From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sat Aug 25 23:20:34 2007 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Sunday, August 26 2007 Volume 01 : Number 2908 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: jailed for having junk in his yard fsj: 4.0L head 0331 cracks (fwd) RE: fsj: 4.0L head 0331 cracks (fwd) RE: fsj: 4.0L head 0331 cracks (fwd) fsj: junkyarding FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 08:11:46 -0700 From: "Jim Blair" Subject: fsj: jailed for having junk in his yard http://www.kirotv.com/news/13956493/detail.html?treets=sea&tml=sea_nots&ts=T&tmi=sea_nots_1_01000608232007 or http://tinyurl.com/ytxurv Jim Blair, Kirkland, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10, '73 J4000 (RIP)
_________________________________________________________________ Now you can see trouble^Ebefore he arrives http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_protection_0507 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:08:50 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: 4.0L head 0331 cracks (fwd) not sure if this info is documented, but it sounds correct... when I was selling the '92 block and head the buyer had me check the casting numbers and then bought it for a stroker setup. anyway, this info might help someone with a 4.0L on the wj, xj or sj lists... thanx for sharing jim. john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Jim Blair Re: 0331 head casting crack -- repair/prevention? Posted by: "Dino Savva" dinosavva_no1-at-hotmail.com dinosavva_no1 Date: Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:05 am ((PDT)) Frank, Don't even bother trying to strengthen the 0331 head. The 2000 (and some 2001) castings were flawed from the time they left the factory. I've lost count of the number of 0331 heads that have cracked in the last few years and DC really should have issued a recall to replace the flawed heads. I find it very hard to believe that they didn't know about this issue. This wasn't a single bad batch of heads either. Bad 0331 heads have also found their way to the Arabian Gulf region and I've seen three with my own eyes. Most them crack beyond the 60,000 mile mark (when the warranty has expired) and some have cracked after more than 100,000 miles. The 2002+ heads seem to be crack-free but since most of them haven't passed the 60,000 mile mark yet, it's too early to tell whether the manufacturers actually fixed the head cracking problem sometime in 2001. Without exception, all of the heads have cracked on the top between the no.3 and no.4 exhaust valve springs where the head is hottest. At first the crack is only superficial and doesn't cause any problem. With more miles, the crack extends deeper and when it reaches the water jacket, that's when the coolant starts mixing with the oil and the classical "mystery coolant loss" manifests itself as the first sign. Left unchecked, the oil becomes so contaminated that main/rod bearing failure eventually occurs. Some guys have tried welding the cracks but this only provides a temporary bandaid fix, and welding cast iron isn't easy because of the very high temperatures required. Epoxy or JB Weld will, again, only provide a temporary bandaid fix at best if they even fix the problem at all. The cracks eventually reopen again and you're back to square one. The only good solution is to swap an earlier 0630 or 7120 head in place. In my mind, the 0331 head castings from the year 2000 are only useful as 60lb paperweights. Dino - --- In strokers-at-yahoogroups.com, "f_swygert" wrote: The head I recently bought sight unseen turns out to be a 2000 0331 casting. The engine succumbed to a rod or main bearing failure. could have been coolant in the oil -- there was a good bit of sludge build-up under the valve cover. At least I didn't give to much for it! Will get it checked for cracks if I don't see anything obvious. Seems like 3 out of 4 crack by 60-70K miles. I've heard of heat welding between #3 and #4 cylinders (on top, between the rocker pedestals of the two exhaust valves) on rebuilt 0331 castings. Anyone tried epoxy? If this one isn't cracked I was thinking about cleaning and building up the area with a high strength epoxy like JB Weld and sticking it on. If it's cracked I'll either junk it or try fixing and use it on my truck, but not my stroker. Might do that anyway now that I know it could crack! Won't hurt so much to lose a 1983 98K mile 258. Hmmm.... think I just talked myself into doing just that! Chances are if it's not cracked it will be eventually. Would still like opinions on the epoxy strengthening/repair. My understanding is this is usually a very small crack that only opens up and leaks when the engine is at full operating temp and water pressure, or close to it. _________________________________________________________________ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 16:21:36 +0000 From: "michel balea" Subject: RE: fsj: 4.0L head 0331 cracks (fwd) Where is the casting # for the head.... thank you Michel From: john not sure if this info is documented, but it sounds correct... when I was selling the '92 block and head the buyer had me check the casting numbers and then bought it for a stroker setup. anyway, this info might help someone with a 4.0L on the wj, xj or sj lists... thanx for sharing jim. john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- - ---------- Forwarded message ---------- From: Jim Blair Re: 0331 head casting crack -- repair/prevention? Posted by: "Dino Savva" dinosavva_no1-at-hotmail.com dinosavva_no1 Date: Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:05 am ((PDT)) Frank, Don't even bother trying to strengthen the 0331 head. The 2000 (and some 2001) castings were flawed from the time they left the factory. I've lost count of the number of 0331 heads that have cracked in the last few years and DC really should have issued a recall to replace the flawed heads. I find it very hard to believe that they didn't know about this issue. This wasn't a single bad batch of heads either. Bad 0331 heads have also found their way to the Arabian Gulf region and I've seen three with my own eyes. Most them crack beyond the 60,000 mile mark (when the warranty has expired) and some have cracked after more than 100,000 miles. The 2002+ heads seem to be crack-free but since most of them haven't passed the 60,000 mile mark yet, it's too early to tell whether the manufacturers actually fixed the head cracking problem sometime in 2001. Without exception, all of the heads have cracked on the top between the no.3 and no.4 exhaust valve springs where the head is hottest. At first the crack is only superficial and doesn't cause any problem. With more miles, the crack extends deeper and when it reaches the water jacket, that's when the coolant starts mixing with the oil and the classical "mystery coolant loss" manifests itself as the first sign. Left unchecked, the oil becomes so contaminated that main/rod bearing failure eventually occurs. Some guys have tried welding the cracks but this only provides a temporary bandaid fix, and welding cast iron isn't easy because of the very high temperatures required. Epoxy or JB Weld will, again, only provide a temporary bandaid fix at best if they even fix the problem at all. The cracks eventually reopen again and you're back to square one. The only good solution is to swap an earlier 0630 or 7120 head in place. In my mind, the 0331 head castings from the year 2000 are only useful as 60lb paperweights. Dino - --- In strokers-at-yahoogroups.com, "f_swygert" wrote: The head I recently bought sight unseen turns out to be a 2000 0331 casting. The engine succumbed to a rod or main bearing failure. could have been coolant in the oil -- there was a good bit of sludge build-up under the valve cover. At least I didn't give to much for it! Will get it checked for cracks if I don't see anything obvious. Seems like 3 out of 4 crack by 60-70K miles. I've heard of heat welding between #3 and #4 cylinders (on top, between the rocker pedestals of the two exhaust valves) on rebuilt 0331 castings. Anyone tried epoxy? If this one isn't cracked I was thinking about cleaning and building up the area with a high strength epoxy like JB Weld and sticking it on. If it's cracked I'll either junk it or try fixing and use it on my truck, but not my stroker. Might do that anyway now that I know it could crack! Won't hurt so much to lose a 1983 98K mile 258. Hmmm.... think I just talked myself into doing just that! Chances are if it's not cracked it will be eventually. Would still like opinions on the epoxy strengthening/repair. My understanding is this is usually a very small crack that only opens up and leaks when the engine is at full operating temp and water pressure, or close to it. _________________________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ Booking a flight? Know when to buy with airfare predictions on MSN Travel. http://travel.msn.com/Articles/aboutfarecast.aspx&ocid=T001MSN25A07001 ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2007 09:57:52 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: RE: fsj: 4.0L head 0331 cracks (fwd) it's on the side of the head, I'll try to take a picture of the long block I have... I think it's visible with the valve cover on, not sure... will look if I remember... have a midterm tonight, class all day tomorrow... remind me about tuesday next week if you haven't heard from me. john ----- - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** - ---------------------------------------------------------------------- On Fri, 24 Aug 2007, michel balea wrote: # # Where is the casting # for the head.... # # thank you # # Michel # # From: john # # not sure if this info is documented, but it # sounds correct... when I was selling the '92 # block and head the buyer had me check the casting # numbers and then bought it for a stroker setup. # # anyway, this info might help someone with a 4.0L on # the wj, xj or sj lists... thanx for sharing jim. # # john # # ----- # ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # http://freegift.com ** http://wagoneers.com ** # ---------------------------------------------------------------------- # # ---------- Forwarded message ---------- # From: Jim Blair # Re: 0331 head casting crack -- repair/prevention? # Posted by: "Dino Savva" dinosavva_no1-at-hotmail.com # dinosavva_no1 Date: Fri Aug 24, 2007 3:05 am ((PDT)) # # Frank, # Don't even bother trying to strengthen the 0331 head. The 2000 # (and some 2001) castings were flawed from the time they left the # factory. I've lost count of the number of 0331 heads that have cracked in # the last few years and DC really should have issued a recall to # replace the flawed heads. I find it very hard to believe that they # didn't know about this issue. This wasn't a single bad batch of heads # either. Bad 0331 heads have also found their way to the Arabian Gulf # region and I've seen three with my own eyes. # Most them crack beyond the 60,000 mile mark (when the warranty # has # expired) and some have cracked after more than 100,000 miles. # The # 2002+ heads seem to be crack-free but since most of them haven't # passed the 60,000 mile mark yet, it's too early to tell whether # the # manufacturers actually fixed the head cracking problem sometime # in # 2001. # Without exception, all of the heads have cracked on the top # between # the no.3 and no.4 exhaust valve springs where the head is # hottest. # At first the crack is only superficial and doesn't cause any # problem. With more miles, the crack extends deeper and when it # reaches the water jacket, that's when the coolant starts mixing # with # the oil and the classical "mystery coolant loss" manifests # itself as # the first sign. Left unchecked, the oil becomes so contaminated # that # main/rod bearing failure eventually occurs. # Some guys have tried welding the cracks but this only provides a # temporary bandaid fix, and welding cast iron isn't easy because # of # the very high temperatures required. Epoxy or JB Weld will, # again, # only provide a temporary bandaid fix at best if they even fix # the # problem at all. The cracks eventually reopen again and you're # back # to square one. The only good solution is to swap an earlier 0630 # or # 7120 head in place. # In my mind, the 0331 head castings from the year 2000 are only # useful as 60lb paperweights. # # Dino # # # --- In strokers-at-yahoogroups.com, "f_swygert" wrote: # # The head I recently bought sight unseen turns out to be a 2000 # 0331 # casting. The engine succumbed to a rod or main bearing failure. # could have been coolant in the oil -- there was a good bit of # sludge # build-up under the valve cover. At least I didn't give to much # for # it! Will get it checked for cracks if I don't see anything # obvious. # Seems like 3 out of 4 crack by 60-70K miles. # # I've heard of heat welding between #3 and #4 cylinders (on top, # between the rocker pedestals of the two exhaust valves) on # rebuilt # 0331 castings. Anyone tried epoxy? If this one isn't cracked I # was # thinking about cleaning and building up the area with a high # strength epoxy like JB Weld and sticking it on. # # If it's cracked I'll either junk it or try fixing and use it on # my # truck, but not my stroker. Might do that anyway now that I know # it # could crack! Won't hurt so much to lose a 1983 98K mile 258. # Hmmm.... think I just talked myself into doing just that! # Chances # are if it's not cracked it will be eventually. # # Would still like opinions on the epoxy strengthening/repair. My # understanding is this is usually a very small crack that only # opens # up and leaks when the engine is at full operating temp and water # pressure, or close to it. # # _________________________________________________________________ # # _________________________________________________________________ # Booking a flight? Know when to buy with airfare predictions on MSN Travel. # http://travel.msn.com/Articles/aboutfarecast.aspx&ocid=T001MSN25A07001 # # ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 25 Aug 2007 23:14:49 -0700 From: "Jim Blair" Subject: fsj: junkyarding Worked till 4:30 today, then zipped over to Lynnwood, WA's very own Pull a Part yard (because during summer they are open till 7 PM) I had planned on getting the trans crossbar from a full size Cherokee(to mod for my '83 J10's AW4 conversion because I don't want to hack up the T5 one) Sad to say they crushed it a week ago (it had been picked pretty clean) and the only rig they have now is a '71-72 Wagoneer with a 304/TH400 (with adapter ring) and Dana 20 and that cross bar is the same as the one in my '73 J4000 (doesn't have the extra braces like my J10's do, so the bolt pattern may be different too) I figured out that the crossbar has to be moved back (or modified) to clear the trans pan. The holes for the upper part are 4" apart, so I'm moving it back to there and only having to redrill 3 holes on each side (one is off the end of the inner frame plate on each side, so some welding/fabbing will be needed later)That puts the mount pretty much dead center of the crossbar. I got one driveshaft done in the J10 last night (I need a longer double cardan one for the front but I have a single joint one for now) so I am getting close to running with it. (I need it moving so I can move to my new place) Anyways, back to the junkyard: I did get a trans crossbar with transfercase brace from an AW4 Comanche (to put into my '87 MJ when I do the auto and finish the 4x4 conversion on it soon. I'm tired of driving with a non-functioning hydraulic clutch) It'll also be the template for the trans mount crossbar going into the '83 J10. I found some parts I needed for my Ford scrap hauling truck (beginning to wish I'd just put the 304 from my J4000 into it but figured the 400M would be faster!) but ran out of time to get them off. (plan to go back tomorrow) I also checked over the Jeeps and AMCs in the yard (quite a few Concords and similar square headlight 2wds) I was hoping to find a Model 20 in one of the Comanches or AMCs or even a D44 in one of the XJs (someone beat me to them) but no luck. I want an M20 in my MJ and another for my '82 Spirit (the whine of the axle nearly drove me nuts going to my cabin and back last night. Especially with only an AM radio in the mountains) Maybe I just have too many irons in the fire? _________________________________________________________________ Booking a flight? Know when to buy with airfare predictions on MSN Travel. http://travel.msn.com/Articles/aboutfarecast.aspx&ocid=T001MSN25A07001 ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #2908 **************************