From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sun Jul 1 11:21:03 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Saturday, June 30 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1361 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: submarine tactics fsj: boat pulling fsj: synthetics fsj: Re: Boat Pulling fsj: FW: [JEEP-L] OT: Photopoint - Getting Your Photos fsj: was: Re: Ford Part # - now: larger filters... :) Re: [fsj: synthetics] Re: fsj: Re: life in the UP fsj: a new record... Re: fsj: Re: life in the UP fsj: misc. list stats Re: fsj:life in the UP fsj: Tailgate window woes FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 09:31:22 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: submarine tactics >Subject: fsj: Boat Pulling >I want to pull my sailboat, the trailer has to be pretty far in the >water. Can I submerge the exhaust on the Jeep GW or is this a bad idea >? I may daisy chain Jeep - Chevy Pickup - trailer. The ramp is shallow >grade. >- - Landon well, first off, if you're gonna sink something, sink the Chevy, because it's not likely to pull the Jeep or the boat out... ;) yes, you can submerge the exhaust, just keep it running. If you have it submerged very deep and stall it may not start again because of the pressure. Although I have restarted with the back end of my Jeep well under water when I went too fast through a creek and got my distributer wet. :) The water was up to the top of the back wheels and it restarted fine... john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:57:56 -0400 (EDT) From: David Charles Gedraitis Subject: fsj: boat pulling One could just break out the deep water fording kit :-) well, maybe that's just me... Just be careful and bring all sorts of things you may not think you need-traction aids help a lot. I worked on a party boat on cape cod for 7 years which docked next to a boat launching ramp-I saw some interesting things. Some guy launched a really nice mercedes once. But more often than not, the rigs that wouldn't pull their boats out were things that were light in the rear, not very powerful trucks, or people who did not take into account that at low tide it's harder (the ramp got progressivle steeper-poor design), and that seaweed is VERY slippery. I've helped quite a few people out when they got stuck-had them put it in neutral, and towed the car and the boat out :) At least I have yet to see a Jeep get stuck, and I hope we can keep it that way. ~dave '67 Kaiser M-715 '61 Chrysler Newport '55 Chrysler Windsor Wagon ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 10:23:52 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: synthetics >Subject: Re: Amsoil >I have never used Amsoil before either. What is the >difference between Amsoil and other synthetics such as >Mobil 1 which I've been a "believer" in for the past 4 >years. Is it a full synthetic or a blend? I've heard >that it is great for higher mileage vehicles. My '88 mark, amsoil has been around since '73. it is a full synthethic that is fully compatible with dino oil. They do offer para-synthetics, syn and dino oil blended to offer a less costly product. but why use that to save $1 or so? :) mobil 1 is a synthesized hydrocarbon, basically reconstituted dino oil. mobil 1 reformulates the oil base so that all the molecules are the same size basically. It's good stuff but still subject to the weaknesses of oil as far as shear and temperature characteristics. amsoil, and other syn producers, do not like to share what they are made of. Basically amsoil uses a dibasic acid esther base stock. early versions of redline were polyol esther base stock and incompatible with dino oil, but were great for extreme performance racing engines, hence the name redline. the redline products out there now are a blended synthetic. redline's formulation isn't (or wasn't a while back) designed for extended drain intervals. By blending the base stocks you get the benefits of the extreme protection and the ability to mix with other oils. amsoil has an excellent base product to work from that requires little in the way of additive packages. but you'd expect that after all the years they've been doing it... :) oil doesn't wear out, it gets dirty and the additive packages break down. that's also why Diesels should not use 10w40, the viscosity index improvers break down and deposit on the rings and actually will wear the engine out. It's sad to say that there is so much "specmanship" in the synthetic oil market now... there are ASTM standards and tests... but it seems that you really can't shop and compare the specs provided. :( It would be nice if they listed things like pour point, flash point, the results of a standard four-ball wear test and so on... comparing products is just about impossible... :( bottom line is that most brand name synthetics are better than dino oil, most likely have seal swelling agents to prevent leaks and have better thermal characteristics than dino oil. Extended drain intervals have been a longstanding benefit of amsoil, and a nice "cushion" for those of us that forget... :) But if you're on a budget, buy the one that you can afford and change it on a regular basis. I typically go about 1/2 what I can on the amsoil synthetics, say about 12,000 miles or so instead of the 25,000 miles or one year... on my diesels I'd only go about 7,000 miles instead of the 15,000 miles. Of course with fuel injected engines going the full distance doesn't look to be a problem. :) One other use of synthetics is the Automatic Transmission... heat is the worst enemy. Synthethics, because of their uniform molecular size and electrical characteristics (they tend to "cling" to the metal), seem to transfer heat more efficiently. I've heard of temperature reductions of 50 to 75 degrees in tow trucks and other tow rigs. The same thing with the amsoil synthethic gear lube... a farmer contacted me because the vendor that sold him a feedbox said to use amsoil to keep the gearbox from blowing up! Claimed a 50 degree drop in operating temperature. Synthetics also resist mixing with water, so for 4x4's they make sense. Four Wheeler had an article by moses ludel a few years ago where he praised amsoil synthetics... Unfortunately the only synthetic power steering fluid I've seen is valvoline, and I'm using it... :) I think they make a synthetic brake fluid too, right? So, pretty much any synthetic or synthetic blend is worth using. The old myth of more leakage is still a myth. The benefits associated with improved heat transfer, increased shear strength, lower pour points, higher temperature characteristics, and increased durability make using synthetics a no-brainer. (a lot of newer vehicles require or recommend it too... Mercedes Benz Diesels come with it, so do Corvettes... my owner's manual on my WJ mention using Synthetics in the Vari-lock axles...) john - ----------------------------------------------------- http://www.wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ To order 1-800-956-5695 customer# 283461 Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 13:01:56 -0500 From: "Landon Tesar" Subject: fsj: Re: Boat Pulling They have, I just don't have one. It's not a deep keel boat. The Chevy will be my tongue extender, if necessary..(2WD) - - Landon Vince Orr wrote: > I'm surprised someone hasn't invented an extended tongue for sailboat > trailers in these situations. Perhaps you could have someone fabricate > one - i.e. larger diameter tube that locks onto your existing trailer tongue > and extends the reach by about 15 feet. Temporary use of course. :) > --Vince > '81 Wagoneer ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 11:30:22 -0700 From: "Phillips, Scott" Subject: fsj: FW: [JEEP-L] OT: Photopoint - Getting Your Photos Just passing this along for anyone who uses photopoint Scott - -----Original Message----- From: Jeff Libby [mailto:Jeeper-at-LibbyFamily.Com] Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 10:57 AM To: jeep-l-at-mailinglists.org Subject: [JEEP-L] OT: Photopoint - Getting Your Photos Photopoint really makes it hard to download your photos. It seems that they set a cookie when you access the album and then check that cookie when you view the photo. This makes it really difficult to batch download photos. So, I searched usenet postings and found an undocumented Photopoint feature... their FTP server. It seems you can FTP to their server using your Photopoint username and password and get your photos that way. I created a PP account for myself and tested this. You can use any ftp client to do this. Here's instructions from a dos prompt or unix shell: - - Open a DOS window or a unix shell - - type: ftp ftp.photopoint.com - - enter your Photopoint username and password - - type these commands to setup ftp: bin hash prompt - - If you type 'ls' you will see a directory structure with all your Photopoint albums - - For every album do this: cd album_name mget * cd .. (this takes you up one directory so you can cd to the next album) Happy downloading!! - -Jeff - --------------------------------------------------------------------- To unsubscribe, e-mail: jeep-l-unsubscribe-at-mailinglists.org For additional commands, e-mail: jeep-l-help-at-mailinglists.org ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 12:43:39 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: was: Re: Ford Part # - now: larger filters... :) At 12:09 PM 6/29/01 -0700, Jeepin' Ain't E-Z wrote: >Not sure what the non-HO size is....... the non-HO 4.0L motor doesn't have an amsoil filter, the problem is the metric threads and the seat. On some 4.0L's you can use an SDF-44, others, like mine, wouldn't work because it wouldn't seat well enough, not enough threads would engage... :( With the replacement standpipe using SAE threads then the SDF-15 (same size as the ford filters: ph8a, per1, etc.) will work. SO I JUST CHECKED, on the 4.0L engine, or other engines using a Ford PH8a / PER-1 type filter (most bypass type filters, auxillary filters and so on like the TransAdapt units) you can use the following, from smallest to largest: SDF-57, SDF-34 (not sure why you'd want smaller than stock... ;) SDF-42 (the "stock" 4.0L HO size, slightly smaller than the PH8a, PH16?) SDF-15 (the same size as PH8a, per1, etc. approximately 1 qt) SDF-26 (apx 1.5qt, supposedly a chevy truck size, will find the fram number later) >.but stock "Fram" size for the HO >engine is the PH16. 1qt size is the PH8A. Not sure if you have an Amsoil >catalog to cros-reference it. ph8a is SDF15 there is another filter that is bigger that uses the same threads... the SDF-26, it holds a quart and a half... :) >FWIW, the non-HO 4.0 in the XJ stands at a 45* angle upward. A larger >filter is limited out at a "PH8A" size, as we found on Rob's XJ. AFAIK, >there is a pin that holds the mount and it can be rotated like my HO engine, >which goes straight back. That's how I know that I can fit a 1.5qt filter >on it. Not only does it increase oil capacity, it allows the oil to cool >somewhat. another thought is to get one of those magnetic finned things to slip over the filter, not only will it trap metal particles, it'll help to cool. :) >Phil thanx for asking the question and making me look. :) john >----- Original Message ----- >From: "john" >To: "Jeepin' Ain't E-Z" ; >Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 11:41 AM >Subject: Re: Ford Part # > > > > really??? hey curtis, we need to check the 4.0L on your stand, > > see if it accepts a ford ph8a type filter... have one handy? > > maybe the asf-42 is an SAE thread type, just a smaller filter, > > in which case I've got an extra standpipe I can sell on the xj list. :) > > wait, I have an asf-42 here, I can check... either way, the asf-42 > > I sent down for superdawg needs to be swapped out for the sdf-15. :) > >> john > > > > At 11:16 AM 6/29/01 -0700, Jeepin' Ain't E-Z wrote: > > >Thanks John........ > > >> >And FYI, the standpipe I bought from you was identical to the one > that is >on> >my HO engine. I gave that standpipe to Rob Dome since he has an 87. The >HO > >uses the SAE thread. :o) > > > > > >Phil - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/Filter_INFORMATION/air_filter-1.jpg http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/Filter_INFORMATION/air_filter-2.jpg FS JEEPs: 360/401: TS-23 258: TS-12 retail $21.50 xj JEEPS: 4.0L/2.5L('87 and up): TS-29 retail $29.95 DieselBenz: typical S1118 or S1680 retail $32.50 or $39.85 http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ order 1-800-956-5695 cust# 283461 Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: 29 Jun 2001 14:13:53 MDT From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [fsj: synthetics] john wrote: > Unfortunately the only synthetic power steering fluid I've seen is > valvoline, and I'm using it... :) I think they make a synthetic brake > fluid too, right? Right. I use it in one of my two FSJs and it is wonderful. I am doing some experiments to determine just how much of a difference it makes in pedal firmness. It is supposed to be good to very high temps without the water absorption problems of silicone fluids. It would be interesting to see what kind of gas mileage increases are possible by using synethics in engine, trans, tcase, and axles, as I understand that they reduce friction versus standard oils. Michael - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net "For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 18:10:14 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Re: life in the UP On Fri, 29 Jun 2001, Robert A Rode wrote: >-->And Listen to Ted Nugent while bowhunting! >-->________________________________________________________________ :) and while slapping mosquitos in the mud... :) john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 18:23:57 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: a new record... I think I set a new record on my commute home tonight... 27 minutes and 30 seconds to go less than 5/10ths of one mile... no, no accident, no, not bad weather, perfectly sunny temperate day... just normal 5pm traffic on State Route 96 as it connects to State Route 9... but remember, Snohomish County has been studying this intersection since 1976... ;) john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:33:24 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: Re: fsj: Re: life in the UP John was hiking in the UP once when two mosquitoes landed one on each of his shoulders. One said to the other, "Hey, should we eat him here or take him back home?" The other mosquito said, "Let's eat here, if we take him back, the 'big ones' will get him!" - --Vince '81 Wagoneer - ----- Original Message ----- From: "john" To: "Robert A Rode" Cc: ; "full size jeep list" Sent: Friday, June 29, 2001 8:10 PM Subject: Re: fsj: Re: life in the UP > On Fri, 29 Jun 2001, Robert A Rode wrote: > > >-->And Listen to Ted Nugent while bowhunting! > >-->________________________________________________________________ > > :) > and while slapping mosquitos in the mud... :) > > john > > ---- > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** > ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** > Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 29 Jun 2001 21:55:40 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: misc. list stats and the winner is... FSJ... ;) (real time + digest mode - June 29, 2001) XJ list: 61 + 67 = 128 diesel-benz list: 88 + 60 = 148 FSJ list: 69 + 82 = 152 later, john '67 Jeep J-100 Panel - not for long... :( '83 Jeep J10 Stepside - getting '96 xj 4.0L HO driveline... :) '87 Jeep Cherokee Laredo - until the J10 is done '99 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited - "hers" http://wagoneers.com/johns-vehicles.html - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 10:07:07 -0400 From: mpolkkidodge-at-netscape.net Subject: Re: fsj:life in the UP youse guys know too much about da UP eh? The weather has been bad for the last few days 80-90% hunmidity, 90 degrees I can't paint more of my house in this weather I'll be lucky to get it before it snows in September:) Mike ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 30 Jun 2001 17:41:25 -0400 From: "Toboggan Hill Farm" Subject: fsj: Tailgate window woes My tailgate window is not responding to commands. The dashboard switch has been inoperable for quite a while. The tailgate (key-activated) switch was still working until a short time ago. Now when I try to lower the window, nothing happens at all. I removed the inside tailgate panel and found that the winding/cranking mechanism is getting power to it when the key is turned. There is a duel-wire lead coming off of the mechanism. One wire is black and the other is yellow. I pulled that at the connection to a brown and a white (as I recall). The wire connecting to the yellow is hot when the key is turned in either direction (so the yellow wire would be getting power). The other wire was not hot in either the up or down key position. Is this the way it should be? If so, is the mechanism shot? What else should I test? How difficult and expensive is it to take out the electric and install a hand crank? (This is the third time I've had trouble with this window - each time a different problem). Thanks, Brett ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1361 **************************