From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Sat May 20 23:24:44 2000 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Sunday, May 21 2000 Volume 01 : Number 864 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: Re: fsj: RE: RJ's continuing life with an FSJ... fsj: Re: digital cameras fsj: CRASH PAD REMOVAL ON PRE-AMC FSJs - A QUESTION fsj: RE: CRASH PAD REMOVAL ON PRE-AMC FSJs - A QUESTION fsj: I ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION - WAS CRASH PAD REMOVAL Re: fsj: RE: Third week into FSJ ownership (long). fsj: stroker math Re: fsj: Adjusting Choke? Re: fsj: Digital Cameras... Re: fsj: Adjusting Choke? fsj: Saturday Snohomish Special... FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 12:36:29 -0500 From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: Re: fsj: RE: RJ's continuing life with an FSJ... Sorry.. been really busy! Well any way, I still got to get some lift time, today is the Open House at NASA Space center, here in Huntsville. I am taking the day off , and checking that out for the first time. It's raining today, which is good because it has not in the last 5 weeks, they are calling for another drought season again this year, but it is really humid! I have not been in this kind of weather before, ( in over ten years) I thought Delaware was bad... yuck! 6 mpg? Wow! Well ,you do have quite the beast,... if I remember right.. On the Choke.. I went out this morning to adjust it,( and since Jack re positioned it, from 12:00 position to the 7:30 position, when it was hot, yesterday..) It was already set just perfect, started right up and stayed! Thanks ! I ''ll get to it! R.J. JC Jones wrote: > RJ, > I am 99% sure that if you replace the front spring bushings your clunk > will go away, especially with what you have said about the problem and the > results of the "turn while in park" test (which by the way you never got > back to me on the results of that test). As for the mileage, be glad, I > only get 6mpg. > > JC Jones :) > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of > john > Sent: Saturday, May 20, 2000 12:38 AM > To: fsj-at-digest.net > Subject: fsj: RJ's continuing life with an FSJ... > > On the choke, in the old days I was taught to use a drill bit, > 1/16th inch if I remember correctly. So you'd go in and adjust > it cold with a drill bit in place... That was 30 years ago though... > man... wow... it doesn't SEEM like that long ago... oh well... > > >Also that clunking, is not the U -joint, because it clunks, ( not as loud) > when you > >are turning the wheels back and forth in park. We took it for a test > drive, going down > >the road, about 25 mph.. > > never could figure out what that was either, neither could the previous > owner... > > >swerving back and forth, making it clunk more, you could feel the > vibrations through > >the floor, like a large rock, hitting the bottom of the truck. > > The best we could figure is it was the right spring rear shackle or spring > shifting a bit... > > >He said it is nothing really bad or at least life threatening, and to get > back with > > kind of what everyone else figured too... might be related to the dent in > the > fender in thinking about it... I bet it has to do with the spring pack. > > >him, when he has a lift open, He did not charge me anything for his time > or showing > >me about the choke. really pretty simple.. > > > >And He noticed it was running hot, ( or at least warmer then it should be) > I think > >,...John put a 190 degree in it? > > I left the package... could have sworn I did a 180... I know the > "fail-safe" > piece of work I had put in there failed and it was running cool... pretty > sure > I reinstalled a 180, could be wrong though. > > >Anyway.. He said it would be better to be fitted with > >a electric fan, and take some drag off the engine, and boost the MPG as > well. > > captial B... I TOOK an electric fan off after it failed by Mt. Shasta! I > boiled over during a traffic jam driving home... pulled off and managed to > keep it from popping anything, whew... When I got to Medford I ripped the > mickey mouse electric fan out and put the stock fan back in. It made NO > difference in the mileage... I had two full days before and after, NO > change. > > The drag on a clutch type fan like that is very, very minimal. Don't > believe > it'll help you at all, because it'll fail on you when you really need it. > > I believe Wes's cats are enjoying that electric fan now... ;) > > >What do you guys think? > > what, you weren't listening? ;) > > >I am only getting 9 mpg. > > I was getting 8mpg, what you'd do to improve it? :) > > john > ------------------------------------------------------------- > http://www.WAGONEERS.com/johnsjeeps.jpg > SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and the J3000 > ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! > Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... > ------- > ...be thou neither a sender nor a receiver of attachments... > ...if thou usest a microsoft operating system or email program... > ------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 12:48:37 -0500 From: Greg Boswell Subject: fsj: Re: digital cameras If you are in the market for a digital camera check out www.dpreview.com. The best place on the net to find reviews and a forum for almost every digital camera made so you can see what the users have to say and the problems they report. And a great links section for any kind of support you may want. I have had a Nikon 950 for the last year. When it first came out it had the most user defined settings of any sub $1000.00 camera on the market. In almost every camera comparison review it was rated far and away the best. I love this camera! I've taken sooooooo many "professional quality" pictures and I don't even know how to get the most out of it. I've bought 4 extra lens for it (2 telescopes, a wide angle and a fisheye which come in handy for my business.) There is an underwater box available w/ another cheaper one to hit the market this summer.( Can't wait!! Carib, here I come!) One of the really neat features of this camera is it's swivel lens. you can set the thing on a semi flat spot and tilt the lens up or down as needed: it's own tripod! Great for taking pics under your Jeep! Couple this camera with an FSJ, family or a friend, and the back country and you can't have a better time. Greg 87 GW "Big Grin" ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 15:10:45 EDT From: RMSquaredJeeps-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: CRASH PAD REMOVAL ON PRE-AMC FSJs - A QUESTION Now that the exterior is done, I'm working on sprucing up the interior of my Super Wagoneer, specifically the headliner and dash crash pad which on my truck is curled up at the ends. Has anyone here removed, repaired and replaced theirs? So far I've got the rearmost portion unclipped, secured at the trailing edge by a variation of door trim clips but what I'm trying to figure out if the front edge is secured under the lower window interior rubber gasket/sealer. In pealing up the rubber I see some bolts but before I go to remove them, I'd like to confirm if that's what's actually holding the front edge of the dash crash pad in place. Is there any mention of crash pad removal in any of the Kaiser-era TSMs? I believe that once I get the crash pad out, with the judicious use of a heat gun and reinforcing the bottom of the padding, I may be able to effect a suitable repair. If so, I'll probably use some less permanent way to secure the leading edge of the pad (double sided tape, Velcro perhaps) to facilitate repairs or NOS replacement down the road. As always, any help will be appreciated. On another front, does anyone here have a factory air-equipped Buick 350 FSJ? I've been told that there is no mention in the TSM on the belt and pulley arrangement so I suspect that the easiest way to find out what it was (mine does not have the correct setup) is to get a photograph and/or description of the proper setup. I did see such a vehicle last year in AZ but the dummy that I am I forgot to photograph it and I've lost that person's name and E-mail. (Len Sullivan, if you see this note, can you help? You know the guy with the '69 green Wagoneer Custom.) This is the weekend that I try to address all the little things that I can on my FSJ. Next week it finally goes in to get a new main rear seal so my driveway wuill no longer resemble Valdez, Alaska. Have a great weekend, Richard Truesdell Contributing editor, JP Magazine 1964 Kaiser Jeep Wagoneer 1969 Kaiser Jeep Super Wagoneer 1980 AMC Jeep Wagoneer ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 14:02:22 -0600 From: "Gaylon Holmes" Subject: fsj: RE: CRASH PAD REMOVAL ON PRE-AMC FSJs - A QUESTION I have an early 1971 Wagoneer with the Buick 350 and factory air. I'll try to get a friend over in the next few days to digitally photograph the layout for you. Additionally, my dashpad is curled at the ends also. Hard to believe, eh?! I would be interested in hearing your experiences as you address this problem. - -Holmes > From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net]On Behalf Of > RMSquaredJeeps-at-aol.com > Subject: fsj: CRASH PAD REMOVAL ON PRE-AMC FSJs - A QUESTION > > Now that the exterior is done, I'm working on sprucing up the > interior of my > Super Wagoneer, specifically the headliner and dash crash pad which on my > truck is curled up at the ends. > > Has anyone here removed, repaired and replaced theirs? So far > I've got the > rearmost portion unclipped, secured at the trailing edge by a > variation of > door trim clips but what I'm trying to figure out if the front edge is > secured under the lower window interior rubber gasket/sealer. In > pealing up > the rubber I see some bolts but before I go to remove them, I'd like to > confirm if that's what's actually holding the front edge of the > dash crash > pad in place. Is there any mention of crash pad removal in any of the > Kaiser-era TSMs? I believe that once I get the crash pad out, with the > judicious use of a heat gun and reinforcing the bottom of the > padding, I may > be able to effect a suitable repair. If so, I'll probably use some less > permanent way to secure the leading edge of the pad (double sided tape, > Velcro perhaps) to facilitate repairs or NOS replacement down the road. > On another front, does anyone here have a factory air-equipped > Buick 350 FSJ? > I've been told that there is no mention in the TSM on the belt and pulley > arrangement so I suspect that the easiest way to find out what it > was (mine > does not have the correct setup) is to get a photograph and/or > description of > the proper setup. I did see such a vehicle last year in AZ but > the dummy that > I am I forgot to photograph it and I've lost that person's name > and E-mail. > Richard Truesdell > Contributing editor, JP Magazine > 1964 Kaiser Jeep Wagoneer > 1969 Kaiser Jeep Super Wagoneer > 1980 AMC Jeep Wagoneer ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 16:12:16 EDT From: RMSquaredJeeps-at-aol.com Subject: fsj: I ANSWERED MY OWN QUESTION - WAS CRASH PAD REMOVAL I bet many of you are like me, once you get started on a project, you hate to stop. With regard to the crash pad removal on pre-AMC dash (1972?) FSJs, the leasing edge of the dash crash pad, is secured under the rubber windshield molding gasket by 5 clips held in place by 5 11-mm bolts. I suspect that this chore would be made much simpler by the removal of the windshield and I suspect it is virtually impossible to reinstall the dash crash pad without removing the windshield. Since I have a small crack, repaired by an instant windshield repair service, if the windshield has to be removed, I'll probably do it when the crash pad is reinstalled. What I'm thinking is to coordinate the replacement of the headliner at the same time although with a wagon, it would be easy to drop the headliner and remove it for recovering out the back with the tailgate dropped. The crash pad, in spite of being 31 years old, is in remarkably good shape, just upturned at the edges. It is intact. I suspect that someone like Just Dashes (www.justdashes.com) can make it look like new. I suspect I'll give them a call on Monday. It looks like they charge between $300 to $400 to restore a core to original condition. Just figured that someone out there may want to know this information. Have a great weekend, Richard Truesdell Contributing editor, JP Magazine 1964 Kaiser Jeep Wagoneer 1969 Kaiser Jeep Super Wagoneer 1980 AMC Jeep Wagoneer ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 18:40:31 EDT From: DSandelands-at-aol.com Subject: Re: fsj: RE: Third week into FSJ ownership (long). In a message dated 5/20/00 8:49:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time, jcjones-at-goldencomputerservice.com writes: << IMHO, if you stay with an automatic transmission, you can't get a better one then the TH400. It is very hard to break a TH400 (commonly used in 1 Ton 4x4 Chevy trucks). >> >From years of reading various car mags (not first hand experience), it is my understanding that you are correct, the TH400 is one of the strongest transmissions available whether automatic or manual. However, these same sources indicate that the TH400 is probably the least efficient automatic around. I remember an old Hot Rod test where they stated that the TH400 drained 40 HP from an engine through frictional losses whereas a TH350 used only 25 HP. I can't supply a cite for this, but I think these numbers are generally accepted as correct. Presumably modern automatics and manuals are significantly more efficient. Since CA emissions laws prevent me from doing much to increase engine output, at some point I would like to install a more efficient transmission and get some of that lost HP back. As a bonus a few more mpg would be great too. ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 18:30:59 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: stroker math jim blair is over helping me with a carb, and we got to talking about some auto math... here's the notes. Cylinder volume = pi/4 x bore2 x stroke (note: bore2 = bore squared) 4.0L bore = 3.88 (stroke for 4.0l 1988 = 3.14) 4.2L Stroke = 3.90 (bore for 4.2 = 3.75 1983) 4.0L, 1988 bxs = 3.88 x 3.14 9.2:1 compr 177hp -at- 4500 tq 224/2500 241.6 cu in - (3.96L) 4.2L, 1983 bxs = 3.75 x 3.90 9.2:1 compr 115hp -at- 3200 tq 210/1800 258 cu in - (4.22L) 5.9L, 1983 bxs = 4.08 x 3.44 8.25:1 compr 129hp -at- 3700 tq 245/1600 360 cu in - (5.89L) john - ------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/johnsjeeps.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and the J3000 ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... ------- ...be thou neither a sender nor a receiver of attachments... ...if thou usest a microsoft operating system or email program... ------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 21 May 2000 02:04:45 GMT From: Robert Barry Subject: Re: fsj: Adjusting Choke? >He showed me how the Choke works and can be adjusted.. ( Electronic) >So.. in the morning, i 'll go out and adjust it to where's it is supposed to be. >Anybody know what the correct way or what the measure the butterfly gap? Usually the specs are given in thousandths of an inch. There is supposedly a set of gauges, which are straight rods of particular diameters you use to set the gap by holding it vertically between the air-horn and the choke-plate. A drill bit that is close to that decimal size is usually good enough (i.e. if it calls for a gap of 0.275", use a 1/4" drill bit and adjust it so that the choke plate is almost touching the bit). Most choke settings are actually +/- a few thousandths, so you can often find a bit that falls within the range of the setting you're trying to adjust to. >And He noticed it was running hot, ( or at least warmer then it should be) I think >,...John put a 190 degree in it? Anyway.. He said it would be better to be fitted with >a electric fan, and take some drag off the engine, and boost the MPG as well. >What do you guys think? HD all-aluminum clutch fan, the biggest fan with the most blades you can fit in your shroud, blowing all the gunk out the front of the radiator fins by blasting it from behind with water (soap it up before hand to get as much grime as possible out of there), making sure you have no vacuum leaks, making sure there are no exhaust restrictions, timing is set where it should be, etc... >I am only getting 9 mpg. What's your secret? Around town, we usually get 5mpg because all our trips are a mile or less, and the truck is either warming up in the driveway or my wife is driving it on the choke. On the open road, we can get up to 12mpg. In what kind of driving are you getting 9mpg? ________________________________________________ Bob Barry MailTo:RBarry-at-Providence.Edu http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 19:23:24 -0700 From: john Subject: Re: fsj: Digital Cameras... that is good resolution... but at the 1290x1024, or whatever it was, I get 36 on an 8m... heading back out, jim blair and I are swapping carbs on Superdawg. :) I just came in to dump the pictures to my laptop... filled it up. :) john At 06:14 PM 5/20/00 -0700, Jerome Kaidor wrote: >> >> I looked at some of these, also very good. Do you know >> what the resolution is off-hand? > >*** 1536 by 1024. That's in the max-resolution, max-quality mode, which >is the only mode I ever use. I bought this particular camera because I >had gotten a Pretec DC300 to take pictures of stuff for Ebay, and got >tired of seeing individual pixels in my pictures. So I went for the camera >with the most pixels, and at that time, the Kodak was it. > > The camera uses Compact Flash, and I have the 8-meg one that came with >it, which holds 12 shots. That seemed inadequate, so I bought a 32-meg >CF chip, that holds 64 max-res, max-quality shots. So I can snap 76 >pictures before I have to come home to the computer. > > Unfortunately, AFAIK, there is no Linux DC260 driver. On the other hand, >I just plug the CF card into a PCMCIA adaptor on my Windows desktop - it >just looks like a hard drive to Windows - might work for Linux, too. Those >pictures, BTW are residing on my Linux router/firewall/server machine. > > - Jerry Kaidor ( jerry-at-tr2.com ) > - ------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/johnsjeeps.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and the J3000 ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... ------- ...be thou neither a sender nor a receiver of attachments... ...if thou usest a microsoft operating system or email program... ------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 23:06:18 -0500 From: "R.J. Baynum" Subject: Re: fsj: Adjusting Choke? In town, I get 9 mpg.. short drives too, like under 10 miles or so round trip. stop and go traffic.. R.J. Robert Barry wrote: > >He showed me how the Choke works and can be adjusted.. ( Electronic) > >So.. in the morning, i 'll go out and adjust it to where's it is supposed > to be. > >Anybody know what the correct way or what the measure the butterfly gap? > > Usually the specs are given in thousandths of an inch. There is supposedly a > set of gauges, which are straight rods of particular diameters you use to > set the gap by holding it vertically between the air-horn and the > choke-plate. A drill bit that is close to that decimal size is usually good > enough (i.e. if it calls for a gap of 0.275", use a 1/4" drill bit and > adjust it so that the choke plate is almost touching the bit). Most choke > settings are actually +/- a few thousandths, so you can often find a bit > that falls within the range of the setting you're trying to adjust to. > > >And He noticed it was running hot, ( or at least warmer then it should be) > I think > >,...John put a 190 degree in it? Anyway.. He said it would be better to be > fitted with > >a electric fan, and take some drag off the engine, and boost the MPG as well. > >What do you guys think? > > HD all-aluminum clutch fan, the biggest fan with the most blades you can fit > in your shroud, blowing all the gunk out the front of the radiator fins by > blasting it from behind with water (soap it up before hand to get as much > grime as possible out of there), making sure you have no vacuum leaks, > making sure there are no exhaust restrictions, timing is set where it should > be, etc... > > >I am only getting 9 mpg. > > What's your secret? Around town, we usually get 5mpg because all our trips > are a mile or less, and the truck is either warming up in the driveway or my > wife is driving it on the choke. > > On the open road, we can get up to 12mpg. In what kind of driving are you > getting 9mpg? > ________________________________________________ > Bob Barry MailTo:RBarry-at-Providence.Edu > http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/ ------------------------------ Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 23:30:52 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: Saturday Snohomish Special... Long day in Snohomish... my FSJ buddies, Ben, Allan and Jim got me up early for the Monroe swap meet. Showed 'em the Camp Jeep Dealer Business Meeting 1998 / 99 WJ Launch video first. Once at the swap meet we kind of scattered. Ben and I wandered systematically through and hit everything. Not much for either of our Jeeps. Knowing that Superdawg's mileage has been steadily decreasing, I started looking for carbs. When I found some Motorcrafts I managed to find Jim Blair and then had him help me pick out some used Motorcraft carbs... I found one fair one for $7. Then we looked at it and figured out some parts were missing. Went back and bought another one for $2 that had some of the parts. Meanwhile Jim found a welder and was hauling it out to his truck and I went back looking for another carb. Found one for $6. So, back to Snohomish, stopped at Olympic with Jim. Jim was looking for XJ stuff and I was trying to find the elusive throttle bracket for my 258. We both struck out. Got back home and Jim and I started working on the carbs. Jim built one good one out of 4 of mixed condition. We got it on the manifold, fired right up and shrieked like a whistle... major vacuum leak. We didn't have the right gaskets for the base... argh. So, next thing I know Jim is pulling the manifold... Guess he figured we'd be able to jury rig a throttle setup with the stock manifold and BBD carb I had bought off of eaby... So, off goes the Clifford, and looky there... there's a chunk missing from one of the flanges... :) major leak. That and the bad power valve on the Holley resulted in my 11 to 13 mpg on an engine that should get over 20. Hmmm... there is hope yet for Superdawg. So, it's around 5 or 6pm when we started... ;) It's now 11pm and Jim just left. I hope I didn't get him in too much trouble... :} Did the test drive and Superdawg went up the hill, and without an EGR valve in place, a long story... he pinged if I mashed it to the floor, but not at 3/4 throttle... (I need the stock 258 throttle bracket, a new throttle cable and the EGR pipe so I can get this setup properly. Working though, thankfully!) So, tomorrow, I'll top of the tank and pray for at least the EPA ratings... ;) It runs smooth and quiet. Now I need to get an Amsoil Air filter for the stock setup. MANY THANKS to Jim Blair!!! This guy is a carb wizard. I'm not easily amazed, but this guy is amazing with carbs. He's the best I've ever seen. I've known lots of mechanics, good ones, but none that I've seen take junk and make a working carb like Jim can. Not to mention the wide range of carbs he is familiar with. I know a few good mechanics that are good on one or two types of carbs, but get 'em off those brands and they're just ok. I now have a box of Motorcraft 2100's for sale, 1 that works, and three parts units. I have a clifford manifold that needs to have a piece JB welded back in place, or TIG welded. I have a pair of 360 valve covers, a Holley 2v with a bad power valve and a cast iron 258 Manifold... all going away, cheap... If I don't hear from friends on the list, I'll put the stuff on ebay starting out at $5 or something like that. :) john - ------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/johnsjeeps.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and the J3000 ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... ------- ...be thou neither a sender nor a receiver of attachments... ...if thou usest a microsoft operating system or email program... ------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #864 *************************