From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Mon Apr 21 13:59:15 2003 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Monday, April 21 2003 Volume 01 : Number 1913 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: Questions to Ask On A 360 Engine Rebuild fsj: Re: Stepside fenders fsj: Re: xj: Transmission problem Fwd: fsj: the Hollander guide... fsj: 360 rebuild FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 23:28:57 -0700 From: "Jim B" Subject: Re: fsj: Questions to Ask On A 360 Engine Rebuild A: This discussion was on the AMC-list recently. General consensus was to make sure your motor is built in a shop specializing in AMC motors and not rebuilding to sloppy Chev specs! (Global engines can have a 360 motor to your doorstep with 5 year, 50,000 mile waranty if installed by pro mechanic) From: "Frazier Phillips" Subject: fsj: Questions to Ask On A 360 Engine Rebuild I plan to talk to a local shop Monday concerning rebuilding my 360 engine from my 86 GW. What are some good questions? I plan on a simple rebuild, nothing fancy. I do not expect any major problem. The engine is running fair. The valve guides are shot, leaks oil from the front and rear seals, and the oil pressure is lower than it use to be(<40 PSI). I talked to shop personnel a year ago and got some figures: $750 for rebuild kit and $750 for labor. I am doing the R&R. I did not ask what the rebuild kit consist of. I am assuming it is the usual, gaskets, rings, oil pump and timing chain. Anything else? I am also assuming that if anything major; like valves, pistons, it would be extra. Does this sound about right to you guys/gals? When I get the engine back I plan to add the TBI that John has mentioned on this site. Does this sound like a good plan? Shorty ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 14:10:32 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Stepside fenders $700 for the pair... should be able to include shipping in that price, need to check on packing material and freight costs. If you're interested please let me know, I'm heading up in a couple of weeks to get mine. john At 02:50 PM 4/20/2003 -0400, Ed Tapanes wrote: >John, > >Do you have a ballpark price for the reproduction fenders? > >Thanks, >Ed T. >----- Original Message ----- >From: John >To: Recipient list suppressed >Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2003 4:09 AM >Subject: [FSJ-List] 35x12.5's on alloy six lug rims, fenders, etc. > >my son removed his 35x12.5 Cooper Discoverer tires from >his Golden Eagle. They're mounted on alloy six lug rims... >He paid $750 for them and hasn't used them much. He put >his 31's back on and is planning on locking his Cherokee... >Asking $500, we'll deliver within a reasonable distance for >fuel costs... Figure as far north as Vancouver BC (Mission), >south as far as Portland, OR, east... spokane? west... well... >kind of limited by water in that direction... ;) > >I'll take pictures and post 'em on my server tomorrow if >I get time... They are good tires, plenty of tread, ride nice... > >FWIW, I'll be heading up to BC in a few weeks for those >J10 Fiberglass fenders, if you want to buy a pair contact >me ASAP so we can get an order in. If you are interested >in the tires I can bring them up with me as well. > >FSJ stickers are up on ebay again too: >http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34224&item=2411352833&rd=1 > >Still haven't had any interest in the '54 Chevy box... :( > >I'm going to go through my carport and office and start putting >up Tonkas and extra FSJ >items... http://wagoneers.com/tmp/tonkas/ >http://members.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aboutme/dieseljohn/ > >later, >john meister - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 14:21:51 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Re: xj: Transmission problem At 11:19 AM 4/20/2003 -0400, David Bongo wrote: >Once again, thanks for the information. ur welcome. :) >I'll be checking out replacement (upgrade) radiators for the Jeep over >the next week. And looking for a big transmission cooler. Let me ask >about that, too. I've heard that when you have a cooler you should just >run the fluid through the cooler. I've also heard that you should run >it through the radiator AND the cooler. The premise being "The extra >cooling can't hurt" plus "an extra quart (or whatever) of fluid is >always a good thing." Any thoughts on how to best route the tranny >fluid? Routing through the radiator isn't a bad idea because it helps warm up the tranny fluid, it shouldn't be too cold either... HOWEVER, there is a significant danger running through the rad in that if the cooler ever leaks you can get antifreeze in your Automatic, not a good thing. If you're upgrading to the better radiator it shouldn't be an issue, it's a very rare problem. In your situation I don't think you have to worry about over cooling your tranny. :) >Also, on the AW4 vs. 727 question. I wouldn't try to use a post-1980 >727 in the Cherokee. I would look for a pre-1980 (maybe even pre-1975) >to put in there. I have no clue about the salvage costs, though. I'm >hoping my AW4 isn't shot, but I'm not too hopeful on that score. I >think I mentioned that 1970's era DJ in my office with over 200K (if not >300K) mostly delivery miles on a rebuilt 727. Still working just fine. >That DJ saw, as of a few years ago 30K-40K miles PER YEAR of delivery The DJ is rather light compared to an FSJ... Plus, as you've pointed out, it's an older, "beefier" tranny that's being used. I still think the AW4 is the best tranny you can use, especially considering all the other issues of switching an XJ to a th727.. it's NOT a direct bolt in. Remember your 4.0L has computers controlling things... and your xfr case will NOT bolt up to the TF727... I just spent over $300 building a custom adapter to mate an AW4 to an NP219. Although going the other way may involve less... but spline count will be an issue... and the case, starter location, what to do about your crank position sensor, etc... john >and hasn't really hiccuped. It's on lighter duty now. Only about 15K >delivery miles per year. >Thanks for the help. >Dave - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://www.WAGONEERS.com/ Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... jesus, don't leave life without him, please! - ------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2003 23:36:52 EDT From: JPhil78888-at-aol.com Subject: Fwd: fsj: the Hollander guide... Some times you can pick up the Hollander books on Ebay for a decent price. I have a copy of the 52nd edition ($75) that appears to cover from '86 back to the early '70s (some catagories go back farther). I also picked up a newer paper edition ($100) for my uncle a while back. Can't remember what edition though. Unfortunately, it seems geared more towards exact replacement instead of what will work. Later, Jamie Phillips '73 Return-Path: Received: from rly-yb02.mx.aol.com (rly-yb02.mail.aol.com [172.18.146.2]) by air-yb04.mail.aol.com (v92.17) with ESMTP id MAILINYB41-38c53e9e3032198; Thu, 17 Apr 2003 00:40:19 2000 Received: from krusty-motorsports.com (krusty-motorsports.com [192.94.170.8]) by rly-yb02.mx.aol.com (v92.16) with ESMTP id MAILRELAYINYB22-17e3e9e302c14a; Thu, 17 Apr 2003 00:40:13 -0400 Received: from majordomo by krusty-motorsports.com with local (Exim 4.14) id 1961Bl-0002sA-J2 for fsj-out-at-digest.net; Thu, 17 Apr 2003 04:39:57 +0000 Message-Id: <5.2.0.9.2.20030416213252.00b3c668-at-wagoneers.com> X-Sender: john-at-wagoneers.com (Unverified) X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Version 5.2.0.9 Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 21:39:37 -0700 To: (Recipient list suppressed) From: john Subject: fsj: the Hollander guide... Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net Precedence: bulk Reply-To: john good news, found the Hollander Interchange Manual web page... bad news, "only" $795.00 for the complete windows version... However, it's only $99.95 for the domestic version in paper for 1965-1979 vehicles... Too bad they don't offer something in the 1974 through 1992 range to cover the SJ and XJ model Jeeps. :) Anyone familiar with the 1965-1979 domestic version? Would it be useful for working on Full Size Jeeps? http://www.adphollander.com/products/hollander.html https://https.kinetic.com/adp/orderform.html thanx, john ============= - ------------------------------------------------------------------ http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/Filter_INFORMATION/air_filter-1.jpg http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/Filter_INFORMATION/air_filter-2.jpg SJ Jeeps: 360/401: TS-23 258: TS-12 retail $21.50 XJ Jeeps: 4.0L/2.5L('87 and up): TS-29 retail $29.95 WJ Jeeps: 4.7L: TS-104 retail $47.50 DieselBenz: typical S1118 or S1680 retail $32.50 or $39.85 http://wagoneers.com/AMSOIL/ order 1-800-956-5695 cust# 283461 Snohomish, WA, where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... - ----------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2003 08:38:43 -0700 From: Tesar Landon-r16884 Subject: fsj: 360 rebuild Bingo on the cam bearings, John. Also I suggest replacing the pistons. Piston to cylinder wall clearance is a good thing to correct once you've got the block bare. This will add many miles to your rebuild, and reduce blowby. You don't need any fancy pistons. Be sure to check the end play on the crankshaft, it may be that you'll need a new crankshaft (sorry!) kind of a waste to polish a bad one and put it back in. You may look at some mods for upper end oil flow. Probably worth the $100 or so it will add. Also, check for wear in the timing cover where the oil pump sits. If you've had overheating, surfacing the heads might be good. Should at least be checked for cracks and planarity. - - Landon 89 GW Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2003 20:39:46 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Questions to Ask On A 360 Engine Rebuild sounds like a good plan, but I'd check on the cam bearings or journals or whatever they ride in as that will affect the oil pressure... not sure what's going on there or how they're dealt with without reaching up and grabbing a shop manual, and I just don't have the time or energy right now to do that... ;) gotta run, john At 04:40 PM 4/19/2003 -0400, Frazier Phillips wrote: >I plan to talk to a local shop Monday concerning rebuilding my 360 engine >from my 86 GW. What are some good questions? >I plan on a simple rebuild, nothing fancy. I do not expect any major >problem. The engine is running fair. The valve guides are shot, leaks oil >from the front and rear seals, and the oil pressure is lower than it use to >be(<40 PSI). >I talked to shop personnel a year ago and got some figures: $750 for rebuild >kit and $750 for labor. I am doing the R&R. >I did not ask what the rebuild kit consist of. I am assuming it is the >usual, gaskets, rings, oil pump and timing chain. Anything else? >I am also assuming that if anything major; like valves, pistons, it would be >extra. >Does this sound about right to you guys/gals? >When I get the engine back I plan to add the TBI that John has mentioned on >this site. >Does this sound like a good plan? > >Shorty ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #1913 **************************