miles. After a lot of cussing and overfilling it I managed to get the thing driving and not leaking all over the exhaust...it had started having some trouble shifting gears when it was cold...I coaxed it into third right outside of Indy and decided not to chance it getting stuck in second or first and drove to Massachussetts in one sitting...I had a $1 bet that the Wagoneer would cross the Mass state line under it's own power...I won. I had the tranny rebuilt by AAMCO...and went down to Maryland a feww weeks later with my at the time crazy insane girlfiend. It had first and second, but it still had to be coaxed into third. AAMCO claimed that changing shift characteristics were normal. Anyway third eventually settled in better just as second was going away. Second would get a partial engagement...you'd have to coax it from first to third as easily as possible and it burned up second gear's clutches. Back to AAMCO under the Warrantee. They accused me of abusing it (I think they thought that they could take advantage of a kid...I was 20 at the time...I used to work construction with ex-cons and jailbirds of all types so they were out of luck) Anyway they rebuilt the thing again....I had to bring it back about four times the following week because it was leaking...there was a lot of arguing and a lot of cussing...Actually I was impeccably polite, and they did the cussing...Anyway that tranny shifted more or less normally, but the endplay was all wrong and it took out my crank. I'm gonna rebuild it myself this time...Foul play on AAMCO's part wouldn't surprise me, but accusations that I can't support (or even that I can support when I take it apart) aren't gonna give me a working transmission and a new crank. You guys who are leaking I'd do something about it soon. As for John I'd be looking for your six banger right now and I'd probably have the thing apart as soon as you have all the big parts ready to go. Anyway I'm done with school for the year...gonna be around for a little while longer to do this electric car race...I'll most likely be the transporter driver, but I'll also be doing a fair amount of the test driving. Later MArk[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 13:18:48 -0400 (EDT) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: I NEED AN AXLE SHAFT FAST! My passenger side rear axle shaft is screwed, the bearing spun and chewed it up, Ive searched most of the local yards to no avail, so If anybody out there has an AMC 20 WIDETRACK passenger side axle shaft they would like to part with I NEED IT![Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 14:26:26 -0400 (EDT) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: Re: I NEED AN AXLE SHAFT FAST! In a message dated 97-05-06 13:37:31 EDT, you write: > > My passenger side rear axle shaft is screwed, the bearing spun and chewed it > up, Ive searched most of the local yards to no avail, so If anybody out > there > has an > AMC 20 WIDETRACK passenger side axle shaft they would like to part with I > NEED IT! > Any body have info on possibly sleeving the shaft? also i have come to learn that a J truck axle will also work.... local JEEP dealorship wants 3 arms and 14 legs for a shaft....[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 13:49:46 -0500 From: "Dave Read"<DSREAD-at-hewitt.com> Subject: Re: Gas tank removal. Be careful with this method also. Depending on the state of tune of the running vehicle this could cause some excitement. Carbon Monoxide is flamable and if the running vehicle is too rich there would be some unburned hydrocarbons. The reduction in Oxygen would help. If it passes the emissions test with flying colors then it might be OK. >The only way I've ever found to safely weld/grind on a tank is to have it out of the truck, flushed and aired out for a few days. Then with the sending unit removed, hook the filler to the exhaust of a running vehicle, let run for awhile and keep the exhaust flowing while working on the tank. >Actually I don't even do that anymore. I take the tank to the pros. I'm getting older and wiser (ok, maybe more paranoid :)[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 13:54:51 -0500 From: Paul Boe <boe-at-arcpv.com> Subject: Re: Tranny on the way out! Joe Schaefer wrote: > > At 12:13 05-05-97 -0500, you wrote: > >Well, > > > >The 3-speed, standard transmition in my 74" cherokee started making > >noise over the weekend. I pulled the drain plug to check the fluid > >level and it was full. However, the fluid was not in good shape. It > >looked like charcoal, metal flake paint. > <snip> > >Paul Boe > >74" Cherokee, (Daily driver) > > Paul, sounds like a good time to swap in a 4-spd :) > > Regards, > -jj > > --------------------------------------------------- What 4-speed can be swapped straight across? How much are we talking? and What advantages would a 4-speed have over a 3-speed? Sounds good to me! :-) Paul Boe[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 97 12:08:47 PDT From: jaamize <jaamize-at-nwlink.com> Subject: Re: Puffing smoke my GW has also been doing this. I have also noticed that it surges and = then drastically slows alot when driving is this also a symptom you folks= have had, along with the others you have shown? (i am assuming the puff = of smoke you are talking about is coming from the tail pipe not under the= hood) Alisa >Steve, my GW does the same thing (after running a while, it takes severa= l >spins of the starter & a puff of smoke to restart). I've always >attributed >to a poor carburator & 168,000 miles. I don't think mine isn't a heat >soak/boil over situation, altho the smoke does leave the impression of valve >guide wear. >If there a cure (which entails little effort that is :)) I'd like to kno= w >about it too. >Mike Saltsgaver. Mike,[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 10:06:40 -0400
From: "Dennis M. \"Doc\" Fariello" <fariello-at-inspace.net>
Subject: O/D
>X-POP3-Rcpt: fariello-at-nebula
>Return-Path: Giles.Patrick.PR-at-bhp.com.au
>From: "Giles, Patrick PR" <Giles.Patrick.PR-at-bhp.com.au>
>To: "'Doc'" <fariello-at-inspace.net>
>Subject: O/D
>Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 16:31:00 +1000
>
>Hi
>As I mentioned before I am looking for an overdrive, I keep hearing
>about the milemarker type. Can you offer me any info on this or any
>other kind ?
>Sorry I am so short but I am in a bit of a hurry today
>
>Thanks Rod
Rod, I've forwarded this to the fsj-list. Ladies, Gentlemen, and John,
this is Rod...
Y'all know how to handle this... <grin>. Email him direct, he's not a
subscriber. Help him out if ya can!
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\_____|___|DOC|___|_____/
|\/\/|--------\_/--|\/\/|
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Home of the "Bottomless Transfer Case"
_____________________________________
email: fariello-at-inspace.net
http://www.inspace.net/~fariello/fsj
_____________________________________
[Back to Top]Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 13:07:44 -0600 (MDT) From: Brian Riggs <Brian.Riggs-at-genetics.utah.edu> Subject: Re: I NEED AN AXLE SHAFT FAST! Matt, I'll make a couple of calls to see if I can find one. You have '80 right?? Brian On Tue, 6 May 1997 GypsyLive-at-aol.com wrote: > My passenger side rear axle shaft is screwed, the bearing spun and chewed it > up, Ive searched most of the local yards to no avail, so If anybody out there > has an > AMC 20 WIDETRACK passenger side axle shaft they would like to part with I > NEED IT! > > > > > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > >[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 15:39:11 -0400 (EDT) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: Re: I NEED AN AXLE SHAFT FAST! OK, Maybe I should just BUY a complete Dana44 rear end from a wide track, seems like that will be easier to find! But will it bolt in? I think we covered that the Diff offset isnt too great for the U joint to overcome-(did I dream this up?) then im stuck with the gear ratio problem, I have 3.31, Id like to have deeper, but the more this adds to the cost the more likely to let the SLED sit in the yard for a few more YEARS.. thanks guys[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 15:44:52 -0400 From: John Esposito <espos-at-compuserve.com> Subject: Rear End I just had a (non-jeep)parts guy insist that I couldn't have a Dana 44 rear end in my '89 GW. He claims that only Spicer 44 or Dana 35 were available for those vehicles. Did Spicer and Dana take the same cover? My factory service manual says the GW's in '89 only had Dana 44's. I am looking for the gasket so I can check out my rp's and the fluid(something doesn't sound right) and this guy is giving me an arguement. Any help. Alfred J. Esposito espos-at-compuserve.com '89 Grand Wagoneer[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 97 15:32:01 EDT From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: How to Digest I forget how to set myself to digest mode. Somebody please give me the instructions. Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 97 16:08:08 EDT From: rdmbfe-at-micro.lucent.com (M_B_FEICK) Subject: 455 Dreamer or Doer? Today I helped my buddy load up his 70 C20 with my 76 455, a Buick th400, AND a NP 205 xfer case set up for a th400. We are moving this stuff out of storage and to my basement to ready myself for the next phase of Mr. Beef. When I get back, I am going to finish the 258 (almost done) and put the low range unit onto the low mile QT I just got, as well as move the shift kit to the th400 I also just got to replace tranny #2. This will carry Mr. Beef into this winter, let me get the new bed on and other body parts (floor work, etc.) and get my landscaping done. I'm going to build a retaining wall 23 yds long by 8 ft high, so the Beefinator is going to earn his keep this year! Anyway, I figure the chain in the 57K mile QT is still at LEAST useable if not cherry, so I will wait and combine my *new* chain from the QT I'm using now (the one I rebuilt before I knew about the "torque test") with the marginal differential, and get a sweet QT out of the 4 that I have. This way, when I do the 455/th400/np205, I will have the option of 258/th400/D20 or QT on the next vehicle I grab for the wife and kids. This winter will have me in the basement redoing a 455 AND a np205. I borrowed my buddies' C20 manual that has a D20 AND a NP205 section in it, and WOW-you guys were right!! You might not break a D20, but you sure as hell ain't breakin' a NP205. GEEZ! Looks real easy to rebuild if you have dial gauges/mics and stuff. Those things have W I D E helically cut gears, and basically a hollowed out anvil for a case! Can you say "455 4wd burn out with ARB's?" My u-joints are getting rheumatism just hearing this! I also got hooked up with a guy who has a buzz box and a mean welder who used to do railroad truck conversions. (you know so they can run on the tracks?) I'm planning on putting my old bed on a J10 frame from a yard near here so I can haul ignorant stuff like broken fill cement. Do any of you know how to make the brakes on a trailer like that work on an electric solenoid? I would also like to find a military style pintle hook set-up that goes into a receiver on a trailer hitch and put the ring on the trailer. Any suggestions? Now *THIS* is dreamin' as I already have enough to do this summer, but you never know what somebody needs that I have or can do... Brad Feick[Back to Top]
Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 14:38:59 -0700
From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net>
Subject: Re: I NEED AN AXLE SHAFT FAST!
well the d44 rear would give u more choices when it
comes down the RP selection time, cuz not ALL the d44 RP
have a amc20 counter part! :(
GypsyLive-at-aol.com wrote:
>
> OK, Maybe I should just BUY a complete Dana44 rear end from a wide track,
> seems like that will be easier to find!
>
> But will it bolt in? I think we covered that the Diff offset isnt too great
> for the U joint to overcome-(did I dream this up?)
>
> then im stuck with the gear ratio problem, I have 3.31, Id like to have
> deeper, but the more this adds to the cost the more likely to let the SLED
> sit in the yard for a few more YEARS..
>
> thanks guys
>
> ---------------------------------------------------
> To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command
> "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message.
>
>
--
Sincerely
kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a
kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a
Super Wagoneer.
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