Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:57:17 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: Henry w/ 62-72 FSJ Cool. I'm interested. Is that an estimate of $50 each copy? ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: Zack Heisey <moosh-at-redrose.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Henry w/ 62-72 FSJ > Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 9:01 PM > > Henry, > Yes, all J-series models that were produced 62-72. > Z. > > 68 Wagoneer wrote: > > > > Yeah, will that cover a Wag as well as a J-truck? > > > > ======================================= > > Henry Padilla > > '68 Jeep Wagoneer > > Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser > > jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com > > > > ---------- > > > From: ck1-at-pacbell.net > > > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > > > Subject: Re: Anyone w/ 62-72 FSJ > > > Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 7:04 AM > > > > > > Hello Zack... I have a 1970 Wagoneer 1414C. If this model is > > > included in what you have - I'm interested... > > > > > > On 1997-05-14 moosh-at-redrose.net said: > > > > > > >As some of you already know, I have stumbled across an original copy > > > >of a 62-72 J-series Jeep Parts Manual. Like the other parts manual, > > > >I am going to get it reprinted for the list if there is sufficient > > > >interest. I already have three people interested, and I would like > > > >to find out if there are any more. A ballpark price for this will > > > >probably be around $50 give or take. This book isn't quite as > > > >thick as the 74-80 'cuz it dosen't have any CJ crap. If you are > > > >interested, you don't have to commit to anything, I would just like > > > >to know a general number. If we can get around 10 people, the > > > >price would be cheaper. Let me know. Later, > > > > > > All the Best, > > > Bruce * kb6lwn * ck1-at-pacbell.net * 707-987-4737 > > > > > > .. 1970 Jeep Wagoneer (1414C) V8-350 4WD "Pinecone" > > > > > > Net-Tamer V 1.08X - Test Drive[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:58:48 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: Keeping exhaust from coming in the windows No, mine's not. I just wanted to mention that I had the air deflector. BTW, my exhaust exits at the side. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: Keeping exhaust from coming in the windows > Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 8:52 PM > > henry, is ur wag that is sucking the fumes?? > if so, where does the exhaust exit, at the rear or at the side?? > > 68 Wagoneer wrote: > > > > The '72 parts Wag I just bought has one. It's in good shape except for the > > shelf paper (needs replacing). Not sure if I'll install it on Ole Bessy. > > > > ======================================= > > Henry Padilla > > '68 Jeep Wagoneer > > Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser > > jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com > > > > ---------- > > > From: Chrisharon-at-aol.com > > > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > > > Subject: Keeping exhaust from coming in the windows > > > Date: Saturday, May 10, 1997 12:08 AM > > > > > > I'm assuming you're talking about the exhaust being sucked in the back > > > window while you're driving? If so, they used to make (still may for all > > I > > > know) an air deflector that mounts to the top back of the roof that > > breaks > > > the vaccuum(sp?) created by our big boxes. I pulled one in the junk yard > > and > > > will hopefully be installing it before our trip in a couple days. If I > > do, > > > I'll let you know how it works. > > > > -- > Sincerely > > kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a > kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a > Super Wagoneer.[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:00:41 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: TH-400 Shift? I'll let you know what the shift points are hopefully on or around Memorial Day. Mine has about 10,000 miles on the rebuild. It shifts very softly. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: Sc0 <jjd-at-flex.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: TH-400 Shift? > Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 8:46 PM > > Who has a 400 Hydramatic under their Jeep? > > At what speeds does it shift at? > > first it's already in first > second around 35mph > third around 50mph > it used to be > second 15mph > third 35mph > What can it be? > (type F transmission fluid) > > And how does it shift? (when mine shifts, it jerks you...) > > "Who are we?" > Sc0[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:01:35 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: 360 V8 mpg CT, still at $1.47 ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: Sc0 <jjd-at-flex.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: 360 V8 mpg > Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 8:40 PM > > > > Need to move down south....gas just went to .94 cent a gallon for regular > > unleaded.... > > Yippeeeeeeee I can drive my huggie diaper machine again....BTW 5-7 mpg... :( > > named that due to baby blue paint.... > > Billy > > 79,80 > > J10 > > .94? > > Houston.........$1.11, (they like to make more money...)[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:54:49 -0500 From: "68 Wagoneer" <jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com> Subject: Re: gears Roger that. They are both D44s. Prob is this: I took the diff cover off the parts Wag's rear D44 to check out the 3.31s that will soon be swapped out. Immediately noticed a .5" long piece of metal laying at the bottom of the diff housing. Turned the pinion and heard a lot of squeaking and binding. Not good. Don't know if it's the bearing or what. Anyway, I'll find out if the gears are serviceable w/in the next wk, and let you know. Taking it to Smiths tomorrow so they can do the gear swap, bearing change, and Lock Right install. I hope to get it back in time to install it Memorial Day wkend. The good news is, the original 3.31s out of Ole Bessy's should be good. ======================================= Henry Padilla '68 Jeep Wagoneer Buick 350 thoughtfully installed by Kaiser jeepwagoneer-at-gyral.com ---------- > From: SuperKen <kenns-at-concentric.net> > To: Multiple recipients of <fsj-list-at-listserver.tehabi.com> > Subject: Re: gears > Date: Wednesday, May 14, 1997 9:17 PM > > well if doc dont want em, give me a ring!! > as long as they r both d44 rp's!! > > > 68 Wagoneer wrote: > > > > 3.31 > > > > ======================================= > -- > Sincerely > > kenneth e. wetherall If a Wagoneer can go where a > kenns-at-concentric.net CJ can go, then it's a > Super Wagoneer.[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:03:08 PDT
From: "wallace rees" <seerlaw-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: chrysler
Hey
I call Chrysler today , their pr line and they said they went ahead and
advertised on ellen and any future adver. will be based on how the show
politicly is doing. Did I misunderstand the taped message?
Would a little bit heat on those bushings help.
O, gas here in Idaho Falls is running 129. I only dream of 94 a gal
W. Rees
83 FSJ If you haave to drive
drive a FSJ
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[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:07:17 -0400 From: "John Jacobs" <jabobsj-at-flash.net> Subject: Been gone a while.. Hey Everybody!! I have 30+ FSJ digests to read, but I've got some good (and bad stuff) to say before I forget it: 1) Saw a nice mid-80s GW on April 27th driving on I-94 east just outside of Chicago. Did a couple of loops around it in the Windstar from work. (If it is somebody from the list and I scared you then I apologize, but I was missing my own Wag...) Also, many other sightings, but that was the best (bestest?) Even have the guys at work looking!! (HA! it is contagious!) 2) I purchased a Jacobs ignition system for my 75 Wag (stock 360). I decided to go with the Magnum system, and they claim I can scrap my BID. They say they can read my distributor (AMC's attempt at HEI) Hope to have it by the weekend to see how it works. They claim easy install. I'll give a report. (if anybody is interested) btw -- They claim to be running a special on the system for $375 instead of the normal $500.. 3) My Wag has plenty of new leaks. I have gone from 0 to 2 major leaks since I bought the thing a couple of months ago. I have a oil leak that I am try to track down (if I can find the time when the weather is nice, #*-at-%*** Michigan spring time!!!) and the other day pulled into the parking lot and saw a new leak. (I am soooo proud!!) It seems that the rear axle cover plate is leaking. I also have to climb under the Wag and check this out. I haven't experience any problems with shifting, so I am hoping it is just another dead gasket.. (for crying out loud the vehicle is 22 years old!!) Also.. I am looking at re-building the engine this summer. What kind a $$$ am I looking at here. I will probably do most of the wrench turning myself (me and my hack friends) I am looking at a budget of < $2000. That would include: new cam, carb, and intake manifold (Edelbrock set, $500), headers ($100), and other basic rebuild components ($500 and up? or maybe less...) Is this reasonable or overkill? Comments or questions? Thanks, John Jacobs (jabobsj-at-flashnet.com) 75 Wagoneer Royal Oak, Michigan[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:13:21 -0500 From: Jim Weisflock <mrmonk-at-basec.net> Subject: Re: Admiral's Warning & 360 question chrissy saltsgaver wrote: > This'll bring a hail storm of come backs:) Actually I think the AMC V8 in > it's current form came out in '65 didn't it? Or am I thinking of the inline > 6 (one or both were new in '65) The stock 360 in Jeeps and AMCs is in no way related to any Ford truck motor. In the most modern form the AMC 360 block debuted in 1970 I think. The 232 I-6 came out in '65, and the 258 sprung from that motor in '71, or 72, around there. I could be a little off on the years. -- ____________ | /| | James R. Weisflock | / | | mrmonk-at-basec.net | / | | American Motors FrEaK and Buick fan. | / | | "Neflite" of IRC Undernet #sailormoon |/ |____| SOS: http://looney.physics.sunysb.edu/~daffy/sos/ -------------------------------------------------------------------- 1987 AMC Jeep Grand Wagoneer (360 V8 2bbl, 33" Glasspack exhaust, Cobra 40 channel CB, Uniroyal Sport King A/Ts 30x9.5x15s, Pioneer DEH-225 CD) -------------------------------------------------------------------- AMX Files: http://www.amxfiles.com/ Javelin Homepages: http://www.javelinamx.com/ My ORC page: http://www.off-road.com/4x4web/jeep/fsj/weisflock.html -------------------------------------------------------------------- Buick Turbo Regal Website: http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/buick.html -------------------------------------------------------------------- "Yes I know my enemies They're the teachers who taught me to fight me!" -Rage Against the Machine-[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:18:13 -0400 From: "John Jacobs" <jabobsj-at-flash.net> Subject: [No Subject] I got mine, thanks!! It has been a great reference tool. Also, my friends quickly turned to the decal section and showed what a 75 Wag with full woodgrain would look like!! (Sorry, no wood-grain so far.. just a funky (but cool) pin stripping..) John Jacobs (jabobsj-at-flashnet.com) 75 Wagoneer Royal Oak, Michigan -------------------------------------- Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 00:44:51 -0400 From: Zack Heisey <moosh-at-redrose.net> Subject: Get the Parts Books? Hello all, This is kind of a late follow up, but I'm just checking in to see if everyone who ordered a parts book (and sent a check) got one. I know I sent them all but you know how the mail is. I'd also like to hear some reactions good or bad. I hope that they can be put to good use. If anyone lurking is still interested, I have 2 left. Thank you, that is all. Zack Heisey '79 J-10 '79 Cherokee Chief Wide Track[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 21:35:59 -0700 From: ericfa-at-ixpres.com (Eric Faust) Subject: Tailgate Fun I put everything back together with no big problems this evening and now have a functional tailgate. I do have a pair of vise grips where the latch release handle should be but it works fine for now :) . I tried to pick up a rear window "sprayer" (the nozzle that sprays the window for the wiper) but they wanted $22.00 for the little thing! I asked the guy to show me the part because I thought that was crazy and it was the right part. I guess I'll be hitting the bone yard. On this subject, can someone describe the routing of the hose/tubing that runs to this nozzle? BTW, the wag seems to run much better since fixing the rear window. Must have added 10 or 15 horsepower ;) Eric Faust '89 Grand Wagoneer - working tailgate power window![Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 23:40:27 -0500 From: Joe Sego <jsego-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Re: TH-400 Shift? At 08:46 PM 5/14/97 -0500, you wrote: >Who has a 400 Hydramatic under their Jeep? My 79 Chief has one, so does the 78 J-10 > >At what speeds does it shift at? > >first it's already in first >second around 35mph >third around 50mph > it used to be > second 15mph > third 35mph Kinda depends on how heavy your foot is in the throttle. Under what I call normal driving second at 20 mph, 3rd at 35-40 both shift real smooth. Wish they shifted firmer. > What can it be? > (type F transmission fluid) I use only Dextron for GM tranny. > >And how does it shift? (when mine shifts, it jerks you...) > >"Who are we?" >Sc0[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:10:26 -0700 From: Dan Matheny <dmatheny-at-mutoh.com> Subject: Re: Low Range and other Q's >>Sounds promising, Mike. Front or rear? Price? >> > >Henry, it's the front bumper. Originally on a '76 J10 that died of cancer. >How's $20 sound? > >Mike Saltsgaver. Does it have all the mounting brackets? I'm in need of a complete front bumper with mounting hardware. Henry, I got the impression you're looking for a rear bumper, so if you don't want Mike's front bumper I'd like to pick it up. Henry? Mike? C Ya, Dan Matheny '77 J20, 360, QT; '95 ZJ Laredo, 318,.QT[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:12:29 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: Quadratrac Fluid...
> Hello
>
>
> I am trying to find out what type of differential gear oil my
> 1978 Jeep
> Cherokee takes. I seem to get a lot of mixed messages on this
> question. It is a quadra-trac.
>
> Please Respond:
> Clint
CBRabit-at-aol.com
> **************************************************************
Clint, if you're talking about your transfer case, you'll have to use
the special Quadratrac fluid. However, my memory isn't complete, but
on ORC - FSJ pages or on doc's IFSJA site (link from ORC - FSJ) there
was a piece written by someone that found something that will work...
My Quadratrac is the NP219 and takes ATF... The older Borg warner
units need that special fluid because of the cylinders inside...
I'll cc this to the FSJ-list to see if anyone had a better memory
than me... (not hard, really... :-)
later,
john meister
fsj editor
---------------------------------------------------------------
john-at- http://www./~john
Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 01:21:13 -0400 From: Zack Heisey <moosh-at-redrose.net> Subject: I am Kronking Mad Telnet is kronking kronk. I just spent a kronking hour typing all this kronk into this kronking computer so I could finally have my own kronking web kronking page, and just as I was about to save it the last kronking time, kronk, the kronking modem kronking disconnects, and I loose the kronking telnet kronking link. I'm so mad I could kronk. I saved throughout, but there's a big section at the end that's kronking gone. Please, no smart kronking comments, just needed to vent. Thank you, that is all.[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:29:22 +0000 From: "William S. McBride" <wmmcb-at-televar.com> Subject: Re: Anyone w/ 62-72 FSJ Zack Count me in for a copy of the 62-72 parts book if you can keep the price below $50. I have a beautiful original service manual. Bill McBride 68 J-100, 327, TH400, D20, 3.31 wmmcb-at-televar.com[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:33:21 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: AMEN
> > I have been told that the AMC 360 is really a Ford truck engine. Is
> > that really true?
> >
> NOT TRUE
>
> ive had this argument a zillion times, if your mechanic or parts
> dealer told you this, FIND ANOTHER SHOP!!!!
>
> amc 360, is an AMC 360!
>
> ford 360 is a totally different motor
I should add this to the FSJ-Myths page (if I can remember where I
put it...).
This is the same basic asinine thing you hear about the Kaiser 327
and the Tornado 230... Not to mention the ignorance about the origin
of the 2.5L and the 4.0L AMC motors of the 80's...
Or all the differences in the Ford 351's!!! Windsor, Cleveland or
Midland??? :-)
I think it's wishful thinking... Simple minded people trying to
make things simple... (hey, I can relate.... ) It's easier to think
that it's a major brand than some off the wall podunk company that ya
never heard of and went under before you were born... :-)
ttyl,
john
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Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:40:36 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: this sounds familiar...
> With a 20 gallon tank, it has gotten to the point where we're just
> parking
> it and using it only on a weekend trip - however with the poor mpg
> that doesn't make sense. A trip to SF (100 miles one way) gets to be
> costly, especially if there's a tie-up on the Bay Bridge.
>
> Love our FSJ, but have begun to seriously consider an XJ Limited.
> With the
> high cost of smog, registration,fuel, etc., I can't afford to just
> park a vehicle and use it only for short run outings.
>
>
> Aaron.
Aaron,
Old Blue sits in the carport during the week... I'm driving one of
those leather lined, decked out xj wagoneer limiteds every day...
getting about 17 to 18 combined driving, mostly congested freeway...
I'D RATHER BE DRIVING MY FSJ!
(anybody got a line on license plate frames... ??? :-)
later,
john meister
---------------------------------------------------------------
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Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:46:24 +0000
From: "john meister" <john-at->
Subject: Re: spring bushing How-to on FSJ-ORC...
> Hope this helps and good luck.
>
> Tom C, Tampa
Thanx tom...
I built a page with this, nice work... IT's on FSJ-tech.html
ttyl,
john meister
fsj editor
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john-at- http://www./~john
Snohomish, WA - where JEEPS don't rust, they mold...
http://www./~john/statement.html
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[Back to Top]Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:42:31 -0800 From: mindale-at-ix.netcom.com Subject: More smog stuff To add more fuel (no pun intended) to the unleaded question, I have a 78 Chief, 360, it has the unleaded restrictor and a cat. Although the cat could have been added any time in the 18 years before I bought it. My big problem is all of the diaghrams and books I have seen show a charcoal/evap cannister for 78 CA and 79-up 49 state vehicles. I don't have a cannister, nor is there anyplace where one has been disconnected. There is no sticker under the hood so I have no idea if this is a CA or 49 state vehicle. It is registered in CA with a current smog check done before I bought it, but I want to avoid problems when the time comes to get it smoged myself. I checked with a Jeep dealer but he didn't know and told me to check with the state smog people, I asked them and they said they didn't know but not to worry about it. When the smog people say not to worry that is exactly what I start doing. So, without an underhood sticker, how can I verify once and for all if this is a CA vehicle or not, and whether or not lack of an evap cannister will cause problems later. If it is a 49 state vehicle can I take off the cat since they weren't standard on 49 state vehicles until 79? Thanks for the help. Dale Webb Pleasanton Ca.'78 Cherokee Chief, 360, T-18[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:46:43 -0700 From: Joe Schaefer <joes-at-olympus.net> Subject: Re: farming gear swaps... > >I'm interested to find out the cost... next major project for old >blue (hopefully before the torque converter forces my swap hand...) >is to go to 3.73 gears... > >I've got a mechanic that will probably charge me about $250 or so >(guessing) for both ends... he's a good guy... > >ttyl, >john John, FWIW, R&P Service (Everett)gave me a quote for r&p, both ends, one carrier, install kits etc $1300 for my.. ahemmm...cj (same day service). Olympic wanted $1200 and 3 days to do it! Basically figure parts and labor = $1000+... If you can get it done (right) for $250 labor, go for it. Cheaper if you bring the axles in though. (ie. sans truck :) Not too feasible from where I live :( Regards, -jj[Back to Top]
Date: Wed, 14 May 1997 22:54:48 -0700 From: "R. Laureano" <rotil-at-premier1.net> Subject: 80+ lbs of oil pressure? Just when I think I have everything working (I can live with the schizoprenic gas gauge)my oil pressure gauge gets delusions of grandure... Anyone know why a once healthy oil pressure gauge just goes beserk one day and upon ignition goes from 0 to an 80+ reading in 1.2 seconds? Maybe if someone can just point me to where the oil pressure wire is connected I can start from there. Thanks! Roti[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 00:03:47 -0700
From: "Landen Schooler (the Scotsman)" <skoullar-at-ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: amc 390 a ford?
Dennis M. "Doc" Fariello wrote:
>
snip...
> individual rocker arms. The FE is also the proud possessor of the
> strangest intake manifold design in history... the pushrod tubes go
> through the intake manifold, which overlaps the heads, under the valve
> covers. So as an example to do an intake swap on a Ford FE block you have
> to pull the valve covers, the rocker arms, the front cover, etc, etc, etc...
>
Ah..No you don't have to pull the front t-cover to change the intake.
Also, have you ever looked at the current Cadillac 4.1 & 4.5 V-8s? they
use the
same intake layout as the FE Ford!
> The oil pump on AMC v-8s is, as we know, on the front cover. On the big
> Fords it's in the oil pan, where it belongs.
>
> The Ford FE also has the distinction of being the only engine I've ever
> seen where a water pump can be replaced with nothing more than a crescent
> wrench.
>
> The Ford FE is still to this day in production, in Ford's medium truck
> line, presently it's 332 cubic inches. The casting number on the block
> used to this day is for a 1967 352 inch motor.
>
The above statment I don't believe is true now. I think they are
currently using versions of the 385 series engines, I'll have to do some
more research on this one.
> Displacements, if I can remember them all, were 332, 352, 360, 361, 390,
> 391, 406, 410, 427, 428, 430, and 462 in various car and light truck lines.
>
The 430 & 462 are MEL engines NOT FE.
> Jeff, the 429 and 460s were NOT FE blocks... they were "385" series
> motors, based upon, and QUITE similar to, albeit larger, the "335" series
> "Cleveland" motors (351C, 351M, 400).
>
> The largest motor Ford ever used in a car, as far as I know, was the 462,
> it was used in Lincolns for about two years I believe. It's basically a
> .030 bored-over 427 with a 428 crank in it. You can take a 390 and open it
> up that far, but not the smaller blocks.
>
A .030 over 427 FE with a 428 FE crank will give you 454.46ci
The 462 was use from 1966 to 1968 when the 460 came out in '68 1/2.
The MEL engines came in 383, 410, 430, and 462 ci.
MEL means Mercury
Edsel
Lincoln
[Back to Top]Date: 15 May 97 02:06:26 EDT From: Michael Baxter <74172.1164-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Re: AXLE questions GypsyLive-at-aol.com writes: >> So I was wondering if an 80-83 Jtruck might have the same axle shaft...i have heard that it will work << Matt, the '74-80 Parts Book says not the same axle in 1980. The '80 Wide-Track used a 323-5810 while the '80 J-10 used a 323-5808. Group 9 page 11 (GR9 - T11) at the top of the page for the guys with Parts Books. -- Michael Baxter, 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 14-May-1997 at 23:04:25 PDT !^NavFont01F0009MGYHGbHH_37F8[Back to Top]
Date: 15 May 97 02:06:12 EDT From: Michael Baxter <74172.1164-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Sticking my neck out for JCW Jeff Herbst <JeffHerbst-at-electrosys.com> writes: >> OK, so what do you guys have against JCWhitney? So far I have been satisfied with everything I have bought from them. << I order from JC Whitney a couple of times a year. I haven't had any bad experiences and I've returned several items for credit without any hassle. JC Whitney does have parts you can't get elsewhere and they are slowly making a transition to brand names and shiny color catalog pages. I was just looking at their latest catalog today and they have Bosch fuel injectors for the Benz for something like $24 ea. Can't touch that elsewhere. (The Benz is undergoing Spring maint. right now...so far, new plugs -plugs started life with .032" gap now worn to .048" New ignition cap...$80 ouch! New rotor $40 New ignition wires...$145. Wow...I like a little S&M but... And maybe a new injector for #4 if I can't get it to clean enough to spray a pretty cone pattern. 1st time the cap, rotor and wires have needed changing...not bad for 80,000 miles.) Anyway, I'm not fond of their shipping method (USPS). I've had two boxes arrive split-open and contents spilling out but, everything was there both times. They're not terribly fast at getting an order to my door step mainly due to the USPS but, they're not really that slow either. Now if you want to talk about the pre-bankruptcy JC Whitney...that's another story. -- Michael Baxter, 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 14-May-1997 at 23:04:17 PDT !^NavFont01F000AMGmHGvHK75DE60[Back to Top]
Date: 15 May 97 02:06:21 EDT From: Michael Baxter <74172.1164-at-CompuServe.COM> Subject: Gordon McKenzie <gordmck-at-direct.ca> >> Has anyone done their front spring hanger bushings? << Gordon, you've been getting some excellent responses. One from Henry and one from someone new. Glad to see the new guys/gals jumping in. Here's what's worked for me in the past. I probably have all the parts to fabricate the "official" jeep tool but, being relatively lazy I just use my biggest hammer :-). Really, I turn the springs on their sides and soak the spring eye bushings real good with penetrating oil and then let them sit overnight (longer if you have the time and turn them over and spray the other side). The next day I hang the ends off the bench and heat the loop with a propane torch. Then using a socket sized just like the official jeep tool procedure, I tap them out. Sometimes it takes 3 hits and sometimes it takes 50 hits. I don't hit hard with my 5 lb. sledge. Just consistent smacks and always with eye protection on. If you get a stubborn spring-eye, heat it up until the rubber starts to smell, remove the inner bushing and the rubber isolator like Henry did, heat it up some more, then spray the inside of the outer bushing with freeze-it spray (available at electronic parts stores) and tap it out. Hopefully you'll get at least one spring-eye bushing out intact because a lot of times they need your old one to make sure you get the right new ones. To get the new ones in, I put the spring eye bushings in the freezer overnight. The next day I put the springs out in the sun for a few hours. I used a piece of threaded rod stock with a thick washer between tow nuts to pound the new ones in last time I did this operation. I just sprayed each hole with penetrating oil again and smacked them just right a few times. -- Michael Baxter, 74172.1164-at-Compuserve.com http://ourworld.compuserve.com/homepages/MBaxter From Reno, NV USA on 14-May-1997 at 23:04:21 PDT !^NavFont01F000DMGHHGJMGvHL68454E[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 07:12:18 -0400 From: Kevin LaRue <osfoo-at-megalink.net> Subject: Re: Sticking my neck out for JCW [from Michael Baxter <74172.1164-at-CompuServe.COM>:] > Now if you want to talk about the pre-bankruptcy JC Whitney...that's another >story. Which time? They have a history, which is another reason to avoid them -- you loose if you have something on order when they file. My adventure with them was from November 1995 - March 1996. Have they gone bankrupt within the past year? Be seeing you! Kevin LaRue Osfoo PO Box 62, Peru, Maine 04290 (207)665-2348 osfoo-at-megalink.net[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 07:11:07 -0700 From: "Mark J. Smith" <us004765-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Lead additives. JJ, I thought they changed the type or composition of the rings when unleaded fuels went into use. I have heard that softer metals were used early on with the leaded fuels in terms of blocks, valves, heads, rings, etc. Then in an effort to reduce wear the metals were made harder by changing the composition or purity of the metals. Does any one know this to be true or false. As for lead substitute, What's in the blasted stuff? I was wondering if they use graphite or something to that effect. And is it a trade off between gumming up your engine or excessive wear? Thanks, Mark >At 07:15 14-05-97 -0700, you wrote: > I run at a minimum 2 >>bottles of lead substitute for each 5 fillups. Without the lead >>substitute unecessary wear could occur. >> >>Regards, >> >>Mark > >Mark, >Just my opinion here but save your money. All the lead ever did was keep >the valve seats lubed. By the time you wear those down the heads will need >going through anyway. Plus the absence of lead has never been proven to >cause 'significant' wear over using leaded fuel. The money you save on lead >additives will pay to get your heads done at some 'distant' time. I've >never run lead additives in anything even my motorcycles and everything I >own just about is from 1970-73. I never seen any 'extra' wear on anything. >My 71 HD Sportster has 40k miles on it with one top end job since new. >(That's real good if you're not familiar with HD's). My 73 360 V8 has 160k >on the engine and heads and runs fine blah blah blah..... >Also by just throwing lead additives in the fuel tank you're not getting >near the proper lead ratio due to uneven mixing. IMHO you're probably doing >more harm by gumming stuff up with the extra lead not to mention the >pollution concerns. >Talk with a local engine rebuilder before you buy anymore. Unleaded fuels >have been used long enough now in older cars to dispel the "you're engine >will be ruined on unleaded fuel" scare. > >Regards, >-jj > > > >--------------------------------------------------- >To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command >"unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > > Mark Smith marksjeep-at-mindspring.com Editor: Jeep J-Series Home Page http://www.mindspring.com/~us004765/jtrkwww.htm 1978 J20 360 V8 Daily driver stock. 1984 J10 360 V8 Frame off restoration slightly modified.[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 07:18:59 -0700 From: "Mark J. Smith" <us004765-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Lead additives. Tom, I use my 78 J20 as a daily driver 166 miles a day round trip to work. I easily put on up to 3,000 miles a month. Would this classify as heavy use. And would lead substitutes be warranted or am I just throwing my money way. The stuff sells for $1.80 - $2.10 a bottle depending on brand and if it contains octane boosters like STP's Thanks, Mark At 12:40 PM 5/14/97 -0700, you wrote: >Guys, when they started phasing the lead out of the regular gas a few >years back, I was really concerned about what the effect would by for my >Buick. A friend of mine who is into muscle cars gave me a couple >articles that investigated the effects of unleaded on engines without >hardened valve seats and valve guides. The basic conclusion was that >the only situation where you would cause excessive valve seat recession >and valve guide wear is if the engine is being run at high rpms with a >heavy load for long durations of time. For example, towing a 5000# >trailer up a grade at 75 mph for a couple hours could qualify for this >case. Normal everyday driving has no effect. Since that time I've >probably put about 35-40k miles on the Buick running unleaded. Although >I haven't taken the engine apart yet, I don't think there has been any >problem. One thing I've noticed, though, is that the older, higher >compression engines (the Buick is 9:1) run MUCH cooler and better using >a minimum of 89 octane even though I never had any detonation problems >with 87. I have a feeling the higher octane helps keep excessive >cylinder temperatures and pressures from damaging the engine and helps >make up for the lack of lead. > >Tom Anhalt > >Joe Schaefer wrote: >> >> At 07:15 14-05-97 -0700, you wrote: >> I run at a minimum 2 >> >bottles of lead substitute for each 5 fillups. Without the lead >> >substitute unecessary wear could occur. >> > >> >Regards, >> > >> >Mark >> >> Mark, >> Just my opinion here but save your money. All the lead ever did was keep >> the valve seats lubed. By the time you wear those down the heads will need >> going through anyway. Plus the absence of lead has never been proven to >> cause 'significant' wear over using leaded fuel. The money you save on lead >> additives will pay to get your heads done at some 'distant' time. I've >> never run lead additives in anything even my motorcycles and everything I >> own just about is from 1970-73. I never seen any 'extra' wear on anything. >> My 71 HD Sportster has 40k miles on it with one top end job since new. >> (That's real good if you're not familiar with HD's). My 73 360 V8 has 160k >> on the engine and heads and runs fine blah blah blah..... >> Also by just throwing lead additives in the fuel tank you're not getting >> near the proper lead ratio due to uneven mixing. IMHO you're probably doing >> more harm by gumming stuff up with the extra lead not to mention the >> pollution concerns. >> Talk with a local engine rebuilder before you buy anymore. Unleaded fuels >> have been used long enough now in older cars to dispel the "you're engine >> will be ruined on unleaded fuel" scare. >> >> Regards, >> -jj >> >> --------------------------------------------------- >> To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command >> "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. >> >> > > > >--------------------------------------------------- >To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command >"unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > > Mark Smith marksjeep-at-mindspring.com Editor: Jeep J-Series Home Page http://www.mindspring.com/~us004765/jtrkwww.htm 1978 J20 360 V8 Daily driver stock. 1984 J10 360 V8 Frame off restoration slightly modified.[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 07:31:49 -0700 From: "Mark J. Smith" <us004765-at-mindspring.com> Subject: Re: More smog stuff Dale, I have a 78 J20 360 no restricter and no cats or cannister. Think it was originally from Arizona. Regards, Mark At 10:42 PM 5/14/97 -0800, you wrote: >To add more fuel (no pun intended) to the unleaded question, I have a 78 >Chief, 360, it has the unleaded restrictor and a cat. Although the cat >could have been added any time in the 18 years before I bought it. > >My big problem is all of the diaghrams and books I have seen show a >charcoal/evap cannister for 78 CA and 79-up 49 state vehicles. I don't >have a cannister, nor is there anyplace where one has been disconnected. >There is no sticker under the hood so I have no idea if this is a CA or >49 state vehicle. It is registered in CA with a current smog check done >before I bought it, but I want to avoid problems when the time comes to >get it smoged myself. I checked with a Jeep dealer but he didn't know >and told me to check with the state smog people, I asked them and they >said they didn't know but not to worry about it. When the smog people >say not to worry that is exactly what I start doing. > >So, without an underhood sticker, how can I verify once and for all if >this is a CA vehicle or not, and whether or not lack of an evap >cannister will cause problems later. If it is a 49 state vehicle can I >take off the cat since they weren't standard on 49 state vehicles until >79? Thanks for the help. > >Dale Webb >Pleasanton Ca.'78 Cherokee Chief, 360, T-18 > > > >--------------------------------------------------- >To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the command >"unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > > > Mark Smith marksjeep-at-mindspring.com Editor: Jeep J-Series Home Page http://www.mindspring.com/~us004765/jtrkwww.htm 1978 J20 360 V8 Daily driver stock. 1984 J10 360 V8 Frame off restoration slightly modified.[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 08:08:19 -0400 From: Jack Jacques <ozwine-at-dnet.net> Subject: Re: 80+ lbs of oil pressure? R. Laureano wrote: > Just when I think I have everything working (I can live with the > schizoprenic gas gauge)my oil pressure gauge gets delusions of > grandure... > > Anyone know why a once healthy oil pressure gauge just goes beserk one > day > and upon ignition goes from 0 to an 80+ reading in 1.2 seconds? Maybe > if > someone can just point me to where the oil pressure wire is connected > I can > start from there. > > Thanks! > > Roti > > --------------------------------------------------- > To Unsubscribe send email to macjordomo-at-listserver.tehabi.com with the > command > "unsubscribe FSJ-List" in the body of the message. > R. Laureano, I think you need a new sending unit. Same thing happened to me. Easy, inexpensive $12-15 fix. Luck, Jack[Back to Top]
Date: Thu, 15 May 1997 08:45:21 -0400 (EDT) From: GypsyLive-at-aol.com Subject: Re: 80+ lbs of oil pressure? In a message dated 97-05-15 08:32:26 EDT, you write: > Anyone know why a once healthy oil pressure gauge just goes beserk one day > and upon ignition goes from 0 to an 80+ reading in 1.2 seconds? Maybe if > someone can just point me to where the oil pressure wire is connected I can > start from there. > > Thanks! > The wire is probably touching the frame or engine somewhere , it connects to the sending unit ( brass colored cylinder above the oil filter, about the size of a short tomato paste can) ( sheesh bad reference...) the wire is on the end, with a spade connector... there isnt usually much slack to work with... hope you get it worked out![Back to Top]
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