From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Wed Nov 16 18:14:00 2011
From: fsj-digest <owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net>
To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net
Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 00:38:22 +0000
Subject: fsj-digest V1 #3821
fsj-digest Thursday, November 17 2011 Volume 01 : Number 3821
Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps
Brian Colucci <ABCvoice-at-worldnet.att.net>
Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Re: fsj: Re: flames
RE: fsj: Re: flames
fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
RE: fsj: Re: flames
Re: fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
fsj: RE: Lights doing really weird stuff
RE: fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 20:15:36 -0200
From: Ernesto Silva <erniesilva-at-gmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Re: flames
Once again I wrote a message and sent it to some user, not to the list.....
sorry Michael.
Here it goes again... (to the list this time, I hope).
I bought a 400Amps switch for my 64' Wag, (which I haven't installed yet),
and I plan to put it below the air filter and handle it from inside the
cab, you can see some pictures of the Wag here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/117315673147950435946/MyJeep?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCIjdhIGS1K7JpAE&feat=directlink
I plan to connect the positive wire from the battery directly to the switch
so I can cut the entire electrical system down in no time.
I haven't got the time to do any work on the Wag, I barely changed the air
filter because I didn't like the old one, it was bolted to the admission.
There are some pictures of the 4.203 Perkins diesel engine = 4 cylinders,
203 cu.in = 3.3 l. I don't know if it's an Argentinian or the original UK
version.
The engine "smokes" a little (white - oil smoke) but it starts fine, I've
got it dead for 3 months (the time that took me to change the air filter)
and started in the first turn. The battery is about 80 A/H, not too much
but it manages to move the engine in my cold winter days.... not less than
0 degrees.
On Tue, Nov 15, 2011 at 5:20 PM, john <john-at-wagoneers.com> wrote:
> .....
> and yeah, pulling the battery cable is a good idea, but I don't want
> to stand there loosening the clamp either...
>
> That's why I bought a 400Amp switch, so I can cut the positive battery
wire before it delivers more power, unless there's a short between the
positive battery clamp and my new switch :) , but as this wire will be 2 ft
long max. I'll manage to put a good isolation on every end and clamping
parts.
Well, I also intend to turn the switch off all the time the Wag is parked
(99% of the time) below my daughter's bedroom (woodden floor).
Regards,
Ernesto.
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 11:37:48 -0800
From: Jim Blair <carnuck1-at-msn.com>
Subject: RE: fsj: Re: flames
6.0 on fire (not an uncommon occurrence either!)
http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/161052-6-0-fire.html
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 11:20:43 -0800
> From: john-at-wagoneers.com
> To: carnuck1-at-msn.com
> CC: michelbalea-at-gmail.com; fsj-at-digest.net
> Subject: RE: fsj: Re: flames
>
> the danger of opening the hood is a flash fire, it's true
> that some oxygen comes in from below, but the carbon dioxide
> from the fire tends to suppress this as it's heavier than air,
> in addition there upper part of the hood area will be oxygen starved
> and smoldering, when you open the hood you introduce vast amounts
> of fresh air and what was smoldering now becomes instantly ignited,
>
> and it's even worse if it's a gas fire... you could have puddles
> of smoldering gas on top just waiting for the stoiciometric combination
> to absolutely ruin what's left of your day...
>
> if my jeep was smoldering, I'd get a thick set of leather gloves on,
> a bunch of rags or an old jacket or something like that, open the hood
> with my head down low and back... and start swatting flames,
>
> and yeah, pulling the battery cable is a good idea, but I don't want
> to stand there loosening the clamp either...
>
> most engine fires are small and contained to a small area... if you
> can get to them quickly and smother/swat them you have a chance, but
> once all that grease and oil and vacuum plumbing starts you might
> as well break out the marshmellows...
>
> really bugs me to see the fire department just smash out the grille to
> attempt to put out the fire, they could just put the hose up from below,
> I think these guys just love ruining what could be salvageable parts...
>
> you know that comprehensive insurance covers fire damage and is very,
> very affordable... fire, theft and vandalism and as I learned animal
> incidents... Even if you don't carry collision insurance, comprehensive
> is a good deal...
>
>
> oh, one other point that y'all should be aware of, but I'm going to say
> it anyway just so that it's not missed...
>
> NEVER USE WATER on a gasoline or grease fire... only use C02, powder
> or halon... spraying water on a gas or grease fire could cause it to
> spread...
>
> ...however, if you're in my shop and my truck lights off on fire you'll
> see me hosing it down... ;) a misting spray will help to cool and disperse
> the fire... and it's better than nothing...
>
> I have made the mistake of discharging a powder extinguisher in an engine
> with a carb fire... if you have one of those try cranking the engine to
> draw the flames into the engine... or use rags to snuff it out... what
> a mess that stuff was to clean off... :)
>
>
> The best way of dealing with car fires is to avoid them... Make sure that
wires
> are NOT rubbing on anything, wrap some electrical or duct tape around
them... tie
> wrap them up off of sharp or hot edges... make sure fuel lines are in good
shape...
> try to degrease the engine once every decade or so... watch out for rodent
nests
> and pine needles and leaves...
>
> AND MY BEST SUGGESTION FOR AVOIDING VEHICLE FIRES: GET A DIESEL. :)
>
> if you are able to get an underhood fire with a Diesel you've really
accomplished
> something... I've had injector lines split and completely cover the engine
bay
> and engine and surrounding neighborhoods... drove it home, it was smoking or
vaporing,
> but you can't get it hot enough to ignite... just let it cool down, maybe
mist
> it with the garden hose and fix the leak...
>
> Don't try to drive a gasoline vehicle with a spewing injector line... your
results won't be the same...
>
>
> just read about two firey crashes in the area, small gasoline powered
cars... gasoline is not
> only expensive, it's dangerous...
>
> john
>
>
> -----
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all
> Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
> http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
> http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> On Tue, 15 Nov 2011, Jim Blair wrote:
>
> # ANY fire has the tendency to melt wires. A small oil fire will melt the
wires
> # then the power of the battery will accelerate the fire. Opening the hood
> # without an extinguisher may not be wise, but oxygen gets in from the
bottom,
> # not the top. All you do is create a hot box under the hood.
> #
> # Written laws are like spiders' webs, and will
> # like them only Entangle and hold the poor and
> # weak, while the rich and powerful will easily
> # break through them
> #
> # ANACHARSIS Scythian philosopher (fl. 600 BC)
> #
> # > Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:22:39 -0800
> # > Subject: Re: fsj: Re: flames
> # > From: michelbalea-at-gmail.com
> # > To: carnuck-at-hotmail.com
> # > CC: tsp-at-crptruck.com; fsj-at-digest.net
> # >
> # > Sure if it is electrical fire...
> # >
> # > And for oil fire..... usually the PS starts to leak.... common on Hi 80
to
> # > Donner pass.... we see a lot of BBQ in the summer.
> # >
> # > M
> # >
> # > On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 7:56 PM, Jim Blair <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
wrote:
> # >
> # > > You want to disconnect the battery ASAP if there is a fire.
> # > >
> # > > Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10
> # > >
> # > >
> # > > > Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 17:52:20 -0800
> # > > > Subject: Re: fsj: Re: flames
> # > > > From: michelbalea-at-gmail.com
> # > > > To: tsp-at-crptruck.com
> # > > > CC: fsj-at-digest.net
> # > >
> # > > >
> # > > > I thought that the rule is "not to open the hood" and aim the fire
> # > > > extinguisher thru the radiator. The opening gives a big intake of
> # oxygen.
> # > > > Michel
> # > > >
> # > > > On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 4:25 PM, Troy Phagan <tsp-at-crptruck.com>
wrote:
> # > > >
> # > > > > RE: flames,
> # > > > >
> # > > > > I spent several hours adjusting the hood latches on my GW the
other
> # > > day.
> # > > > > It wasn't popping open correctly. It took two people to get the
hood
> # > > > > open. Besides the inconvenience, it made me a little nervous that
if
> # > > there
> # > > > > was ever a mechanical emergency or a fire, I would be able to get
the
> # > > hood
> # > > > > open by myself to deal with it.... a small fire would have
turned
> # into
> # > > a
> # > > > > total conflagration. I think I will paint some flames on mine,
too,
> # > > just
> # > > > > as insurance though!
> #
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 18:17:18 -0600
From: Ken Gaines <arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com>
Subject: fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
Okay...
So about a month ago I had an alternator belt slip and the electrical
system burped for a split second. Now my interior dash lights stay on as
long as the ignition is on. Also my tail lights stay on unless I turn on
the turn signals. Only the left turn signal works. The right signal will
turn on but won't flash. I just changed all the bulbs and the turn flasher
too. No joy. Did something under the dash get fused together when the
alternator burped?
HELP
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 21:01:09 -0800 (PST)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: RE: fsj: Re: flames
there's fires and then there are fires...
the video was pulled... once Diesel starts to burn it is very intense, lots of energy...
but the good part about it is it generally takes a lot to get it going and if you
catch it early enough you can snuff it before it takes off... very rarely
do you hear of Diesel vehicle owners dying in a vehicle fire... yet last weekend
there were five people killed in this area because of gasoline fires after accidents,
one on lake city way where the little GAS car burst into flames, another one
up on whidbey where they hit a tree and caught on fire... these things don't happen
to Diesel vehicles, they don't burst into flames, if there is a fire there and
the fuel is leaking it can and will burn but it's not an explosion...
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 15 Nov 2011, Jim Blair wrote:
# 6.0 on fire (not an uncommon occurrence either!)
# http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/general-6-0l-discussion/161052-6-0-fire.html
#
# > Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 11:20:43 -0800
# > From: john-at-wagoneers.com
# > To: carnuck1-at-msn.com
# > CC: michelbalea-at-gmail.com; fsj-at-digest.net
# > Subject: RE: fsj: Re: flames
# >
# > the danger of opening the hood is a flash fire, it's true
# > that some oxygen comes in from below, but the carbon dioxide
# > from the fire tends to suppress this as it's heavier than air,
# > in addition there upper part of the hood area will be oxygen starved
# > and smoldering, when you open the hood you introduce vast amounts
# > of fresh air and what was smoldering now becomes instantly ignited,
# >
# > and it's even worse if it's a gas fire... you could have puddles
# > of smoldering gas on top just waiting for the stoiciometric combination
# > to absolutely ruin what's left of your day...
# >
# > if my jeep was smoldering, I'd get a thick set of leather gloves on,
# > a bunch of rags or an old jacket or something like that, open the hood
# > with my head down low and back... and start swatting flames,
# >
# > and yeah, pulling the battery cable is a good idea, but I don't want
# > to stand there loosening the clamp either...
# >
# > most engine fires are small and contained to a small area... if you
# > can get to them quickly and smother/swat them you have a chance, but
# > once all that grease and oil and vacuum plumbing starts you might
# > as well break out the marshmellows...
# >
# > really bugs me to see the fire department just smash out the grille to
# > attempt to put out the fire, they could just put the hose up from below,
# > I think these guys just love ruining what could be salvageable parts...
# >
# > you know that comprehensive insurance covers fire damage and is very,
# > very affordable... fire, theft and vandalism and as I learned animal
# > incidents... Even if you don't carry collision insurance, comprehensive
# > is a good deal...
# >
# >
# > oh, one other point that y'all should be aware of, but I'm going to say
# > it anyway just so that it's not missed...
# >
# > NEVER USE WATER on a gasoline or grease fire... only use C02, powder
# > or halon... spraying water on a gas or grease fire could cause it to
# > spread...
# >
# > ...however, if you're in my shop and my truck lights off on fire you'll
# > see me hosing it down... ;) a misting spray will help to cool and disperse
# > the fire... and it's better than nothing...
# >
# > I have made the mistake of discharging a powder extinguisher in an engine
# > with a carb fire... if you have one of those try cranking the engine to
# > draw the flames into the engine... or use rags to snuff it out... what
# > a mess that stuff was to clean off... :)
# >
# >
# > The best way of dealing with car fires is to avoid them... Make sure that
# wires
# > are NOT rubbing on anything, wrap some electrical or duct tape around
# them... tie
# > wrap them up off of sharp or hot edges... make sure fuel lines are in good
# shape...
# > try to degrease the engine once every decade or so... watch out for rodent
# nests
# > and pine needles and leaves...
# >
# > AND MY BEST SUGGESTION FOR AVOIDING VEHICLE FIRES: GET A DIESEL. :)
# >
# > if you are able to get an underhood fire with a Diesel you've really
# accomplished
# > something... I've had injector lines split and completely cover the engine
# bay
# > and engine and surrounding neighborhoods... drove it home, it was smoking or
# vaporing,
# > but you can't get it hot enough to ignite... just let it cool down, maybe
# mist
# > it with the garden hose and fix the leak...
# >
# > Don't try to drive a gasoline vehicle with a spewing injector line... your
# results won't be the same...
# >
# >
# > just read about two firey crashes in the area, small gasoline powered
# cars... gasoline is not
# > only expensive, it's dangerous...
# >
# > john
# >
# >
# > -----
# > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all
# > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
# > http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
# > http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
# > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
# >
# >
# > On Tue, 15 Nov 2011, Jim Blair wrote:
# >
# > # ANY fire has the tendency to melt wires. A small oil fire will melt the
# wires
# > # then the power of the battery will accelerate the fire. Opening the hood
# > # without an extinguisher may not be wise, but oxygen gets in from the
# bottom,
# > # not the top. All you do is create a hot box under the hood.
# > #
# > # Written laws are like spiders' webs, and will
# > # like them only Entangle and hold the poor and
# > # weak, while the rich and powerful will easily
# > # break through them
# > #
# > # ANACHARSIS Scythian philosopher (fl. 600 BC)
# > #
# > # > Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 21:22:39 -0800
# > # > Subject: Re: fsj: Re: flames
# > # > From: michelbalea-at-gmail.com
# > # > To: carnuck-at-hotmail.com
# > # > CC: tsp-at-crptruck.com; fsj-at-digest.net
# > # >
# > # > Sure if it is electrical fire...
# > # >
# > # > And for oil fire..... usually the PS starts to leak.... common on Hi 80
# to
# > # > Donner pass.... we see a lot of BBQ in the summer.
# > # >
# > # > M
# > # >
# > # > On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 7:56 PM, Jim Blair <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
# wrote:
# > # >
# > # > > You want to disconnect the battery ASAP if there is a fire.
# > # > >
# > # > > Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10
# > # > >
# > # > >
# > # > > > Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 17:52:20 -0800
# > # > > > Subject: Re: fsj: Re: flames
# > # > > > From: michelbalea-at-gmail.com
# > # > > > To: tsp-at-crptruck.com
# > # > > > CC: fsj-at-digest.net
# > # > >
# > # > > >
# > # > > > I thought that the rule is "not to open the hood" and aim the fire
# > # > > > extinguisher thru the radiator. The opening gives a big intake of
# > # oxygen.
# > # > > > Michel
# > # > > >
# > # > > > On Mon, Nov 14, 2011 at 4:25 PM, Troy Phagan <tsp-at-crptruck.com>
# wrote:
# > # > > >
# > # > > > > RE: flames,
# > # > > > >
# > # > > > > I spent several hours adjusting the hood latches on my GW the
# other
# > # > > day.
# > # > > > > It wasn't popping open correctly. It took two people to get the
# hood
# > # > > > > open. Besides the inconvenience, it made me a little nervous that
# if
# > # > > there
# > # > > > > was ever a mechanical emergency or a fire, I would be able to get
# the
# > # > > hood
# > # > > > > open by myself to deal with it.... a small fire would have
# turned
# > # into
# > # > > a
# > # > > > > total conflagration. I think I will paint some flames on mine,
# too,
# > # > > just
# > # > > > > as insurance though!
# > #
#
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 21:07:10 -0800 (PST)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
sounds like it could be that, or a bad ground...
just start looking at all your wiring, cleaning all the connectors, tightening
grounds, taping and tie-wrappying up any wires laying against something, looking
for melted wires, heat damaged switches, etc.
get some good electrical contact cleaner, a roll of electrical tape and start hunting...
corrosion any where could cause these types of symptoms because of bad grounds,
you'll have some really strange results and circuits because of them... where
stuff will feedback through another circuit because it has a better ground...
in the 40 plus years I've been troubleshooting electronics when I run into something
goofy like that I first check the battery/power source, adjust it if necesary, then
make sure all my grounds are super good and clean, then power connections, then switches,
then every connector and wire...
once I'm done with that I may find a bad switch, bad fuse, shorted wires or just have
all the goofiness go away...
my J10 has kind of been like this... I still need to clean the fuel sending unit
wiring and maybe run a ground from the frame to the cab to the bed to get the
fuel gauge 100%. but it starts instantly now, didn't before... all the lights,
well, except the backup lights, work... still need to figure that out, but again,
likely the fact that I haven't run a ground wire from the frame to the bed yet...
Kirchoff's Law will not be violated... what goes in, must come out... preferably
where we'd like it to... :)
john
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 15 Nov 2011, Ken Gaines wrote:
# Okay...
# So about a month ago I had an alternator belt slip and the electrical
# system burped for a split second. Now my interior dash lights stay on as
# long as the ignition is on. Also my tail lights stay on unless I turn on
# the turn signals. Only the left turn signal works. The right signal will
# turn on but won't flash. I just changed all the bulbs and the turn flasher
# too. No joy. Did something under the dash get fused together when the
# alternator burped?
# HELP
#
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 07:24:06 -0600
From: "Potter, Tom E" <Tom.E.Potter-at-Williams.com>
Subject: fsj: RE: Lights doing really weird stuff
I spent some time (and quite a few bucks) solving a similar problem on My
granddaughter's 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. The right brake light would not
function properly. When she turned on the parking lights or headlights and
pressed the brake, the tail light would go out (no tail light or brake
light).
Step 1, I changed the bulb. No change. I checked the bulb holder contacts, and
they looked good but the plastic was dark from heat.
Step 2, I swapped the tail light assembly to the driver's side. The problem
followed the assembly. Conclusion: faulty assembly.
Step 3, I got a used assembly off E-bay and installed it. Same problem. I
repeat Step 2.
Step 4, I purchased a NEW tail light assembly and installed it. Same problem.
I repeat Step 2. Now I am really confused. I am ready to give up and turn it
over to an auto electrician.
Step 5, I am discussing the problem with a friend while we are examining the
tail light assembly. He mentions that the bulb holder looks burned. I had
checked the bulb holder contacts previously and they looked good. At that
point, I remembered from my distant past that some plastics become conductive
when subjected to heat.
Step 6, I replaced the bulb holder with a good one from one of the other
assemblies. Voila, it worked perfectly. The overheated bulb holder was the
problem.
I hope this info helps someone in the future.
Thomas E. Potter
Technical Specialist II
Transcontinental Gas Pipe Line Company, LLC
Office: (713) 215-2877
Cell: (832) 794-0536
Fax: (713) 215-2551
E-mail: tom.e.potter-at-williams.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of Ken
Gaines
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 6:17 PM
To: fsj-at-digest.net
Subject: fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
Okay...
So about a month ago I had an alternator belt slip and the electrical
system burped for a split second. Now my interior dash lights stay on as
long as the ignition is on. Also my tail lights stay on unless I turn on
the turn signals. Only the left turn signal works. The right signal will
turn on but won't flash. I just changed all the bulbs and the turn flasher
too. No joy. Did something under the dash get fused together when the
alternator burped?
HELP
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 10:22:50 -0800
From: Jim Blair <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
And hopefully not in the form of excessive heat!
> Date: Tue, 15 Nov 2011 21:07:10 -0800
> From: john-at-wagoneers.com
> To: arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
> CC: fsj-at-digest.net
> Subject: Re: fsj: Lights doing really weird stuff
>
> sounds like it could be that, or a bad ground...
>
> just start looking at all your wiring, cleaning all the connectors,
tightening
> grounds, taping and tie-wrappying up any wires laying against something,
looking
> for melted wires, heat damaged switches, etc.
>
> get some good electrical contact cleaner, a roll of electrical tape and
start hunting...
>
> corrosion any where could cause these types of symptoms because of bad
grounds,
> you'll have some really strange results and circuits because of them...
where
> stuff will feedback through another circuit because it has a better
ground...
>
>
> in the 40 plus years I've been troubleshooting electronics when I run into
something
> goofy like that I first check the battery/power source, adjust it if
necesary, then
> make sure all my grounds are super good and clean, then power connections,
then switches,
> then every connector and wire...
>
> once I'm done with that I may find a bad switch, bad fuse, shorted wires or
just have
> all the goofiness go away...
>
> my J10 has kind of been like this... I still need to clean the fuel sending
unit
> wiring and maybe run a ground from the frame to the cab to the bed to get
the
> fuel gauge 100%. but it starts instantly now, didn't before... all the
lights,
> well, except the backup lights, work... still need to figure that out, but
again,
> likely the fact that I haven't run a ground wire from the frame to the bed
yet...
>
> Kirchoff's Law will not be violated... what goes in, must come out...
preferably
> where we'd like it to... :)
>
> john
>
>
>
> -----
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all
> Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
> http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
> http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> On Tue, 15 Nov 2011, Ken Gaines wrote:
>
> # Okay...
> # So about a month ago I had an alternator belt slip and the electrical
> # system burped for a split second. Now my interior dash lights stay on as
> # long as the ignition is on. Also my tail lights stay on unless I turn on
> # the turn signals. Only the left turn signal works. The right signal will
> # turn on but won't flash. I just changed all the bulbs and the turn
flasher
> # too. No joy. Did something under the dash get fused together when the
> # alternator burped?
> # HELP
> #
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