From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sat Feb 20 22:20:34 2010 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Sunday, February 21 2010 Volume 01 : Number 3535 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter fsj: spring time... RE: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter fsj: Diesel options Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter fsj: Starter turning slow? FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 20:44:13 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter why would anyone replace a fuel injection system with a carb???? maybe I don't want to know... I suppose they replaced the electronic igniton with points and took out the automatic to put in a T-90, removed the a/c, headliner, door handles, and cut the fenders off... ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: # Hi, # any experience with this carb on a 4.0 head? # # http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1607088822.html # # I did not find the adapter on the clifford site.... # # - Landon # # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 22:52:56 -0600 From: Kim Tesar Subject: Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter maybe they're using a special degreed cam in a stroker and don't want to reprogram chips all day. - - L ///// On Feb 18, 2010, at 10:44 PM, john wrote: > why would anyone replace a fuel injection system with a carb???? > > maybe I don't want to know... I suppose they replaced the > electronic igniton with points and took out the automatic > to put in a T-90, removed the a/c, headliner, door handles, > and cut the fenders off... > > ----- > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > -- > > > On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: > > # Hi, > # any experience with this carb on a 4.0 head? > # > # http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1607088822.html > # > # I did not find the adapter on the clifford site.... > # > # - Landon > # > # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 21:30:33 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter if you're gonna go through all that trouble why not install a Diesel? :) john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: # maybe they're using a special degreed cam in a stroker and don't want to # reprogram chips all day. # # - L # ///// # On Feb 18, 2010, at 10:44 PM, john wrote: # # >why would anyone replace a fuel injection system with a carb???? # > # >maybe I don't want to know... I suppose they replaced the # >electronic igniton with points and took out the automatic # >to put in a T-90, removed the a/c, headliner, door handles, # >and cut the fenders off... # > # > ----- # >------------------------------------------------------------------------ # > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # >http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum # > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us # >------------------------------------------------------------------------ # > # > # >On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: # > # > # Hi, # > # any experience with this carb on a 4.0 head? # > # # > # http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1607088822.html # > # # > # I did not find the adapter on the clifford site.... # > # # > # - Landon # > # # > # # ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 21:44:09 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: fsj: spring time... wife mowed the lawn this afternoon... really... planning on cleaning up my office tomorrow, so I pulled the WJ out so I have some room, and also can dry out the inside of the VW... mark has been drying out his '85 GW with a fan... the benz looks a bit fogged up as well... we're facing a few clear days, will give us a chance to dry everything out. :) will go out tomorrow and open things up... have a master carpenter friend coming over to look at putting a window on the east side of the upstairs bedroom... going to move my office out of the garage and upstairs... stand by for better mtn fotos. ;) still getting nibbles on the 2000 WJ... also heard from curtis, the chassis is back at his shop and he's started to assemble the drivetrain... he's getting better, but still moving kind of slow... http://fotomeister.us/2010/02-Feb-18-spring-has-sprung-in-snohomish/ALL.html john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ ------------------------------ Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 23:11:33 -0800 From: Jim Blair Subject: RE: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter Is BMax down there? Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10 - ---------------------------------------- > Date: Thu, 18 Feb 2010 20:44:13 -0800 > From: john-at-wagoneers.com > To: ltesar3421-at-sbcglobal.net > CC: fsj-at-digest.net > Subject: Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter > > why would anyone replace a fuel injection system with a carb???? > > maybe I don't want to know... I suppose they replaced the > electronic igniton with points and took out the automatic > to put in a T-90, removed the a/c, headliner, door handles, > and cut the fenders off... > > ----- > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: > > # Hi, > # any experience with this carb on a 4.0 head? > # > # http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1607088822.html > # > # I did not find the adapter on the clifford site.... > # > # - Landon > # > # _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft^Rs powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/ ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 09:45:21 -0800 (PST) From: john Subject: fsj: Diesel options all of the 5 cylinder Mercedes are fine. it's the 6 cylinder ones you have to be careful of. it's not heavier, just has issues with heads and such... the '82-'85 3.0L Turbo Diesels are solid, timing chain, WVO compatible engines that will give very long life and about 26 mpg in town in a 3,500lb vehicle, 0 to 60 in the 14-16 second range... faster than an AMC 360 in an '81 Wagoneer. the 2.5L TD I have in my '91 300D puts out more power, gets better economy... the 3.0L I-6 used in the early 124 series is also good, if never overheated. Overall I would say that a Mercedes Diesel would be best installed in an XJ or WJ. That's why I went with the SD33T for SuperDawg... less power, but industrial strength. Would I consider putting a I-5 Mercedes Diesel into an FSJ, if it was the Turbo version and I could figure out the transmission/xfr case setup, YES. The Nissan SD33T out of the Scout, using an RV version of the TF727 mated to a Jeep NP208 was a lot easier... I dislike the TF727 used in Jeeps, but the one used behind the Scouts and in the CJ-10A was NOT the same, it's industrial strength, different case even... it is a real transmission... the 727's used in Jeeps are NOT as strong... A 6.2L Diesel with a built 700R4 in a FSJ is a good option, but get decent motor mounts... and get the adapater that changes the OUTPUT shaft of the transmission and NOT the input stuff on the XFR case... xfr cases are replaced more often than transmissions... novak did some bass-akward thinking... john ----- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us - ------------------------------------------------------------------------ On Fri, 19 Feb 2010, Tesar Landon-R16884 wrote: # Haven't we been through this, that the 4 cyl are epxensive and # underpowered for an FSJ and the 6 cyl are too heavy and long? I'm open # to suggestions that are cost effective... 5 cyl Mercedes? # # - Landon # # -----Original Message----- # From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of # john # Sent: Thursday, February 18, 2010 11:31 PM # To: Kim Tesar # Cc: fsj digest # Subject: Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter # # if you're gonna go through all that trouble why not install a Diesel? # :) # # john # # ----- # ------------------------------------------------------------------------ # Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold # http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum # http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us # ------------------------------------------------------------------------ # # # On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: # # # maybe they're using a special degreed cam in a stroker and don't want # to # reprogram chips all day. # # # # - L # # ///// # # On Feb 18, 2010, at 10:44 PM, john wrote: # # # # >why would anyone replace a fuel injection system with a carb???? # # > # # >maybe I don't want to know... I suppose they replaced the # # >electronic igniton with points and took out the automatic # >to put in # a T-90, removed the a/c, headliner, door handles, # >and cut the # fenders off... # # > # # > ----- # # # >----------------------------------------------------------------------- # - # # > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they # mold # # >http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para # bellum # # > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com # http://fotomeister.us # # >----------------------------------------------------------------------- # - # # > # # > # # >On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: # # > # # > # Hi, # # > # any experience with this carb on a 4.0 head? # # > # # # > # http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1607088822.html # # > # # # > # I did not find the adapter on the clifford site.... # # > # # # > # - Landon # # > # # # > # # # # # ------------------------------ Date: Fri, 19 Feb 2010 10:49:50 -0800 From: Kevin Subject: Re: fsj: weber 40 IDF carb and adapter Simpler than that, the 4.0 head swap is a known swap onto 258s that never got fuel injection. Out of the box, the 4.0 head flows considerably better than the 232/258 head. Some people with the older iron don't want to go through the hassle of wiring up the jeep MPFI, so you use a carb intake with either a carb or TBI. As far as the weber, I played with two - a 32-36 and a 38-38. The 32-36 was a long time ago, the 38-38 was more recent, and on the 258 in my 74 cherokee. I never could get it to run right, and the jeep was off the road for years, until I bought a parts 258 from a javelin that happened to have the same 1bbl carb my jeep came with, but rebuilt. Threw the carb on the jeep and it started and ran almost perfect. All of its running issues, poor idle, tip-in problems, poor mileage, and problems starting when cold were the carb, since it was the ONLY thing I changed before I put the jeep back on the road. It is in a box now, and I'm really not interested in combining webers and jeeps anymore. On Thu, Feb 18, 2010 at 10:52:56PM -0600, Kim Tesar wrote: > maybe they're using a special degreed cam in a stroker and don't want > to reprogram chips all day. > > - L > ///// > On Feb 18, 2010, at 10:44 PM, john wrote: > > >why would anyone replace a fuel injection system with a carb???? > > > >maybe I don't want to know... I suppose they replaced the > >electronic igniton with points and took out the automatic > >to put in a T-90, removed the a/c, headliner, door handles, > >and cut the fenders off... > > > > ----- > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >-- > > Snohomish, Washington -o|||||o- where Jeeps don't rust, they mold > >http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 si vis pacem, para bellum > > http://johnmeister.com http://wagoneers.com http://fotomeister.us > >---------------------------------------------------------------------- > >-- > > > > > >On Thu, 18 Feb 2010, Kim Tesar wrote: > > > > # Hi, > > # any experience with this carb on a 4.0 head? > > # > > # http://austin.craigslist.org/pts/1607088822.html > > # > > # I did not find the adapter on the clifford site.... > > # > > # - Landon > > # > > # ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2010 22:19:10 -0800 From: Jim Blair Subject: fsj: Starter turning slow? Subject on another list was starter turning slow sometimes. Here's my answer: So many possibilities! Timing could be too far ahead, bad ground cable (or battery connections) or worn starter nose bushing (if it's the older Ford type used up to '86) When the bushing is worn, the armature will move off center and in extreme cases, it will make contact with the outer winding and short, causing an extreme draw. That major draw can NOT be bench tested! It has to be done in a vehicle! You need either a clamp on ammeter that goes over the cable (last one I bought was about $30 and in the esoteric tool section for shop mechanics) or use a voltmeter on the battery while someone cranks it. Heavy draw will cause the battery to drop below 10 volts, which means either the battery is bad, or if it tests good independently, the starter nose bushing is causing a short. If there is no drop below 10 volts, and the starter still turns slow, it's probably a connection problem. If that's the case, check the area between the battery post and the clamp for corrosion (in an ideal world, there would be NONE!) This includes wiping the post with your finger. If there is grey pasty looking stuff on your finger, that is lead oxide. It looks like lead (Pb) but is really "invisible" corrosion and you need to make the clamps and the posts shine where they make contact. (wire brush post cleaners are okay, but they make many little spots for corrosion to re-start from, so they are not ideal, but they work at least for testing purposes) Next, check where the cable connects to the clamps for tell tale signs of green or powder on the wires inside. They can actually heat up and suddenly disconnect your vehicle electrical system from the battery, which can cause all sorts of problems from the minor flickering lights, to the annoying stall or to the expen$ive alternator or computer burnout. Check the motor end of the ground cable to ensure it is tight and clean (4.0L have a major problem with them coming loose because the lock washer loses it's strength and cracks, falls out and causes an open circuit) Make sure you have ground wires from the motor to the body (and the frame on some models which are isolated by rubber mounts) Next, check the solenoid end of the positive cable for corrosion/tightness (make sure it's not just finger tight. I don't know how many "rescues" were caused by the same lock washer issue as the ground) One older models with the solenoid on the fender, check the cable going from there to the starter for looseness, corrosion and wear through against the frame (I have seen LOTS of them melted onto exhaust manifolds on V8s!) If it's still acting up, then do a visual check. Watch the battery cables to see if they jump when the starter is engaged *(make sure the starter isn't jumping too!) After cranking a bit, gingerly touch test (or put your hand close to the cables/posts to see) for high heat. That would mean corrosion, which makes resistance, which makes the heat when electricity is applied, especially in high draw situations. After these tests, THEN I replace the starter. It doesn't take that long to do these things, and can save you $$$ in the long run as they are general maintenance that is just so common sense. It's too bad that it's just not so common anymore! _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsoft^Rs powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/ ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #3535 **************************