From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Tue May 23 09:17:52 2000 From: fsj-digest fsj-digest Tuesday, May 23 2000 Volume 01 : Number 868 Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps Brian Colucci Digest Coordinator Contents: fsj: bingo! fsj: list mom and spam Re: fsj: Re: xj: Why is it so hard to get what you want (long U-joint fsj: Re: goodies from the garage... :) Re: fsj: Re: xj: Why is it so hard to get what you want (long U-joint fsj: Re: Diesel power again fsj: Re: [1FSJ] I found a 401! fsj: Here's the goodies I found.... fsj: Re: Jeep Will Start If U Do THis fsj: Re: Here's the goodies I found.... fsj: garage update... reporting from Snohomis fsj: Tim's questions on axles... fsj: The ultimate in AMC V-8 water pumps? fsj: Picky Picky fsj: '77 F250 FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/ Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo commands. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 13:25:50 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: bingo! >Ya, you want the garage, she wants the garden. So you compromise, She gets >the garden. LOL! > >Paul you're a married man too!? :) funny how these things work. john - ------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/johnsjeeps.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and the J3000 ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... ------- ...be thou neither a sender nor a receiver of attachments... ...if thou usest a microsoft operating system or email program... ------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 13:24:18 -0700 From: john Subject: fsj: list mom and spam >whoever is the list mom. Please change list so that you can only >send mail if you're subscribed to the list. that should eliminate >the spam from making it to the list. > the list IS setup so non-subscribers can't submit to it. not exactly sure how the spammers get through... maybe they dummy up a return address based on a valid list member.... hmmm... Anyway, I get bounced email all day long from the lists, very few get through. When you get spam, search the header for ALL the addresses (except of course your isp and digest.net related) and forward the entire message and header to abuse-at-, and postmater-at- those addresses, even the ip addresses. Supposedly these isp's shut down these accounts, and a few domains have replied saying they've fixed their security. (It's a sendmail thing... any UNIX admin could send email to you from anyone they want... if they can find a system that isn't secured properly. :) In fact, they taught us how to do it in a recent class. The point was to make sure your server was setup to prevent it. john - ------------------------------------------------------------- http://www.WAGONEERS.com/johnsjeeps.jpg SuperDawg, SuperPup (the little wagoneer), and the J3000 ...don't leave life without Jesus, please! Snohomish, WA - where Jeeps don't rust, they mold... ------- ...be thou neither a sender nor a receiver of attachments... ...if thou usest a microsoft operating system or email program... ------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 100 13:41:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Brad Seevers Subject: Re: fsj: Re: xj: Why is it so hard to get what you want (long U-joint All the u-joints I have ever bought (even the sealed units) were cross drilled through the axis so if you had a greasable cap you could grease the whole u-joint. I'm sure lots of them aren't drilled, but are you sure the sealed units aren't cross drilled? I recently was looking for a u-joint for a front axle shaft and was unable to find any that were OEM style, but found several that were cross-drilled and had a single greasable cap that allowed greasing the whole thing. - -brad > A: I prefer the sealed units, and hand grease them during install. The > solid cross is stronger than a drilled through one (I've snapped most of > the ones I've had in the center, but that was with more than stock > power! ) > > Bill wrote: > I didn't think it was too much to ask - all i wanted was 2 greasable > U-joints for the front axle. I had tried the "sealed: kind - ha ha ha. I > had to cut them out they were so dry and siezed. > I looked for the spicer units - nobody has them - "just use the OEM > selaed style" thay all say !! > Finally found a place (Car Quest - a big nasty chain) that sells > greasable units - supposedly re-packaged Spicer units - an hour from > home. I get 2, and for some lucky reason open the boxes in the store - > good thing too - one is the dreaded "sealed" kind. > I keep the good one, it has a drilled cross, a small plug where the > nipple would go in the cross, and one cap has a grease port. Ok I think. > So all over town looking for one more - it's friday and I've got wheelin > to do this weekend. Best I can find is another Car quest one - this > crazy thing with a solid cross, and 3 caps woth grease ports and one > wothout - guess it just dries up, wears out, and ch-ching - that'll be > another $30 thank you. > Now - if I could find 'em with a solid cross and 4 greasable caps - that > would really be something !!! > I know I should have waited but you know how it is when the rig isn't > driveable - so in they went - guess time will tell - my moey's on the > drilled cross. > Thanks for listening. What's everyone else use? > Bill ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 100 14:24:04 -0700 From: "Tom Anhalt" Subject: fsj: Re: goodies from the garage... :) - ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: john > >Hey, if you're cleaning out the garage... ;) I'm >ok on ignition parts and such... oh, wait, I do need the >charcoal cannister. I'm sure you're still using yours though. > Nope....the MPI kit came with it's own.....I'll send it along. >I have NO emissions parts for this engine. The DsPPo ditched >everything. :) > I'll round up whatever I have left....I remember gleefully throwing a bunch of the vacuum operated stuff into the trash, however. >main thing is the linkage/throttle cable/egr pipe setup. Driving >at low speeds right now is a comical sight. :) > No problem. >I know what you mean about wanting to change Superdawg over to >the 4.0L. :) You're actually second in line for the T-5, Ray >in MI was asking for it soon as I got the stepside. :) Of course >if you were to come up and get it, you'd have first dibs since I >really don't want to hassle around with trucking something like that. :) > >Not sure if I will get rid of it right away though... It is a nice >tranny... on the other hand, you can only store so much stuff. :) > >Congrats on the baby! Wow, that's great, hope all goes well >for momma and babies. > Thanks! So far, so good. >Go ahead and send that stuff priority mail, I'll cover the costs >and it shouldn't be too much. I shipped an HP workstation to Dallas >for around $35 or so! shipped it saturday, it showed up on Monday! > Sounds like a plan....I'll let you know. Later, Tom ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 14:21:27 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: Re: fsj: Re: xj: Why is it so hard to get what you want (long U-joint A: I used to drill the caps and carefully wash all the grit out, reassemble and put fresh grease in. They still didn't last as long as a solid one hand greased during install. I got mine from United Automotive (They are a GM factory parts warehouse) w/o cross holes. Brad=A0Seevers wrote: All the u-joints I have ever bought (even the sealed units) were cross drilled through the axis so if you had a greasable cap you could grease the whole u-joint. I'm sure lots of them aren't drilled, but are you sure the sealed units aren't cross drilled? I recently was looking for a u-joint for a front axle shaft and was unable to find any that were OEM style, but found several that were cross-drilled and had a single greasable cap that allowed greasing the whole thing. - -brad I wrote: I prefer the sealed units, and hand grease them during install. The solid cross is stronger than a drilled through one (I've snapped most of the ones I've had in the center, but that was with more than stock power! ) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ JimBlair, Seattle,WA 1983 4.2L Chero 4dr http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html Now appearing on allexperts.com Pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=3D13998&Auth=3Dfalse ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 15:10:40 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: fsj: Re: Diesel power again I made a little booboo! It's the Re-NOT! turbo diesel, not the Puke-it! The turbo may make a difference. John wrote: it's a Renault TD that was used in the 85 to 87 xjs. 85hp, 115ftlbs of torque.. I wrote: How big is the puke-it diesel in an XJ? How many HP & ft lbs of torque? Anyone know the same for an '81 Nissan diesel 6 cyl? I tripped over one for sale today, and may swap stuff for it. It has an AW4 auto trans already! That would allow me to pull the 4.0L from the '88 XJ I have for another stroker build up (PS: The overheat was due to no fan thermal control!) Andrew wrote: the nissan is 3.3L, right? this is definitely bigger than the stock xj diesel by a lot, so it's gotta be a good power jump too. At 12:40 AM 5/20/00 -0700, James Blair wrote: How big is the puke-it diesel in an XJ? How many HP & ft lbs of torque? Anyone know the same for an '81 Nissan diesel 6 cyl? I tripped over one for sale today, and may swap stuff for it. It has an AW4 auto trans already! That would allow me to pull the 4.0L from the '88 XJ I have for another stroker build up (PS: The overheat was due to no fan thermal control!) ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ JimBlair, Seattle,WA 1983 4.2L Chero 4dr http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html Now appearing on allexperts.com Pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998&Auth=false ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 20:42:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Carnuck-at-webtv.net (James Blair) Subject: fsj: Re: [1FSJ] I found a 401! I found one too! Someone robbed the carb, but it was a runner before the trans packed it in. Anyone interested for $500? ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ JimBlair, Seattle,WA 1983 4.2L Chero 4dr http://homepages.go.com/~carnuck/carnuck.html Now appearing on allexperts.com Pics: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=13998&Auth=false ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ------------------------------ Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 21:45:28 -0700 From: Thomas Anhalt Subject: fsj: Here's the goodies I found.... Hi John, Here's the result of my search through the jeep parts in the garage. I DO have the throttle linkage setup. This consists of the throttle cable, a bellcrank/bracket (that bolts to the intake manifold), and the solid rod that connects the bellcrank to the carb. Is this what you're looking for? I also dug up the charcoal cannister that comes along with a BRAND NEW mounting bracket that was included in the MPI kit. I didn't use the new bracket because the new cannister fit fine in the old bracket I already had. You'll get both. I also included another goodie that no respectable FSJ'er should leave out of his "getcha back"/spare parts box. Of course it's a part I don't need anymore.....you'll see what I mean ;-) If this sounds good, I'll take the box to the post office tomorrow and send it priority mail...it shouldn't be much, the box is small and not very heavy. ttyl, Tom P.S. I don't have the EGR tube. If I recall correctly, it was mangled up pretty well when I went to remove it from the exhaust manifold (I got to plug it up with the MPI install)....sorry. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 23:19:41 -0500 From: JeepNut Subject: fsj: Re: Jeep Will Start If U Do THis Well you tried to tell me that once before.... Admiral, you called it once, and I proved it today.... I put the ECM box on and it fired right up. I put a new coil on it too 'cause I'm anal. I replaced some wires; miles of vacumn lines... but.... Now it won't shut off! I kid you not, after I got it fired up, I tried to shut it down... and it wouldn't! I am burning one killer Karmic ribbon here.... So the FSM says for engines that won't die at key-off only 2 things. Starter Solenoid Shorted Diode in Alternator warning lamp circuit Replace Diode. Does this mean a diode in the alternator? or elsewhere?... To make a long story short, I had messed up the wires to the alternator. So I had 12V feed to the coil+ all the time. With all that fixed, it's running finally... and I'm ready to try on gasket #3 on that damned 727 pan.... it's still leaking a pint a day or better. I've got to get it fixed better than that.... I just wish I could save that fluid somehow... Anyway, great gobs of thanks to all who offered some ideas! I've still got a lot of details to followup to get the thing road-ready by Thursday! And about 4 acres of grass to cut, tiller to load, dogs to bathe, packing to do, etc, etc,... Tomorrow? A/C Recharge! It's supposed be 88 tomorrow!! Anybody wanna cut some of that grass? JeepNut "B. COLUCCI" wrote: > Greetings Jeepnut & the Rest Of The FSJ World! > > You did well by having that spare starter from the MJ. Been there and > done that; it's hard to believe but when these FSJ starters malfunction > they set up their own internal power field that acts like a generator to > keep them running even without voltage being supplied. Would not > believe it if I had not seen it on the USS GW only after replacing the > logical items like you have also done. > > Now I too have seen the problem with the key in the start position and > the engine will not fire. then when you release the key it acts like it > wants to fire. Simple fix; replace the Ford Durraspark Module. The > cranking circuit in yours has failed; yet the run circuit is fine. > > Until The Next Dimension, > Admiral "Coluch." > Starfleet Headquarters > Ohio Post > End Transmission........................................ - -- - ---------------------------------------------------------------- '87 Street Comanche #24/100 '88 Grand Wagoneer ...and they say there's only one... '92 Cherokee - ---------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 21:35:40 -0700 (PDT) From: john Subject: fsj: Re: Here's the goodies I found.... On Sun, 14 May 2000, Thomas Anhalt wrote: >-->Hi John, >-->Here's the result of my search through the jeep parts in the garage. I >-->DO have the throttle linkage setup. This consists of the throttle >-->cable, a bellcrank/bracket (that bolts to the intake manifold), and the >-->solid rod that connects the bellcrank to the carb. Is this what you're >-->looking for? YES! :) exactly. >--> >-->I also dug up the charcoal cannister that comes along with a BRAND NEW >-->mounting bracket that was included in the MPI kit. I didn't use the new >-->bracket because the new cannister fit fine in the old bracket I already >-->had. You'll get both. awesome, I'll quit smelling gas! The PPo was really against any kind of emission stuff... he ripped out everything... even the electronic ignition! I gave Jim the Mallory Dual point distributer that I yarded out. :) I'll gladly pay the priority mail rate, the USPS has really gotten competitive with other shippers. >-->I also included another goodie that no respectable FSJ'er should leave >-->out of his "getcha back"/spare parts box. Of course it's a part I don't >-->need anymore.....you'll see what I mean ;-) hmmm... what could it be? ;) surprise shipment... must be carb related... ;) >-->If this sounds good, I'll take the box to the post office tomorrow and >-->send it priority mail...it shouldn't be much, the box is small and not >-->very heavy. absolutely awesome. And there will be a couple of the new FSJ stickers in with the check. :) Email the total and I'll have a check on it's way tomorrow afternoon. :) thanx buddy! >-->ttyl, >-->Tom >--> >-->P.S. I don't have the EGR tube. If I recall correctly, it was mangled >-->up pretty well when I went to remove it from the exhaust manifold (I got >-->to plug it up with the MPI install)....sorry. I think I can work that problem. I think I really need it, I'm pinging a bit more than I should. I think there is a flexible tube that can be used... Not sure how we mangled mine... Jim also suggested cutting it and rewelding it... So, I can work the EGR tube problem. :) What I need to do now is figure out how I can take a business trip that'll get me back down to Santa Barbara so I can see your MPI setup. :) thanx again. :) john ---- - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- john-at-wagoneers.com **** http://wagoneers.com don't leave life without Jesus, please... Snohomish, Washington USA - ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 04:14:40 -0400 From: Michael Baxter Subject: fsj: garage update... reporting from Snohomis john writes: >> a couple ideas include pouring a slab on the easement and making a garage that sits on skids... with hooks on the front... if they force me = to evacuate the easement I hook up Superdawg (and maybe Superpup too) and slide the structure onto my driveway and off the easement... << You don't have to get that fancy. Just apply for the variance, then the permit and build your garage were you want it to be. Then it is up to whoever wants to use the easement to work around your garage or build you= a suitable new one. I have a friend who built a garage on top of a sewer pipe easement. He applied for the permit knowing fully about the easement and the county issued it. The garage is done and now if the city wants to utilize the sewer easement, they'll just have to work around his garage or build him = a new one on the same spot after they finish laying the pipe. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 04:14:42 -0400 From: Michael Baxter Subject: fsj: Tim's questions on axles... john writes: >> >-->John,I can get a deal on a 8 lug W/T dana 44. Is it wider than the "normal" dana44 on my wag??also ti appears the brakes are no bigger than the 6 lug model. Can I fit 8 lug 15 inch wheels on this W/T axle? 8 lug? from what? = If it's from a J10, now, the 15" rims won't clear the brakes... The older J20's had 16 or 16.5" rims... if I'm understanding correctly... << 8 lug axles were only used on J-20s and are much wider than the axles on a Wagoneer and only the front axle would swap directly depending upon correct output shaft offset. I'd suggest Tim do some careful measuring. B= ut no e-mail address for Tim so, I hope he is on the list. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 04:14:39 -0400 From: Michael Baxter Subject: fsj: The ultimate in AMC V-8 water pumps? "Don Waggoner" writes: >> Michael - can you tell us where you got it and what the price was? I have the flow kooler on my 360 in the GW, but I am looking to upgrade the= pump in a 401 I have in another vehicle. If the GMB unit is better engineered, I would be interested. << "Landon Tesar" writes: >> >where can I get one ?  Seems like the 'ultimate' might be aluminum, but I'll take grey iron and stamped steel for stability. << And several more have replied via e-mail too. Carparts.com is where my GMB 1040P came from. I have e-mailed the customer service rep. helping me and asked her if I tell the almost 1,000= people on the two bigger FSJ lists that they can get a GMB from them as well, can they send you each the correct pump without sending 2 Airtex water pumps 1st. SuperKen, Michel, Brad S., John Miller and myself just came back from the Black Rock Trip and I have almost 100 e-mail messages.= I'll post the data when I get to a response. Landon, The Airtex pump was cast iron. I got a good look at two of them a= s I mentioned :-). And it was new not rebuilt. But it didn't have the high flow type impeller. The GMB pump is aluminum. I've had the regular GMB pu= mp on my Chero's 360 for 8-9 years now. No leaks, no problems. I think the GMB 1040P pump was $55-60 from Carparts.com. I'll try to remember to look-up the invoice and see for sure. It took me a little ove= r 2 months of monkeying with their customer service before I had a GMB 1040= P on my doorstep. I suggest if anyone orders a GMB 1040P from Carparts.com that you at the very least note "no substitutions please." The GMB pump is available from Autozone if your lucky enough to have one nearby. Their web site doesn't allow for mailorders. It is also liste= d by CSK Auto (Checker, Shucks, and Kragen) but, there was a special order,= or similar, notation which scared me off. And at one of the two sites above, the pump was listed under a different brand name. But the part numbers were the same. The key is the full part number: 110-1040P Also, the regular GMB 110-1040 without the "P" may be more than adequate for any AMC V-8 unless you're pulling heavy trailers in the mountains. GM= B says it has a more efficient impeller than the OEM pump resulting in something like 20-30% better flow. It's been a long time since I put the one on the Chero. but, I'd say it probably really is better than the OEM pump. I replaced the OEM in a desperate "throwing parts at it" session. After I finally figured-out the real problem was a bunch of brand new fan= clutches that weren't worth the box they came in, my engine did run coole= r in extreme conditions than it did before with the OEM pump and I get a feeling the GMB pump is part of the reason. The 20", 2 3/4" blade pitch, fan is the other variable so, I can't say it for sure. = ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 09:26:43 -0400 From: "B. COLUCCI" Subject: fsj: Picky Picky Greetings JeepNut! JeepNut wrote: > > Now it won't shut off! > I kid you not, after I got it fired up, I tried to shut it down... > and it wouldn't! What, you never said it had to shut off; you specifically said you wanted it to start. > > I am burning one killer Karmic ribbon here.... > So the FSM says for engines that won't die at key-off only 2 things. > Starter Solenoid Are you sure that you have the wiring on the new solenoid and the new relay correctly. Double check that relay especially; so many wires, and so many similar looking places to put them. > > Shorted Diode in Alternator warning lamp circuit Replace > Diode. > Does this mean a diode in the alternator? or elsewhere?... Wait, I don't think you have an Alt. warning lamp on an 88; have you ever seen one? So it has to ne something cooked in the Alt itself. Did I see something about a mystery wire you found near your Alt? If so did you hook it up? I would try to unhook it and tape it off and see if you have the same problem. > > > Thursday! And about 4 acres of grass to cut, I have 6 acres; there is never enough time. Until The Next Dimension, Admiral "Coluch." Starfleet Headquarters Ohio Post End Transmission........................................ ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 09:42:27 -0500 From: Jamie.L.Phillips-at-us.ul.com Subject: fsj: '77 F250 I know this is a Jeep list, but I know a number of people out there also drive F-Series trucks, and if they are in the Chicago area they may be interested. My wife and I have finally come to the understanding that I only need one project vehicle (my '73 J-4000) and I need to sell my '77 F250 (2 wheel drive), 300 straight six (manual with 1st being an unsynchronized "granny gear"). I'm thinking $100 for the truck without the flat bed, another $300 for the flat bed. I just built the flate bed about a month or two ago and spent about $300 in materials alone. If you are interested in pictures, let me know. The truck runs (I still drive it to work (10 miles one way) and to reserve drill (60 miles one way), but it does have problems. I would fix it, but I just don't have the time and energy to work on two vehicles. Problems: 1. runs poorly at low RPMs - I think I have sealed all vacum leaks and believe it needs a new timing chain (RPMs actually jump around at idle) 2. carb needs adjustment/work 3. turn signal switch doesn't work - I can take it out and it will work, then put it back and it stops 4. clutch linkage needs work 5. new exhaust, but the lead donut comming from the exhaust manifold needs to be replaced Positive: 1. tires are good, just replaced the rear tires this past year 2. last year, rivited steel to fix floor and then fiberglassed 3. decent bench seat from '93 F150, full bench seat with head rests which seems to be rare 4. brakes are good (replaced all but a few sections of line) 5. runs well on the highway I will be leaving for awhile (until middle of next month) and the truck will be just sitting. If someone is interested in the truck or parts let me know and I will contact you as soon as I can. I must get rid of it by the end of next month. Later, Jamie "making compromises with the wife" Phillips '73 J4600 '77 F250 home email: jphil78888-at-aol.com work email: Jamie.L.Phillips-at-us.ul.com ********* Internet E-mail Confidentiality Disclaimer ********** This e-mail message may contain privileged or confidential information. If you are not the intended recipient, you may not disclose, use, disseminate, distribute, copy or rely upon this message or attachment in any way. If you received this e-mail message in error, please delete the e-mail and any attachments and notify Underwriters Laboratories Inc. at e-mail_Disclaimer-at-us.ul.com. UL does not accept liability for any errors, omissions, corruption or virus in the contents of this message or any attachments that arise as a result of e-mail transmission. ************************************************************************** ------------------------------ End of fsj-digest V1 #868 *************************