From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Wed Jul 18 09:03:48 2001 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Wednesday, July 18 2001 Volume 01 : Number 1387 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: Re: diff covers Re: [Re: [fsj: CJ $$$]] Re: fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer fsj: Re: police push bars - seattle, wa Re: fsj: 90 GW Changing Plugs Advice Re: fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer Re: fsj: fuel delivery Re: [Re: fsj: Re: diff covers] Re: fsj: RE: fuel delivery fsj: Re:Re: diff covers RE: fsj: 90 GW Changing Plugs Advice re:fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer fsj: Re:pawtucket FSJ? Re: fsj: Check Valve Woes fsj: Rez Passes Again FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:01:18 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: Re: fsj: Re: diff covers Mine goes up in front of the firewall to regions unknown. - --Vince '81 Wagoneer - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Powell" To: "Vince Orr" Cc: "FSJ List" Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 9:02 AM Subject: Re: fsj: Re: diff covers > I am a new owner of a '90 GW. I was wondering what the deal is with this > differential vent tube. I noticed that my front diff has the vent line but it > doesn't seem to be fastened into place anywhere other than where it mounts on > the diff. Is there a particular place I should add a nylon wire tie or > something to get the vent line secured into position? Should there be one of > these lines on the rear diff too? > > Thanks, > Mike > > > Vince Orr wrote: > > > Yeah I have a vent tube, doesn't seem to get dirt in it but it is dirty all > > over and there is seepage where it fits into the differential. That always > > bothered me. Probably need to replace the hose. It fits into the top of > > the housing aft of the diff cover which is about as good a place as it could > > be put but I still think it could be improved on. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:08:09 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: Re: [Re: [fsj: CJ $$$]] Yeah. Yeah. Well I had a line on a J -truck but couldn't stay in Iowa for the auction. It was pretty cancerous and probably would have went for too much money (farm auctions are notorious for overpricing most of the time). I've seen a lot of Wagoneers and Cherokees still kicking up dust around western Iowa though. - --Vince '81 Wagoneer - ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Shimniok" To: "Vince Orr" Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 12:04 PM Subject: Re: [Re: [fsj: CJ $$$]] Makes sense. Now that I'm close to getting my FSJ trail worthy, I'm getting more afraid to take it on the trail for fear I roll it. :) I guess it isn't much of a trail rig if you're worried about body panels. I think the trick to getting a CJ is to get involved in 4x4 clubs and pick up one from a club member that isn't wildly overpriced and is in good shape...? Just guessing. Maybe just be real vigilent about watching for ads and for sales and whatnot. I suspect they are damn hard to find for a good price... maybe you should get a 2nd FSJ?? :) Michael "Vince Orr" wrote: > Thanks Mike. I was starting to think the general public is crazy. Um. I > guess that's right. I just keep having this vision of my FSJ pulling a > trailer with a CJ on it and both painted the same color. I like my FSJ too > much and I think now I'd like to sacrifice a CJ to the trail gods instead of > my FSJ. > --Vince > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael Shimniok" > To: > Sent: Monday, July 16, 2001 11:44 AM > Subject: Re: [fsj: CJ $$$] > > > > That's precisely why I got an FSJ. I originally wanted a CJ. Kept seeing > > trash on wheels for $4000 regardless of age condition etc. > > > > Kaiser CJ5 so rusted out the body was resting on wood blocks on the frame. > > Another Kaiser with a nice oil and coolant mixture on the "newly rebuild" > V6. > > An 80's with a hosed tranny. A 70's CJ5 that had sat outside for 2 years. > > An > > 80's CJ7 so rusty the quarterpanels would oscillate violently in a slight > > breeze and the springs so stiff I thought they'd welded the axles to the > > frame. > > > > Took two years of looking at overpriced rejects before I realized I could > get > > an FSJ in superb shape for less money. Many CJ's aren't worth this kind > of > > scratch, but they are highly sought after so people think they can charge > a > > lot. You may not be able to go top down in an FSJ, but after you do a > lift, > > tires, and lockers, you should paint it yellow cuz it'll be takin' CJ's to > > school. > > > > FSJ's are a great bargain and still a well-kept secret, so sshhh, already! > :) > > > > Michael > > > > Landon Tesar wrote: > > > > Are broken down CJ's really worth that kind of money? I've seen > > > > FSJ's in better shape for less. > > > > - --Vince > > > > > > > Down here in Austin, where everything is overpriced, that CJ probably > > > would have $3500 on the asking price. > > > > > > - Landon > > > > > > --- > > Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net > > "For every complex problem, there is a solution that > > is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken - --- Michael E. Shimniok - KC0EKI - Michael.Shimniok-at-usa.net "For every complex problem, there is a solution that is simple, neat, and wrong." - H. L. Menken ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:10:48 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: Re: fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer Regulator is built into the alternator and the motorcraft box is the ignition control module (brain box). Jeep must have gotten a real deal on those in '81. - --Vince '81 Wagoneer - ----- Original Message ----- From: "R.J. Baynum" To: Cc: Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 2:53 PM Subject: Re: fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer > Well it could be your cruise control? > > and the Volt reg , is inside the alt, I believe.. > > R.J. > > Grtdaneguy-at-aol.com wrote: > > > > I was wondering? Can anyone tell me if the voltage regulator is built into > > the alternator? Also what is the square box that sits on the drivers side > > wheel well for. To me it looks like a voltage regulator but it's on the wrong > > side??? It's a motorcraft part, it has ridges on the top and is fairly heavy. > > Thanks Joe ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:13:28 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: fsj: Re: police push bars - seattle, wa I hate it when those trees jump out in front of you like that! - --Vince '81 Wagoneer - ----- Original Message ----- From: "john" To: "full size jeep list" Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 3:07 PM Subject: fsj: police push bars - seattle, wa > I've got a pair of those police bars... have 'em connected > with a piece of pipe... had 'em on the little wagoneer... the > tree hit the Jeep two inches to the right of it... ;( totalled the > Jeep... > > anyway, I replaced 'em with an aussie bull bar and have had them > laying around for years. aint' light, but make me an offer and > cover shipping... > > john > > ---- > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!) > ** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net ** > Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold. > ...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended... > ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:25:18 -0500 From: JeepNut Subject: Re: fsj: 90 GW Changing Plugs Advice Hi Mr. Powell, If you've got big forearms, it'll be fun... I do all mine from the top. 3/8 ratchet, plug socket and 8" extension, but I don't use the extension where you might think you would. For instance, on the drivers side, you might think you can extension your way past all the brake lines and air tubing, but I have never been able to make things all line up right to get the things started with the ratchet and extension all assembled. Ususally I just use the extension as a handle to help start the threads without the ratchet attached. To actually tighten and loosen, it is the ratchet only with your hand all wormed through stuff to get to the ratchet handle. The back 2 on the other side are tough too but can be done from the top if your forearm isn't too big. The last one on the pass side can usually be done a lot easier from below. I avoid the universal's on the plug socket. I am too clumsy to keep from crossthreading the plugs with one of those things swimming around down there... Choice in plugs is the same a choice in underwear really. Various differnces in marketing hype, but they all pretty much get the job done IMHO. I've pretty much settled on AC Delco plugs. Have used NGK and Bosch in the past and noticed nothing dramatic if anything at all regarding peformance differences. Can't imagine paying $3-4 a plug for splitfire plugs, unless she's burning oil or something. I'll have to beg off on the air injection system. My truck is a southern vehicle and all that stuff is well preserved and functional KNOCK, KNOCK... JeepNut Michael Powell wrote: > > Hi folks, > I am doing my first tuneup on my recently acquired '90 GW. Sorry to bore you > with beginner stuff, but does anyone have any practical tips on changing > plugs? For starters(pun intended), some of the plugs do not look easy to > access. Should I approach all of them from the top of the motor? Is this > just a matter of having the right extensions and angle adapter on my socket > wrench? What are the best plugs to buy? > > On another note, I started to do the work on the air injector check valve > replacement. Should of guessed it, but the air injector manifolds are not in > the best shape either, and the check valves are locked on tight. I already > damaged one of the air injection manifolds without getting the check valve to > budge, even though I gunned it down with lots of liquid wrench beforehand. > Looks like I'll be replacing the air injection manifolds too. > > Mike > unrelated thread snipped... - -- - ---------------------------------------------------------------- '87 Street Comanche #24/100 '88 Grand Wagoneer ...and they say there's only one... '92 Cherokee - ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:01:03 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer A: The regulator is inside the alt (which was made by AC Delco of GMC) The Motorcraft box is your electronic ignition (IIRC, the NAPA part number is TP40 and I have several on my for sale pile) From: Grtdaneguy-at-aol.com   I was wondering? Can anyone tell me if the voltage regulator is built into the alternator? Also what is the square box that sits on the drivers side wheel well for. To me it looks like a voltage regulator but it's on the wrong side??? It's a motorcraft part, it has ridges on the top and is fairly heavy. Thanks Joe ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:09:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: fuel delivery A: I'm looking for one to work with my EFI setup with dual tanks. If you just have gas and 3 tanks w/o return lines, then a early '68-'70 Ford Camper special came stock with 3 tanks (2 under deck and one in the cab) 3/8" line is all they run with 460 motors. (I ran one in a non-original Hemi 6 pack '68 Dart that ran 10's in the 1/4 and drove to the track with water injection to not ping on premium gas) From: David Charles Gedraitis Hi list, It's not FSJ related, but I'm sure someone here could tell me. In the back of my '61 Newport, there are soon to be 2-15 gallon tanks (trunk configuration prevents me from getting one big one). I need a way to switch between tanks. More importantly, it needs to be able to have both the in lines and the out line be 1/2" in diameter. I am running quite the motor and anything smaller than a 1/2" fuel line will NOT provide enough fuel. I checked the airplane catalogues, but they were no help....soooo any thoughts? ~dave ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:17:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: [Re: fsj: Re: diff covers] From: Michael Shimniok >You can wire tie it on the fenderwell somewhere if you like. Make sure it doesn't rub against moving or hot parts. The only purpose is to allow the diff to vent air as it heats up and draw in air as it cools down and to do this without sucking in water during a water crossing. A: And nothing cools like water pouring over a diff! >The rear diff has a vent tube that unfortunately exits at one of the frame crossmembers under the bed but it has a check valve of sorts. It could probably stand to be rerouted to a higher point in the engine bay. A: My '83 Cherokee, '84 GW and '84 J10 vent behind the motor. (hoses are due for replacement though!) The trannies typically don't have vent tubes and probably could use 'em but I think it requires digging into the guts and having someone drill'n'tap and fill the old vent hole. A: The 727 vent is on top, and usually your feet would be very wet before it gets inside the trans! I have mine tied into the transfercase breather, and the new AW4 breather will be going there too! >The NP tcases seem to have vent tubes (above the rear output shaft) that lead up thru a hose and then steel tube to the firewall where it does an upsidedown u to help prevent water getting in. Michael A: A checkvalve cap on there doesn't hurt either! If it weren't for the smell, I'd hook it behind the dash! ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 21:19:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: RE: fuel delivery A: Get a 400 block and pop the 440 crank into it for REAL cubes! I had 526 out of mine (copy of the Pteradon racing team engine) From: David Charles Gedraitis I'm running a 361 with three holleys and nitrous. The 1/2" line goes into the regulator under the hood, and half of the fuel feeds the trips, the other half goes to the direct port nitrous injection. This car has been dyno'd at the high end of 400+ horses with the nitrous. With two fuel tanks though, I need to be able to switch between tanks, and still feed the demand to the mill. I just bought a 440, which will soon be built into a monstrous stroker (no replacement for displacement). Anyone got an 8-71 blower for sale? Speaking of which, any performance 440 parts or a nice 5 speed manual are needed if anyone has any leads... ~dave ************************************* JimBlair, Seattle,WA '84 J10, '86 Comanche http://www.geocities.com/eaglemania2002/ http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998 ************************************** ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 23:49:20 -0700 From: Mike Dillon Subject: fsj: Re:Re: diff covers Mike The front diff vent tube should have a clamp that holds it to the top left radiator mounting bolt. Mike D. > Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 10:02:24 -0400 > From: mike-at-tangledroots.com (Michael Powell) > Subject: Re: fsj: Re: diff covers > > I am a new owner of a '90 GW. I was wondering what the deal is with this > differential vent tube. I noticed that my front diff has the vent line but it > doesn't seem to be fastened into place anywhere other than where it mounts on > the diff. Is there a particular place I should add a nylon wire tie or > something to get the vent line secured into position? Should there be one of > these lines on the rear diff too? > > Thanks, > Mike > > Vince Orr wrote: > > > Yeah I have a vent tube, doesn't seem to get dirt in it but it is dirty all > > over and there is seepage where it fits into the differential. That always > > bothered me. Probably need to replace the hose. It fits into the top of > > the housing aft of the diff cover which is about as good a place as it could > > be put but I still think it could be improved on. > > ------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 23:28:22 -0600 From: "JC Jones" Subject: RE: fsj: 90 GW Changing Plugs Advice If you have the right tools it's an easy job. The rear passenger side plug takes a few seconds extra because you actually have to use a ratchet on that one. First of all, if you plan on doing this more than just once, get the right tools (you'll be glad you did). 1) Spark plug socket with integrated swivel 2) 4' 3/8" speed wrench 3) Stubby 3/8 ratchet with hinged head 4) Spark plug starting tool (avilable from MAC or MATTCO truck for about $4.00) 5) Spark plug gapper (I use a keychain quick gapper myself) You can reach all the plugs with the speed wrench and the swivel spark plug socket except the rear passenger side plug which you will need the stubby ratchet and the swivel spark plug socket to get to. You can use a section of vacuum hose to easily install the new plugs if you wish, but the starting tool is well worth the money because of it's nice grip and perfect size (either the starting tool or a section of vacuum line will absolutely guarantee that you will not crossthread a spark plug). In the pictures, notice the electrical tape on the Swivel Spark Plug Socket, it stiffens the joint and helps you put it where you want it easily without the joint flopping around all over the place. After you have done it a few times with the right tools, you should be able to change all 8 spark plugs in 10 minutes or less. Here are some links to pictures of the above mentioned tools: Swivel Spark Plug Socket http://www.wagoneer.net/tech/tools/SwivelSPSocket.jpg 3/8" Speed Wrench http://www.wagoneer.net/tech/tools/SpeedWrench.jpg Stubby Ratchet http://www.wagoneer.net/tech/tools/StubbyRatchet.jpg Spark Plug Starting Tool http://www.wagoneer.net/tech/tools/PlugThreader.jpg Spark Plug Gapper http://www.wagoneer.net/tech/tools/PlugGapper.jpg JC Jones ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:49:32 -0700 From: john Subject: re:fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer >Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 12:59:57 -0700 (PDT) >From: Greg Loxtercamp >Subject: Re: fsj: 1981 jeep wagoneer >The box labeled Motorcraft is your electronic ignition... >yes, the alt has an internal voltage regulator. Greg! you still on the list? I thought you parted with the gray ghost and had moved on to other wheels? Is Brad still on the list or did he get rid of his '82? I was just down in portland a week or two ago... in the WJ... waiting for SuperDawg's resto... guess he comes apart this weekend. :) Yee haw. I can hardly wait for it to be all done... I'm still gathering up the last few pieces, stereo components, carpeting and so on... engine/trans and xfr case are all down in olympia. the target date for completion is labor day. :) Strange how I'm hoping this summer goes by fast... ;) ttyl, john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:51:26 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re:pawtucket FSJ? At 09:41 PM 7/17/01 -0400, you wrote: >Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 18:02:16 EDT >From: BWFerg-at-aol.com >Subject: fsj: SELLING MY '83 WAG LTD :o( PART 2 > >Alright, NOBODY WANTS THE WAG!!!! SO, it's going in the Providence Journal >Bulletin, the Pawtucket Times and Truck Trader. I'm posting the info one more >time. Asking price is $1600. someone just bought parts from me off of ebay from there... just looked, he bought XJ parts... john - ------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 06:07:26 -0400 From: "B. C." Subject: Re: fsj: Check Valve Woes Greetings Mike! Michael Powell wrote: > "B. C." wrote: > > As for your loss of power, you may have a clogged catalytic converter. > > It might not be a bad idea to switch out to a high flow unit. You will > > feel a difference in performance. > > Where can I get the high flow catalytic converter you are referring to? > Will this affect gas mileage? I want to change out the exhaust components > before winter anyway. Do you have a recommendation for exhaust parts? I'd > like to replace everything from manifold to tailpipe. (ANSWER) What you are looking for is a good cat. back system. You should go with 2.5'' pipe, cat. and muffler. The anemic 2'' system really restricts your rigs ability to breathe. Get a good hi-flow cat, and muffler, designed for performance. Flowmaster makes some nice products. Stay away from the chain shops. They use the lowest grade pipe that will not last longer then a year. Stainless steel is your best bet for new pipes; but it is so expense. Any of the catalogs, like Jeggs or JC Whitney can help. Check your local phone book for independent exhaust shops. By doing this upgrade your loud petal will sound better, and your rig will feel like a new sprint runner, on mountain dew. plus if you can keep the loud petal tuned down, you will see an increase in your fuel economy. - -- Until The Next Dimension, Admiral "Coluch." Starfleet Headquarters Ohio Post END TRANSMISSION.................................... ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2001 06:40:17 -0500 From: "Vince Orr" Subject: fsj: Rez Passes Again The Rez Runner passed Illinois emmissions testing again (with flying colors)! It is always an adventure! The kid that serviced my FSJ was going to put it on that dyno-treadmill thing and I had to make a decision......do I tell them about full time Quadratrac or let them find out the hard way and enjoy the show? Well.........I like the Rez too much and figured I'd tell them. A supervisor came by and had me explain it to him. What I just couldn't believe is that they started to accuse me of "customizing" the vehicle, saying no one ever made full time 4WD in that era (1981). They had that nasty look on their faces and this was new. So I began my best Cliff Clavin impression and proceeded to rattle off specifications of my FSJ. Then I insinuated that their training has been less than exemplary and that could they please get on with this because I have an appointment to keep........and the sign out there said my wait time was only going to be 2 minutes...... Ha Ha........ I know they are just doing their jobs but I can't resist pulling the chain of the Illinois emmissions Nazi's. They've always been so unreasonable with me in the past. The percentage of cars that fail is small compared to all that they test. I feel this activity is just for show and costs the taxpayers of Illinois way too much money. License fees here are $78 per vehicle not to mention the $.30 upcharge per gallon of gas. The real polluters on the roads around here are the diesel dump trucks spewing out black smoke when they take off. If a diesel is running correctly, it should not spill out smoke like that. That should be an instant - go to check emmissions ticket in my book. I'd like to know how this sort of thing compares in other states like California. Stepping off soap box now. - --Vince '81 Wagoneer ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1387 **************************