From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Tue Aug 12 08:48:41 2003
From: fsj-digest <owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net>
fsj-digest Tuesday, August 12 2003 Volume 01 : Number 1991
Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps
Brian Colucci <ABCvoice-at-worldnet.att.net>
Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Re: fsj: tire opinions sought...
fsj: Re: 83 Jeep Wagoneer
Re: fsj: Manifold question
Re: fsj: tire opinions sought...
fsj: My Dana 44 knuckles posted on EBay
fsj: vac lines - 229 xfer case
fsj: Driveshaft needed ASAP
fsj: dropped the price on FSJ stickers
fsj: Re: FWD: First Post-- Engine Swap potential..Email from Cummins
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Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 08:33:32 -0700
From: "Jim B" <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: tire opinions sought...
A: I would run the Z rated (much higher rating than H) Aqua-tread upgrades. I
had those on my wife's Maxima wagon for 5 years and they were still in decent
shape when we sold the car. With all the rain we normally get here, that big
rain groove in the middle makes them handle like you have 8 tires on the road
instead of 4.
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: fsj: tire opinions sought...
I think I've mentioned my bias on tires (no pun intended),
but I want to hear what others would suggest for the PNW.
This is going on my '91 300d, it has the wrong size tires on
it right now. It's unlikely I'd drive it in snow,
unless I got caught at work. Mostly wet road, cool climate.
top speed of car is 121mph, tire size is: 195/65-15
seems like H rated is what's required.
http://wagoneers.com/DieselBenz/91-300d-2.5L/
Looking for good handling, ride comfort, longevity and
good wet road characteristics.
I'll listen, and not reply.
thanx for your suggestions, opinions and thoughts. :)
What would you select? and why?
thanx,
john
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 08:13:49 -0700
From: "Jim B" <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: fsj: Re: 83 Jeep Wagoneer
A: The front springs will need beefing up for a diesel engine as well. One of
the listers (that I can't think of the name of right now) out in Alberta,
Canada finally finished his conversion while we were on our trip to Ouray. His
stock springs bottomed out and nearly broke on the first big bump he hit. I
still plan to one day convert an XJ to Nissan turbo 3.3L diesel (since they
used the same AW trans, it should be pretty easy) They even came stock in
Jtrucks down under, but were considered quite anemic (they weren't turbo mind
you! I think they were the 2.8L inline 6 as well)
At 09:14 AM 8/10/2003 -0700, Bob Matharu wrote:
>Hi John,
>
>I found your article online about finding a diesel engine for a wagoneer.
>I am also interested in converting my 83' Jeep Wagoneer to a diesel
>engine. How are you making out? Have you changed to a diesel engine
>before? If so, I am looking for any information on how to do it.
well... I never did it. Old Blue was too nice of a rig and after
getting him working I decided to sell him instead of finishing that
project. Sold the parts I had.
I'm currently putting a '96 XJ's 4.0L into my '83 J10 stepside. I
decided to go with the Jeep 4.0L because of it's durability and
power. Going to a Diesel in my stepside would have been ok, but
I decided not to go that route.
I do drive a Mercedes Diesel every day, love it... and have visions
of dropping a 3.0L Turbo Diesel into a Willys Pickup someday. At this
point, it's still just a dream. The reality of having a Diesel Jeep
isn't a near term one. I did have an '85 Cherokee with the 2.1L Turbo
Diesel and it was nice. 26mpg in town, 32mpg on the freeway. Problem
was it was gutless, couldn't tow, had a manual transmission (bad back)
and the French motor was expensive to get parts for. If it would have
had an automatic I'd probably still have it. :)
They are supposedly putting the Diesel in the KJ and hopefully later
the WJ. They sell them overseas already. We got rid of our '99 WJ
and if I could swing it I'd buy a new WJ with a Diesel, not sure my
wife would want to give up having a 4.7L V8 though... that's a sweet
motor. :)
As far as how to do the conversion, it's pretty straight forward.
Make sure the engine you select mates to the transmission, which
mates to the transfer cases and that the driveshafts will work.
I prefer to leave the transfer case in place and build around it that
way I don't have to modify driveshaft lengths or worry about angles.
You don't always have that luxury.
The next thing is the radiator/cooling. look at where the hoses
go.
Fuel system will require a return line, Diesel circulates through
the system.
You'll probably want to do some soundproofing. :)
If I were going to do it I'd consider the 6.5L TD, but only after
researching it's problems. An old Ford PU with a Diesel might be
ok too... research, research, research... then shop, shop, shop...
Converting from one engine to another will take more time then you
expect and you'll run into several "gotchas" along the way. Be
prepared.
Figure at least six months if you have all the parts and a place
to do it. Don't be discouraged. There are solutions to any problem.
Don't let the naysayers and skeptics talk you out of it. :)
And I'm going to shut up now before I call my buddy that has that Willys
PU with no engine... ;)
btw, you'll probably want to get on the fsj list for moral support...
there are several to chose from... I mainly hang out on digest.net.
ttyl,
john meister
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 08:42:14 -0700
From: "Jim B" <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Manifold question
A: It should've been sandwiched metal and fiber. Too bad you're already so far
along because if you switched to a 4.0L exhaust manifold and '80 or newer
intake with 2 bbl carb, you would REALLY see a power difference! If you split
the exhaust, make sure you add a crossover pipe at the sweet spot, or you'll
lose about 10% of your HP and torque will be moved WAY up the power band. The
6 cyls use the draw of the other cyl's exhaust to clean out the pipes and
allow room for more fresh air/fuel mix into the cyl.
The manifolds tend to come loose because the hanger that attaches to the
trnasmission bellhousing gets taken off, and the pipe swings back and forth,
and stretches the bolts. Grade 8 studs in the place of the bolts seems to work
for me! (the later ones did this from the factory for a couple years -at-'83,
then went back to bolts -at-'86)
Got any airline friends? I'm near Sea-Tac International airport and for $50
USD I can drop off the 4.0L exhaust I have to them when they come in (wrapped
in plastic) and they can take it as check in.
From: Joe Morrison <warrigal-at-chariot.net.au>
Subject: fsj: Manifold question
Hi folks
Just removed an split the manifolds on my 6-258 motor to discover that the
joint between them at the heat riser was a cork gasket. This can't be right.
Could someone tell me what is normally used here? Metal or fibre? I'll
probably have to make something myself.
Also all of the bolts holding the manifold to the head were only just
holding.
Any suggestions how I can make them more secure?
Thanks for any tips.
Joe Morrison
Port Lincoln
South Australia
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 08:50:43 -0700
From: "Jim B" <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: tire opinions sought...
Sorry. Goodyear made them originally, and I forget the name of the knockoff
company that bought the molds. (they're what we bought from Discount Tire) Z
rated is the speed at which you can run at sustained speeds w/o worrying about
blowouts. Z is 150 mph IIRC. Aquatread is the type. (most tire shops around
here will know what you mean)
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Aquatred+
3
John wrote:
Z rated what? what brand, type?
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 10:00:10 -0700
From: "Jim B" <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: fsj: My Dana 44 knuckles posted on EBay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2427476947
note that they are Ford 3/4 1 ton, not GM/Dodge/FSJ
Jim Blair, Seattle, WA '84 J10 Black Jack (getting lifted and stroked!), '73
J4000 304/TH400/QT tow truck (it's alive!!), '83 Eagle wagon (soon to be
modified!)http://www.virtualjeep.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 11:14:10 -0700
From: "Faith Jeff" <Jeff.Faith-at-rxsol.com>
Subject: fsj: vac lines - 229 xfer case
hi folks-
i'm finally ready to deal with my xfer-case problem in my 90 gw. for the
last week or two i've been dealing with a NEW water pump, the smog pump, and
decided to put in a NEW fuel pump since i was that far into it again. the
rebuilt motor sounds really nice now..the smog pump made it sound like a
diesel/machine-gun/jackhammer.... according to an after-market gauge my oil
pressure is strong, which is good because the front cover was suspected to
be a problem when installing the oil pump.
anyway, the trans shop told me to check the xfer-case vac lines before i
take it for them to check out.
how does a person check those lines? what kind of tool/technique....also
which should draw vac and when? the 4wd light on the dash stays lit whether
or not the switch is in 2 or 4.
also i guessed which two connectors went to the front and top of the
shift-motor....i may have switched them. anyone know the correct routing? i
think i put the red line on the front of the vac motor, and the green one on
the side/top of it...
thanks,
jeff
so-cal
90 gw (almost drivable)
63 wag (almost drivable)
67 j2k (almost drivable)
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------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 21:36:58 -0700
From: "Jim B" <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: fsj: Driveshaft needed ASAP
I need a rear driveshaft for my '73 J4000 that is -at-60" collapsed. I just put a
Dana 60 in and the Dana 44 driveshaft won't fit now! The current one is 64"
collapsed and will barely fit with the truck lifted with the wheels up and pry
barred in, but shoves the transfercase ahead as soon as I let it down (it was
too long for the Dana 44 setup as well I found out. That's why my trans mount
keeps coming loose and I get thumps against the floor when the truck is loaded
and I hit bumps)
Jim Blair, Seattle, WA '84 J10 Black Jack (getting lifted and stroked!), '73
J4000 304/TH400/QT tow truck (it's alive!!), '83 Eagle wagon (soon to be
modified!)http://www.virtualjeep.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 11 Aug 2003 22:53:58 -0700
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: fsj: dropped the price on FSJ stickers
just lowered the price on the FSJ logo stickers from
$5/pair to $4 a pair... buy direct, or via ebay,
postage included. :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2427765740
http://www.wagoneers.com/FSJ/decal.html
enjoy,
john meister
- ------------------------------------------------------------------
http://www.WAGONEERS.com/
Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold...
Jesus, don't leave life without him, please!
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 12 Aug 2003 08:39:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: fsj: Re: FWD: First Post-- Engine Swap potential..Email from Cummins
I went down and talked to the reps in Renton at
Cummins when I was repowering my '67 Wag back in the late
'80's. They were quite helpful and if I recall correctly,
suggested a B series 4 cylinder used in the UPS trucks
at the time...
john
On Tue, 12 Aug 2003, Jim B wrote:
>--> From: "nstag8r2000" <csaums-at-hotmail.com>
>-->Subject: First Post-- Engine Swap potential..Email from Cummins.
>-->
>-->Hi group. I am new to this forum and I have recently become the
>-->owner of a 79 wagoneer. On a whim I sent an email off to the factory
>-->reps at Cummins Diesel, my grandfater worked for Cummins for 30
>-->years, they sent me this response that I thought you would enjoy
>-->reading about the engine I was looking at.. called the ISB 170 4cyl.
>-->They really seem like a nice group of individuals...
>-->
>-->
>-->
>-->---start email message---
>-->
>-->Summary: jeep repower ISB 170
>-->
>-->Solution:
>-->Thank you for your email Christian, as well as for your interest and
>-->support of Cummins Power. We do not have a program at Cummins for
>-->repowering Jeep vehicles. You would need to talk to one of our
>-->authorized service providers in
>-->your area, for complete details and options on Cummins A or B series
>-->engines, or the newer ISB engines.
>-->
>-->The Cummins A series ratings are well below your target HP, but we
>-->include them
>-->FYI:
>-->
>--> A2300 60 hp -at- 2800 rpm 135 lb-ft -at- 1600
>-->rpm
>-->turbocharged
>--> A2300 50 " -at- " " 111 "
>-->-at- " "
>-->naturally aspirated
>--> A2000 45 " -at- " " 102 "
>-->-at- " "
>-->" "
>--> A1700 37 " -at- " " 82 "
>-->-at- " "
>-->" "
>--> A1400 31 " -at- " " 69 "
>-->-at- " "
>-->" "
>--> A900 18 " -at- " " 38 "
>-->-at- " "
>-->" "
>-->
>-->A series - Vital Statistics
>-->
>--> Model Displacement Bore
>-->Stroke
>-->Weight Height
>-->A2300 T 2.29 liters (140 cu in) 88mm(3.46 in) 94mm(3.70 in) 200
>-->kg(441 lb)
>-->650 mm(25.6 in)
>-->A2300
>-->NA " " " " " " " " " " "
>-->"
>-->" 195 " (430 lb) 612 " (24.1 in)
>-->A2000 2.08 " (127 " " ) 84 "
>-->(3.31 " ) " " " "
>-->" " ( " " ) " " " "
>-->A1700 1.71 " (104 " " ) 88 "
>-->(3.46 " ) " " " "
>-->175 " (386 " ) " " " "
>-->A1400 1.46 " ( 89 " " ) 84 " (3.31 " ) 88 "
>-->(3.46 " )
>-->" " ( " " ) " " " "
>-->A900 .88 " ( 54 " " ) 72 " (2.83 " ) 72 "
>-->(2.83 " )
>-->115 " (254 " ) 550 " (21.7 " )
>-->
>-->Some customers and independent shops have used the Cummins 4BT3.9
>-->engine, which
>-->has less hp and torque than the 6-cylinder version. The 4BT3.9 is
>-->rated 130 hp
>-->with peak torque of 327 lb-ft. The 4BT3.9 engine is rated at 2500 rpm
>-->with peak
>-->torque at 1700 rpm. The engine weighs 570 pounds (dry). The 4BT3.9
>-->engine
>-->dimensions are:
>-->
>-->Total height: 35.6 inches
>-->Total length: 30.1 inches
>-->Total width: 22.9 inches
>-->
>-->Also keep in mind that the Cummins engine operates in a slower rpm
>-->range than
>-->your Jeep engine, which might require a rear axle ratio change, to
>-->make the
>-->truck driveable. For smaller vehicles, these engines can end up
>-->being too heavy
>-->for ideal application, not to mention that custom installations
>-->require near-fab
>-->shop capability.
>-->
>-->Cummins B5.9 engines are certified by the EPA as 'heavy duty' diesels
>-->(8600 GVWR
>-->and above), therefore, we could not recommend our engines be
>-->installed in a
>-->vehicle less than 8600 GVWR, since they are not EPA-approved for on-
>-->highway use.
>-->We believe this also applies to the B3.9 engine as well.
>-->
>-->The 4- and 6-cylinder ISB engines are 4 valve/cylinder variants of
>-->the earlier
>-->engines but also have electronic fuel systems; this would complicate
>-->a ^Srepower^T
>-->since one would then need a more complex engine harness and other
>-->inputs not
>-->required on the hydramechanical engines.
>-->
>-->If you buy an engine from one of our authorized dealers or
>-->distributors, the
>-->engine warranty is valid from Cummins. You need to discuss with them
>-->when the
>-->warranty period will start, because it usually starts on trucks when
>-->the vehicle
>-->is ready for the customer to use. If a date is not established, then
>-->the date of
>-->purchase would start the warranty clock. The four cylinder ISB
>-->weighs over
>-->700#'s FYI.
>-->
>-->Your Boise distributor branch will have "Options" catalogs which will
>-->define different housings, adapters, flywheels, etc, for application
>-->with different transmissions. If you're serious about this "major
>-->project" get with them and they'll help you sort through the details.
>-->
>-->We are aware of a dealer that specializes in high performance engines
>-->and products and may be able to supply you with an engine or
>-->information to meet your special needs, that sells some repower kits
>-->for GM/Chevy/Ford repowers:
>-->
>-->PRF Fleet Supply
>-->808 BLUE MOUND RD
>-->FORT WORTH TX 76131-1023
>-->800-998-3033
>-->817-232-5112, FAX
>-->General Information: Glenn Hudson / gchudson-at-swbell.net
>-->Sales: Michael SeChrist / prfsales-at-swbell.net
>-->Website: www.prffleet.com <http://www.prffleet.com> This is 'dated'
>-->info and
>-->may no longer be valid.
>-->
>-->We thank you for your interest in Cummins products. Please let us
>-->know if you need assistance in locating the nearest Cummins-
>-->authorized Dealer or Distributor Service Provider. For assistance in
>-->locating a Service Provider, feel free to use Cummins North America
>-->Dealer Locator, which can be found on Cummins website:
>-->
>-->http://www.cummins.com/service_locator/index.cfm
>-->
>-->Please let us know if you have other questions and if away from your
>-->computer or have a time-critical request that needs more urgent
>-->attention, feel free to call us toll-free (from North America) at 1-
>-->800-DIESELS (343-7357). Customers may also call Cummins switchboard 1-
>-->812-377-5000 (worldwide toll call) and ask for
>-->the ^S800-DIESELS Call Center^T for assistance.
>-->
>-->Email direct: powermaster-at-cummins.com
>-->
>-->Regards,
>-->--
>-->Powermaster
>-->Customer Assistance Center
>-->Cummins, Inc.
>-->Columbus, Indiana, USA
>-->
----
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
** http://wagoneers.com ** ** http://freegift.net **
Snohomish, Washington USA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold.
...and remember, leaving life without Jesus just isn't recommended...
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
** john-at-wagoneers.com via PINE on Linux ** (plain text please!)
The revolt is underway, you can not stop it. FEAR THE PENGUIN!!!!
May the SOURCE be With GNU
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
End of fsj-digest V1 #1991
**************************