From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sat Jul 7 10:14:53 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Friday, July 6 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1370 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... fsj: Re: Dura -lube .. slick 50,.. what ever... what the best? and why?.. fsj: additives fsj: off topic: Grand Cherokee question Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... ] Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... ] Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news...] fsj: Re: stereo suggestions? fsj: re: stalling and QT fluid Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... ] fsj: Cd/Cassette Combo fsj: Sony AM/FM.Shortwave receiver fsj: Re: Fw: [FSJ-List] Re: Dana 20 FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 15:12:51 -0500 From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... maybe that the ones I was thing of.. The kind that have that soft wub wub wub sound. I have never put on or heard many mufflers.. But I want something low.. thanks for the info! R.J. David Charles Gedraitis wrote: > > I have the same issue with my cam-I've been shutting if off in drive for a > while, but then I got an electric fuel pump, and as I have no fuel > injectors, it doesn't seem to mind just dying like that. If I were you I > would avoid glasspacks-they will give you a sound level too loud to hear > other people/radio in the car, although they will work well if you use > them as resonators instead of mufflers. I would recommend going with a > nice flowmaster or borla mufflers. Lots of luck... > > ~dave ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 16:16:03 -0400 (EDT) From: David Charles Gedraitis Subject: fsj: Re: Dura -lube .. slick 50,.. what ever... what the best? and why?.. Well, aside from quieting my noisy lifter, I don't see as there is really any other way to figure out if any of these things work without a couple of identical motors, one a control, the other with an additive-to test them all would be quite the pain, so please send your money to... :^) But in my experience, the slick 50 (haven't tried anything else) helped, annnnd this is all going into a '61 361 with a six-pack, custom cam and ignition, 10.5:1 pistons, nitrous, solid lifters, roller rockers-a real beast. This regularly gets revved over 7,000 RPM and the only thing that has blown up on it is the exhaust, oh, and the drive shaft snapped in half one night-that was interesting. If one wanted to worry about additives, those of us who have olllld cars with the original rubber parts of the fuel system, MBTE seems to eat through those. Newer rubber doesn't seem to be hurt by it, but if you haven't replaced it and your gas contains MBTE, don't be surprised to find your hoses coming apart one day. just my 2 pennies ~dave On Fri, 6 Jul 2001, R.J. Baynum wrote: > > Well I said, "Dura-lube".. But also meant, "Slick 50" and any other products, like > Pro-long and so forth.. I friend of mine suggested it because He had added some,( > I don't remember the name, might have been pro-long..) in his car then one day his > oil pan fell off, and he drove for another two months, without noticing it. > So, are there any products you have heard of that really work? > > R.J. > > David Charles Gedraitis wrote: > > > > I have used slick fifty and found it works well. I haven't done any > > specific testing, but for a long time I had a noisy hydraulic lifter in my > > '61 chrysler, and I did an oil change and added some slick 50, ten minutes > > later, that lifter quieted right down. Later on of course, I made sure it > > would never be noisy again by installing a new cam with solid lifters, > > (more performance :-), and they say setting valve lash is a lost art... > > > > ~dave > > smokin' 40 year old tires in massachusetts > > > > On Fri, 6 Jul 2001, Alexander Wall wrote: > > > > > What about Slick-50? I have been putting a quart of that into each oil change the last > > > 4 or 5 changes. I haven't noticed any negative effect, but not any real positive one, > > > either. I don't wnat to kill a still-working engine, though. I have 183,000 miles on > > > my engine. > > > > > > Alex > > > > > > --- James Blair wrote: > > > > A: For the luvva Jeep DON'T put Dura Goop in your nearly new engine! I > > > > have ruined 3 motors with that crud personally and witnessed a fleet of > > > > Toyota diesels destroyed by that crap! Sure it lowers the temp of your > > > > motor, but around here where there is emission testing, I have seen the > > > > results for myself. > > > > My wife's '85 Toyota Tercel, which ran perfectly and passed the > > > > emission test with flying colors a month prior, failed the CO at idle > > > > (from running too cold, even with a highway run and 195 thermostat in > > > > it. Fuel economy dropped like a rock from 35 to 20 mpg. No other changes > > > > other than Dura Lump put in) until I disconnected the cooing fan and put > > > > a sheet of cardboard in front of the rad and ran it till it was in the > > > > red zone, and it barely passed) A month later it started burning oil, > > > > even though compression was 180 across the board. I sold it rather than > > > > rebuild it, because it requires boring oversize to get rid of the crap > > > > or the rings won't seat! > > > > My '72 Ford pickup with 390 ran well before getting Duralube (It got > > > > it the same time as the Tercel or I would have known better) and ran > > > > like crap after, dropping from 17 to 8 mpg and it failed the E test, > > > > even after rebuilding the carb (speaking of carbs, I rebuilt my friend's > > > > '76 Wag 360 2 bbl Motorcraft recently, and used a Borg Warner $16 kit > > > > (#10035D) which had all the basic gaskets and the power valve while > > > > different works well. They get 15 mpg with it {I got 14 mpg highway > > > > before the powervalve went, and it dropped to 8 mpg}, and it passed > > > > Oregon DEQ E-test. I'm not sure what is in the $85 kit that is specific > > > > for AMC 360 that makes it so expensive, but this one seems to work > > > > fine!) > > > > My ex-boss in Canada had a fleet of Toyota diesel delivery trucks he > > > > tried Duralube in 1/2 them. At first it acted as claimed for a couple > > > > months, so he put it in the rest. With a month, the first batch started > > > > burning oil and needed ether to start cold! Then the second batch had > > > > the same trouble. We took the motors apart, and could not find any > > > > reason for it, and reassembled 3 (which never seated the rings) before > > > > the machine shop told us we were wasting our time. > > > > They refused to rebuild Duralube treated motors for customers anymore > > > > because of comebacks (95%) unless they were bored oversized and hot > > > > tanked (tanking alone doesn't even clean that crap off! The cylinder > > > > hone leaves no marks either) > > > > Go with the synthetic oil (I only add Bi-tron when a motor is near > > > > the end of it's useful life to get a little more out of it. I definitely > > > > wouldn't put it in a motor with less than 5000 miles on it! I did treat > > > > my wife's '99 Ranger 3.0L with it at 10,000 miles and got 2 mpg better > > > > average, which is 10% for that one!) > > > > > > > > From: "R.J. Baynum" > > > > > > > > Thanks John! > > > > I got the oil changed today after it's break in period, , a little late, > > > > around 600 miles though.. ( at Express oil change.. cause I don't have > > > > time , with work right now.. using the truck as a everyday work, > > > > (landscaping, grass maint. ) By the way.. I left a flyer with a guy who > > > > had a 70 Blue J-10 Honcho, (bad oxidized paint.. but the decal is > > > > different of course, He probably thought I was a nut case... > > > > I did not have enough money at the time for synthetic oil, and they did > > > > not have enough syn/dino blend.. ( which is better? ) > > > > Also it's not too late to put any Dura-lube or anything like that in it > > > > yet is it? I would love to hear your thoughts as well as the others on > > > > the lists ( I'll forward to.. ) > > > > Thanks! > > > > R.J. > > > > > > > > ************************************* > > > > JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche > > > > http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ > > > > http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 > > > > ************************************** > > > > > > > > > ===== > > > Alexander Wall > > > Spokane, WA > > > > > > ***************************** > > > "Where there's a will, there's a way." > > > Where there's a way, there's a construction crew disrupting traffic! > > > ***************************** > > > Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail > > > http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 15:49:42 -0500 From: Landon Tesar Subject: fsj: additives > I friend of mine suggested it because He had added some,( > I don't remember the name, might have been pro-long..) in his car then one day his > oil pan fell off, and he drove for another two months, without noticing it. > So, are there any products you have heard of that really work? > > R.J. > I think I just had my leg pulled through the internet. - - L ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 14:02:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Jeremiah Westpfahl Subject: fsj: off topic: Grand Cherokee question Hi Folks. Just had a guy bring by a GC that is leaking water on the floors from something plugging up in the heater box. I noticed that the underside of the heater box area had a lot of condensation on it. I'm told that the drain hose underneath the GC was checked & is clear, so something's leaking or plugged before it gets to that point. Owner says it even leaks water on the drivers side of vehicle, he thinks through the floor blower ducts. Anyone have any knowledge of the GCs & where I need to look to track down the problem Thanks Miah Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: 6 Jul 2001 15:39:14 MDT From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... ] Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) wrote: > he said it got his > motor over 100,000 miles, and I pointed out that my 4 cyl Cherokee had > 160,000 and no oil burning yet w/o that stuff Until I got my Jeep and got on the lists I didn't think any except a few Japanese cars made it much beyond 100k before they totally fell apart. I wonder if this is a widely held myth? Or is it the product of growing up in Tucson where heat does horrible things to vehicles? Or is it the result of owning a mid-70's fri afternoon GM vehicle that had a $200-500 repair every couple months after 50k...? Seems there are a whole bunch of people who go out and buy brand new cars every five years. Seems like a guy could get by on old, cheap, durable, cars like Merceds diesels, Volvos, Jeeps, AMCs, etc. But I guess you have to have some mechanical knowledge to make that plan work for you.... Michael - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net "For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 17:49:00 -0400 (EDT) From: David Charles Gedraitis Subject: Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... ] Actually, I worked for a stint in a garage that only worked on Japanese cars. I suspect they employ midgets to work on them as my hands didn't fit in half of them, but anyways, the majority of them which I saw had a considerable amount of mileage on them. My brother's toyoa pickup has over 170,000 miles on it and it still goes along just like when he got it. My dad's landcruiser (also a toyota) has over 200k, and is getting rusty but is mechanically perfect. I remember rebuilding an acura with 250k that still had the original hone marks in the cylinders. I found it impressive. I'd own one of these things, if not for the fact that working on them is an extreme pain, parts are wayyy too expensive, and i don't like being in a tin can-jeeps drive right over things like that and that will be the day I drive something that will fit in the bed of my M-715 :-) ~dave On 6 Jul 2001, Michael Shimniok wrote: > Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) wrote: > > he said it got his > > motor over 100,000 miles, and I pointed out that my 4 cyl Cherokee had > > 160,000 and no oil burning yet w/o that stuff > > Until I got my Jeep and got on the lists I didn't think any except a few > Japanese cars made it much beyond 100k before they totally fell apart. I > wonder if this is a widely held myth? Or is it the product of growing up in > Tucson where heat does horrible things to vehicles? Or is it the result of > owning a mid-70's fri afternoon GM vehicle that had a $200-500 repair every > couple months after 50k...? Seems there are a whole bunch of people who go > out and buy brand new cars every five years. Seems like a guy could get by > on > old, cheap, durable, cars like Merceds diesels, Volvos, Jeeps, AMCs, etc. > But > I guess you have to have some mechanical knowledge to make that plan work for > you.... > > Michael > > --- > Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net > "For every complex problem, there is a solution that > is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: 6 Jul 2001 15:56:33 MDT From: Michael Shimniok Subject: Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news...] "R.J. Baynum" wrote: > A new problem has arisen.. When I hit the gas after a stop light, I hear > a hiss,like a vacuum leak, When I check under the hood, and revved it I 4bbl or 2bbl carb? Stock air cleaner or open hot rod style? After putting on a 4bbl and a hot rod style air cleaner, my 86 hisses like a cat whenever I get on the gas much at all. I gather it's the noise of air sucking thru the carb easily transmitted thru the more open air cleaner. It's a little weird at first but you get used to it. Is it an unchanging hissing sound or a sucking sound that increases with rpms? Maybe it is a leak, but if it is only when you get on the gas, then look for ported vacuum rather than manifold vacuum hoses that are leaky cuz with the gas on, manifold vacuum actually drops. As for the dieseling... there are a few things that were engineered into the vehicle to help stop it. The solenoid on the stock carb kicks off and drops the throttle below idle shutting off air to the motor so it can't run after the ignition goes off. > I am afraid to advance it any further. My Friend did the timing by way > of the timing light.. although i think I need to take it somewhere where > they have the proper equipment, with scopes, to get a better idea of > what is needed. Maybe, but why not adjust it gradually until it pings slightly under load, then back it off until it doesn't, then back it off just a little more. That is sort of a more organic way to set timing to the specific needs of your vehicle. > Also,, I really don't like the sound of it now with a RV cam in it,. I Sounds like your catalytic converter is really jacked up. Time for a(nother) new one??? The two beat AMC 360's I've had sounded pretty hot with a 3" hi flow setup even if they couldn't get out of their own way. > My window on the passenger side is still broke, raining inside makeing Err... why not try to force it in the up position? I was able to use a 4x4x1" block of wood and a small clamp to hold it in place against the inner door sheetmetal to keep my LR window forced up until I get the new flex track in place. Failing that, clear plastic duct taped to the window looks like crap and is darned hard to see out of but it's sure better than a moldy stinky seat. Just a thought. Michael - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net "For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 14:50:37 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: Re: stereo suggestions? On Fri, 6 Jul 2001 RMSquaredJeeps-at-aol.com wrote: >--><< So, what kind of stereos are out there that I can get for my J10 (or any >-->other >--> rig) that has both the cassette and CD and good quality without costing >--> more than a used engine? And that would have some sort of remote >--> control that mounts to the wheel... >> >--> >-->John, >--> >-->If you're willing to cut your dash to a 7 x 2 inch DIN slot, I believe that >-->Sanyo makes an all-in-one unit. I also think JVC did as well but not sure if >-->it's still available. You can go to their web sites to confirm. I think I saw >-->the Sanyo unit at Frys on sale a while back. If you're serious about this, I >-->can dig a bit deeper. yep, willing to cut the dash... I have a Kenwood KRC 2005 - shafted type, in the dash now, will it take a CDChanger and remote?? thanx for sharing your expertise. :) >-->If you don't want to cut your dash, I think that Kenwood still makes a >-->shaft-mount AM/FM/cassette with CD controls built-in. You can have the >-->AM/FM/cassette in the dash with the changer under the dash, in the glove box >-->or console (if so equipped) or under the seat. Again, visiting the Kenwood >-->web site should provide the answers. >-->Good luck, >-->Richard Truesdell john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 14:53:36 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: re: stalling and QT fluid On Fri, 6 Jul 2001, Walt Greenwood wrote: >-->Hi John, >-->I sand blasted and repainted the mirror -- it's now looking good in the >-->J4600. Also tried low range yesterday afternoon -- that works. >--> >-->Been having some trouble with the engine gradually dying when idling hot. >-->Just kind of peters out, then it's hard to keep running when I restart. It >-->catches instantly, but then dies instantly. When cooled off it's OK again. vapor lock? reroute fuel lines away from heat. also, what's the choke doing? and, does your filter have a return line? don't think so... just a thought. is there a spacer under the carb to protect from heat? phenolic base... >-->I replaced the coil without effect, and the fuel pump's putting out 7 psi or >-->so. I'm stumped -- carb (Motorcraft 4300) was supposedly rebuilt just a >-->couple thousand miles ago (before I bought the rig). suspect fuel related issue since you don't have electronic ignition. >-->Do you know if there's a valve in the fuel pump to hold pressure and prevent >-->drain-back? no, I don't think there is. >-->Also my owner's manual sez motor oil in the '73 Quadratrac with some special >-->additive. That sound right to you? yep, Quadratrac fluid, olympic has it... you need the special stuff... :) john >--> >-->Walt Greenwood >--> ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2001 14:57:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Alexander Wall Subject: Re: [Re: fsj: transfer case question, and the news... ] I personally have never owned a vehicle younger than 13 years old when I acquired. Nothing with less than 85,000 miles on it. I don't plan to ever buy a vehicle younger than 5 years old - I want to know it'll hold up. If you have ANY wrenching inclination, you should think of it like this: No mechanic, no matter how much you pay him/her, is going to CARE as much as you about your vehicle. That really makes a difference in the details. Alex - --- Michael Shimniok wrote: > Carnuck2-at-webtv.net (jim blair) wrote: > > he said it got his > > motor over 100,000 miles, and I pointed out that my 4 cyl Cherokee had > > 160,000 and no oil burning yet w/o that stuff > > Until I got my Jeep and got on the lists I didn't think any except a few > Japanese cars made it much beyond 100k before they totally fell apart. I > wonder if this is a widely held myth? Or is it the product of growing up in > Tucson where heat does horrible things to vehicles? Or is it the result of > owning a mid-70's fri afternoon GM vehicle that had a $200-500 repair every > couple months after 50k...? Seems there are a whole bunch of people who go > out and buy brand new cars every five years. Seems like a guy could get by > on > old, cheap, durable, cars like Merceds diesels, Volvos, Jeeps, AMCs, etc. > But > I guess you have to have some mechanical knowledge to make that plan work for > you.... > > Michael > > --- > Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net > "For every complex problem, there is a solution that > is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ===== Alexander Wall Spokane, WA ================================================== "Where there's a will, there's a way." Where there's a way, there's a construction crew disrupting traffic! ================================================== Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 19:39:48 -0400 From: mpolkkidodge-at-netscape.net Subject: fsj: Cd/Cassette Combo John- Looked up some cd/tape players for you, hope this helps This should be all you need if you are looking for Crutchfield http://Crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/S-Adv76d0J0J3/ProdGroup.asp?c=3&g=52600&s=0 Links To the Factory Sites- JVC- Huge Cd/tape Probably too big.http://www.jvc.com/product.jsp?productId=PRD3206000 Sanyo- I like this one the best Don't think it comes with the Remote though, http://www.sanyousa.com/consumer_electronics/mobile/excd-1000.html Kenwood- Double Din Sized Like the JVC *EXPENSIVE* http://www.kenwoodusa.com/product/product_type.jsp?productTypeId=19 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 17:15:47 -0700 From: Pat Hines Subject: fsj: Sony AM/FM.Shortwave receiver It appears that Sony has discontinued the model I bought, but has a newer model available on the page below: http://www.jackys.com/product/default_det.asp?cat_id=35&cat_name=Car%20Audio ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 06 Jul 2001 17:51:41 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Fw: [FSJ-List] Re: Dana 20 At 07:49 PM 7/6/01 -0500, DONALD wrote: >John,I have a gw 360 ,th400 and dana 20,i am goinning to part out if >intrested e-mail me with offer. thanks,donnie where are you? are you an the fsj list on digest.net? I'm cc'ing kenneth... a d20 is rather heavy.. but it is shippable, probably weighs about 85lbs, ups will deal with it... john >----- Original Message ----- >From: "john" >To: "Gaines, Kenneth L MM2 (SIMA TX)" >Sent: Friday, July 06, 2001 12:35 PM >Subject: [FSJ-List] Re: Dana 20 > > > > > > don't know, passing to fsj lists. > > john > > > > On Fri, 6 Jul 2001, Gaines, Kenneth L MM2 (SIMA TX) wrote: > > > > >-->John, > > >-->Do you know of anyone that has a Dana 20 t-case for sale/trade? I am >about > > >-->to need one. The little T-4 tranny that I have in my CJ is about o >explode > > >-->under the tremendous power of the AMC 360 that I recently installed. >This is > > >-->evidenced by the freshly twisted rear driveshaft, the VERY difficult > > >-->shifting into 1st and second gears, and the strange vibration coming >through > > >-->the shift lever at highway speeds (currently running Smokey in 4HI >with the > > >-->front axle until I can get the rear shaft fixed/replaced next week). >Also, > > >-->isn't there a way to shift a Dana 300 into a "front-wheel drive only) >mode? > > >-->I have heard of removing the t-case linkages and moving the shift pins > > >-->separately to shift the front axle into high range and the rear axle >into > > >-->neutral. This would be ideal for driving the CJ with the front axle. > > >-->Thanks in advance. Have a great weekend. > > >-->O)||||||(O > > >-->Ken > > >--> > > > > ---- > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux **** http://wagoneers.com ** > > ** http://junkscience.com ** http://snopes.com ** http://freegift.net ** > > Snohomish, Washington USA ...don't leave life without Jesus, please... > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > > > > > > > > To post message: FSJ-List-at-yahoogroups.com > > To subscribe: FSJ-List-subscribe-at-yahoogroups.com > > To unsubscribe: FSJ-List-unsubscribe-at-yahoogroups.com > > Moderator: FSJ-List-owner-at-yahoogroups.com > > Home Page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/FSJ-List > > > > > > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ > > > > > > - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1370 **************************