From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Mon Feb 13 11:00:00 2012
From: fsj-digest <owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net>
To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 19:00:13 +0000
Subject: fsj-digest V1 #3858
fsj-digest Monday, February 13 2012 Volume 01 : Number 3858
Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps
Brian Colucci <ABCvoice-at-worldnet.att.net>
Digest Coordinator
Contents:
fsj: Re: fsj-digest V1 #3857
Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
fsj: high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation motor oil
fsj: Anyone need a 20 tooth speedo gear? He wants $25 shipped US
RE: fsj: high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation motor oil
FSJ Digest Home Page: http://www.digest.net/jeeps/fsj/
Send submissions to fsj-digest-at-digest.net
Send administrative requests to fsj-digest-request-at-digest.net
To unsubscribe, include the word unsubscribe by itself in the body of
the message, unless you are sending the request from a different address
than the one that appears on the list. Include the word help in a
message to fsj-digest-request to get a list of other majordomo
commands.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 09:15:37 -0700
From: Troy Phagan <tsp-at-crptruck.com>
Subject: fsj: Re: fsj-digest V1 #3857
Subject: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
BJ's lists Universal type from Painless on their site.
zmjeeps.com used to list some wiring, but I haven't looked for a long time.
www.teamgrandwagoneer.com lists some sub-harnesses.
Let us know how it goes!
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 16:20:41 +0000
From: john <fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
I think zach at zmjeep sells one and so does brad at bjsoffroad, both kits are quite expensive.
My j10 is doing some stupid stuff right now as well, tried to use it yesterday and the battery had drained, then it would just cut off. At random. Idling or trying to drive.
I think I need to pull the rats nest of wiring out from under the dash. Finish the bypass of the amp guage and clean up spurious PO stereo and aux light installs. The stereo may be part of the problem, even though I rewired it to correct power sources it comes on when it feels like, even with the ignition off! It's an unusual brand, poltergeist electronics or something like that. (Just kidding).
What I've done on several of my fsjs is to create my own wiring harness. You sort out all the wires that are there, unbundle them and then trace from switch to source and load. Then create a new bundle with a snip and splice at each end. Then tie wrap, tape and route away from heat, feet and sharp edges.
A j10 will be a lot easier than a gw. My J10 is simple, no power anything, not even a dome light. :)
I've been working on the idea of building a harness set so an fsj owner could just drop it in. Problem is these things are all a mess and they all seem slightly different by year and PO.
I replaced my fusible link with a 100A fuse, but didn't complete the amp gauge bypass, so my problem may be fixed by placing a jumper on the back of my amp gauge and tracing both sides and replacing those wires.
My J10 is a very likely upcoming roadside attraction and car-b-q otherwise.
Pictures of either event forthcoming. :)
John
- ------Original Message------
From: Ken Gaines
Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net
To: FSJ
ReplyTo: Ken Gaines
Subject: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Sent: Feb 13, 2012 08:02
So....my alternator decided to burp and send a nice current jolt through my
fuse box. In the process, it fused several lighting wires together. I
started repairing the mess and decided that it might be better to just
rewire the whole truck considering all the other electrical gremlins that
are bound to rear their heads. I had a look at the Painless Performance
site and they don't list a harness for the Wagoneer. Does anyone know of a
good source for a new/replacement harness?
- --
Ken Gaines
Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman
Arklatex Geographics, LLC
(318) 422-5731 Mobile
arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
http://www.arklatexgeo.com
__john_at_http://wagoneers.com__
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 16:31:55 +0000
From: john <fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Ken, I'm also trying to design a simple headlight relay kit to market. I've got all the pieces needed except the male pins to go into an old headlight socket. I am thinking about using wire clamp-in splices to feed the relays, you know the kind hitch outfits often use for trailer wiring. I don't like using them but they won't be handling much current. Need to check more sources to build a connector. That would be better, less challenges. The wiring is tight anyway.
John
- ------Original Message------
From: Ken Gaines
Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net
To: FSJ
ReplyTo: Ken Gaines
Subject: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Sent: Feb 13, 2012 08:02
So....my alternator decided to burp and send a nice current jolt through my
fuse box. In the process, it fused several lighting wires together. I
started repairing the mess and decided that it might be better to just
rewire the whole truck considering all the other electrical gremlins that
are bound to rear their heads. I had a look at the Painless Performance
site and they don't list a harness for the Wagoneer. Does anyone know of a
good source for a new/replacement harness?
- --
Ken Gaines
Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman
Arklatex Geographics, LLC
(318) 422-5731 Mobile
arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
http://www.arklatexgeo.com
__john_at_http://wagoneers.com__
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:45:29 -0600
From: Ken Gaines <arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Once I get the wiring in this thing CORRECTLY repaired, I plan to upgrade
my headlights to something with a little more output...HIDs maybe. Whatever
I decide to do, you can bet it will be a far cry from the lights that are
in the thing now. The current (literally...LOL) problem is just to get it
all working right. I don't need to be another roadside BBQ as John put it.
I hate those clamp-on splice connections too. They will eventually fall
apart and break the connection. I like to physically splice and solder then
shrink wrap if I have to do something like that.
On Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 10:31 AM, john <fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com> wrote:
> Ken, I'm also trying to design a simple headlight relay kit to market.
> I've got all the pieces needed except the male pins to go into an old
> headlight socket. I am thinking about using wire clamp-in splices to feed
> the relays, you know the kind hitch outfits often use for trailer wiring. I
> don't like using them but they won't be handling much current. Need to
> check more sources to build a connector. That would be better, less
> challenges. The wiring is tight anyway.
>
> John
> ------Original Message------
> From: Ken Gaines
> Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net
> To: FSJ
> ReplyTo: Ken Gaines
> Subject: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
> Sent: Feb 13, 2012 08:02
>
> So....my alternator decided to burp and send a nice current jolt through my
> fuse box. In the process, it fused several lighting wires together. I
> started repairing the mess and decided that it might be better to just
> rewire the whole truck considering all the other electrical gremlins that
> are bound to rear their heads. I had a look at the Painless Performance
> site and they don't list a harness for the Wagoneer. Does anyone know of a
> good source for a new/replacement harness?
>
> --
> Ken Gaines
> Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman
> Arklatex Geographics, LLC
> (318) 422-5731 Mobile
> arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
> http://www.arklatexgeo.com
>
>
> __john_at_http://wagoneers.com__
>
- --
Ken Gaines
Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman
Arklatex Geographics, LLC
(318) 422-5731 Mobile
arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
http://www.arklatexgeo.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 16:47:19 +0000
From: john <fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
A plug in to the headlight socket is the best, need to find a male plug setup.
__john_at_http://wagoneers.com__
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Gaines <arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com>
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:45:29
To: <john-at-wagoneers.com>; <fsj-at-digest.net>
Subject: Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
Once I get the wiring in this thing CORRECTLY repaired, I plan to upgrade
my headlights to something with a little more output...HIDs maybe. Whatever
I decide to do, you can bet it will be a far cry from the lights that are
in the thing now. The current (literally...LOL) problem is just to get it
all working right. I don't need to be another roadside BBQ as John put it.
I hate those clamp-on splice connections too. They will eventually fall
apart and break the connection. I like to physically splice and solder then
shrink wrap if I have to do something like that.
On Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 10:31 AM, john <fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com> wrote:
> Ken, I'm also trying to design a simple headlight relay kit to market.
> I've got all the pieces needed except the male pins to go into an old
> headlight socket. I am thinking about using wire clamp-in splices to feed
> the relays, you know the kind hitch outfits often use for trailer wiring. I
> don't like using them but they won't be handling much current. Need to
> check more sources to build a connector. That would be better, less
> challenges. The wiring is tight anyway.
>
> John
> ------Original Message------
> From: Ken Gaines
> Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net
> To: FSJ
> ReplyTo: Ken Gaines
> Subject: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
> Sent: Feb 13, 2012 08:02
>
> So....my alternator decided to burp and send a nice current jolt through my
> fuse box. In the process, it fused several lighting wires together. I
> started repairing the mess and decided that it might be better to just
> rewire the whole truck considering all the other electrical gremlins that
> are bound to rear their heads. I had a look at the Painless Performance
> site and they don't list a harness for the Wagoneer. Does anyone know of a
> good source for a new/replacement harness?
>
> --
> Ken Gaines
> Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman
> Arklatex Geographics, LLC
> (318) 422-5731 Mobile
> arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
> http://www.arklatexgeo.com
>
>
> __john_at_http://wagoneers.com__
>
- --
Ken Gaines
Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman
Arklatex Geographics, LLC
(318) 422-5731 Mobile
arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
http://www.arklatexgeo.com
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:02:58 -0800 (PST)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
you want to insert relays (one for hi, one for low) to provide
battery power to the headlights, of whatever flavor you choose.
simply take the output from the bulb socket and go to pin 86 on
a standard auto type spdt relay... battery to pin 30, ground to 85,
87a is NC - don't use it, use 87 - the headlight lo or hi beam
will energize the coil via pin 86, pull the contact down to 87
and provide battery power to the headlight, eliminating the
current flow through the old ford style switch pre-86 or whatever
they run after that... you still may have to replace the switch
and some of the wiring/connectors that got cooked.
but it won't matter what you connect via that relay... unless it
exceeds 20 or 30 amps, then you'll just need a heftier relay...
or one for each side... one 20A relay will handle about 275 Watts,
give or take a few... of course you'd want to derate that by at
least 30% for heat, so you'd want to run about 190 Watts through
one 20A relay, if it's 30A, then you could go 414 Watts, derated to
290 Watts... (btw, most of those devices are already showing a
derated value... you'd have to read the specs... with the reduction
in quality imports though they may not provide that same derated
value, so it's best to derate your design... this is where
the french screw up big time... they fail to derate... they design
to the bleeding edge, then their customers get cut... you have
to go to the edge, then step back just a bit... amercians and
germans have this figured out... that's why our jeeps and mercedes
and vws get us home while french and early korean and some japanese
vehicles don't... we won't even discuss the italians or the brits,
they didn't get out of the driveway... ;) (just kidding... kind of...)
most H4 bulbs are in the 55W range, unless you bump up... so two
stock H4 bulbs would require 110W / 13.8 volts will give you about
8A of current...
so the 20A relay should handle even higher output Halogen bulbs.
HID setups use a step up transformer and operate at higher frequencies
and voltages so the power factor is similar, just a higher voltage
is applied to the lamps to get the arc going... not sure of
total power draw, but it won't be a simple math problem because
you're inverting the power through the HID unit... Power factor
is still somewhat the same, well, not exactly... equivalent wattage
could be determined by the lumen output... haven't really looked
into it... if someone knew what the step up voltage was, wattage
of the HID type bulbs and anticipated current draw on the light
side, how they stepped up and inverted the power I could estimate
the amount of required input. If I were designing the HID unit
I'd design it to clamp and operate at a lower input voltage,
so there will be some "waste" there... I'd design it to operate
near 11V DC, that way the light output would be constant even at
startup and consistent regardless of load... but it'll have to
control the input source, likely at the expense of some heat...
anyone got any details about the aftermarket HID setup? It wouldn't
take much to design a power source unit to power the lamps if
I knew that frequency/voltage they used. I've designed or supported
various power inverter circuits and power supplies for a few commercial
products with wings, none of them have fallen out of the sky yet either.
And, we have a perfect record, every bird that's gone up, has come
back down... haven't left one up there yet... I'd like to think that
my circuits are partially responsible for that too... ;) I do miss
circuit design, but it's been over 20 years now... wow...
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all - please reply to: john-at-wagoneers.com
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Mon, 13 Feb 2012, Ken Gaines wrote:
# Once I get the wiring in this thing CORRECTLY repaired, I plan to upgrade
# my headlights to something with a little more output...HIDs maybe. Whatever
# I decide to do, you can bet it will be a far cry from the lights that are
# in the thing now. The current (literally...LOL) problem is just to get it
# all working right. I don't need to be another roadside BBQ as John put it.
# I hate those clamp-on splice connections too. They will eventually fall
# apart and break the connection. I like to physically splice and solder then
# shrink wrap if I have to do something like that.
#
# On Mon, Feb 13, 2012 at 10:31 AM, john <fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com> wrote:
#
# > Ken, I'm also trying to design a simple headlight relay kit to market.
# > I've got all the pieces needed except the male pins to go into an old
# > headlight socket. I am thinking about using wire clamp-in splices to feed
# > the relays, you know the kind hitch outfits often use for trailer wiring. I
# > don't like using them but they won't be handling much current. Need to
# > check more sources to build a connector. That would be better, less
# > challenges. The wiring is tight anyway.
# >
# > John
# > ------Original Message------
# > From: Ken Gaines
# > Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net
# > To: FSJ
# > ReplyTo: Ken Gaines
# > Subject: fsj: Wiring Harness for FSJ
# > Sent: Feb 13, 2012 08:02
# >
# > So....my alternator decided to burp and send a nice current jolt through my
# > fuse box. In the process, it fused several lighting wires together. I
# > started repairing the mess and decided that it might be better to just
# > rewire the whole truck considering all the other electrical gremlins that
# > are bound to rear their heads. I had a look at the Painless Performance
# > site and they don't list a harness for the Wagoneer. Does anyone know of a
# > good source for a new/replacement harness?
# >
# > --
# > Ken Gaines
# > Sr. GIS Analyst/Petroleum Landman
# > Arklatex Geographics, LLC
# > (318) 422-5731 Mobile
# > arklatexgeo-at-gmail.com
# > http://www.arklatexgeo.com
# >
# >
# > __john_at_http://wagoneers.com__
# >
#
#
#
#
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:27:55 -0800 (PST)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: fsj: high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation motor oil
for those of us with older engines... a shameless plug... ;)
of course you can buy it elsewhere, sharing the info below on this
amsoil product that solves a problem...
Trying to remember why they want to pull zinc, is it messing with cats? (not
the furry kind, the catalytic type... ;)
john
On Mon, 13 Feb 2012, Tesar Landon-R16884 wrote:
# John, do you know Amsoil's approach to dealing with the conflict of
reducing
zinc/moly and flat tappet camshafts?
# Have they published something on this?
#
# - Landon
I knew I saw this somewhere...
follow this link, and if you make a purchase you might even provide
lunch money for an old webmaster... ;)
http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
once on the page either search for Z-ROD or drill down to the motor oils...
thank you if you actually buy via the link...
1. Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil Click here to purchase
AMSOIL Z-RODb^D" Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and
high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on
flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a
proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during
long-term storage.
2. Z-ROD 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil Click here to purchase
AMSOIL Z-RODb^D" Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and
high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on
flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a
proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during
long-term storage.
AMSOIL Z-RODb^D" Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and
high-performance vehicles. It features a high-zinc formulation to prevent wear
on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a
proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during
long-term storage. Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is designed to perform on the
street and protect during storage.
AMSOIL, the leader in automotive synthetic lubrication, produced the worldb^Ys
first API-qualified synthetic motor oil in 1972. Trust the extensive
experience of AMSOIL, the First in SyntheticsB., to do the best job protecting
your engine.
Protects Flat-Tappet Cams
The lifters and cam lobes on flat-tappet camshafts common to classic and high
performance vehicles slide rapidly against one another, producing high
friction and heat. The friction between the two components can eventually wear
down the cam and affect valve operation, ultimately resulting in lost engine
power and reduced efficiency. In addition, these areas are splash-lubricated
rather than pressure lubricated like other areas of the engine, which adds
extra strain on anti-wear additives like the zinc and phosphorus in zinc
dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP).
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is formulated with high levels of ZDDP to
protect flat-tappet cams, lifters, rockers and other areas susceptible to
wear. Its high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation provides the extra wear
protection these critical splash-lubricated components require.
Provides Long-Term Protection from Rust & Corrosion
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is formulated with a unique blend of rust and
corrosion inhibitors to ensure maximum protection during long-term storage. To
prove its effectiveness, AMSOIL submitted Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil to the
Standard Test Method for Rust Protection in the Humidity Cabinet (ASTM
D-1748). This test evaluates the rust-preventative properties of oil under
high-humidity conditions, similar to those faced by a covered hot rod in a
damp garage. The metal coupon treated with AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil
showed no signs of oxidation after 192 hours, while the coupon treated with a
leading competitorb^Ys product failed the test after 24 hours.
APPLICATIONS
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for older or modified engines
requiring either 10W-30 or 20W-50 motor oil. Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil meets
API SL and earlier specifications, allowing for increased levels of anti-wear
additives. ZDDP levels in Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil exceed the limits of API
SM and newer specifications.
COMPATIBILITY
AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oils are compatible with conventional and other
synthetic motor oils. Mixing AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oils with other
oils, however, will shorten the oilb^Ys life expectancy and reduce the
performance benefits. Aftermarket oil additives are not recommended for use
with AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oils.
SERVICE LIFE
Because engines in classic cars, hot rods and other performance vehicles are
generally modified, a universal oil drain interval recommendation for these
applications cannot be given. Responsibility for determining the drain
interval duration rests with the owner. As a general service guideline, the
maximum drain interval for Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil should not exceed 5,000
miles or one year, whichever comes first. In heavily modified engines (e.g.
forced induction, nitrous) the maximum drain interval should not exceed 3,000
miles or one year, whichever comes first.
HEALTH & SAFETY
This product is not expected to cause health concerns when used for the
intended application and according to the recommendations in the Material
Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). An MSDS is available via the Internet at
www.amsoil.com or upon request at (715) 392-7101. Keep Out of Reach of
Children. Donb^Yt pollute. Return used oil to collection centers.
For warranty information, visit www.amsoil.com/warranty.aspx.
TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
AMSOIL Z-ROD 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil (ZRF)
Viscosity -at- 100B0C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
19.1
Viscosity -at- 40B0C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
132.5
Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
163
Flash Point B0C (B0F) (COC) (ASTM D-92)
236 (457)
Fire Point B0C (B0F) (COC) (ASTM D-92)
252 (486)
Pour Point B0C (B0F) (ASTM D-97)
- -39 (-38)
NOACK Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (ASTM D-5800)
4.7%
High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity
-at- 150B0C, 1.0 X 106 s.-1), cP (ASTM D5481)
5.1
Four-Ball Wear -at- 40 kgf, 75B:C,
1200 rpm, 1 hr, scar diameter, mm (ASTM D-4172)
0.36
Total Base Number (ASTM D-2896)
9.0
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all - please reply to: john-at-wagoneers.com
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:53:11 -0800
From: Jim Blair <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: fsj: Anyone need a 20 tooth speedo gear? He wants $25 shipped US
http://theamcforum.com/forum/topic36481_post337956.html
Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 11:00:04 -0800
From: Jim Blair <carnuck-at-hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: fsj: high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation motor oil
The claim is the zinc is getting past the rings and into the intake, causing
premature catalytic converter and oxygen sensor failure. (California
Sicentists at CARB claim this) So far, cats aren't lasting any longer than
before anyways. 100K and they are done.
Jim Blair, Lynnwood, WA '87 Comanche, '83 Jeep J10, '84 Jeep J10
> Date: Mon, 13 Feb 2012 10:27:55 -0800
> From: john-at-wagoneers.com
> To: r16884-at-freescale.com
> Subject: fsj: high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation motor oil
>
> for those of us with older engines... a shameless plug... ;)
> of course you can buy it elsewhere, sharing the info below on this
> amsoil product that solves a problem...
>
> Trying to remember why they want to pull zinc, is it messing with cats?
(not
> the furry kind, the catalytic type... ;)
>
> john
>
>
> On Mon, 13 Feb 2012, Tesar Landon-R16884 wrote:
> # John, do you know Amsoil's approach to dealing with the conflict of
> reducing
> zinc/moly and flat tappet camshafts?
> # Have they published something on this?
> #
> # - Landon
>
>
> I knew I saw this somewhere...
> follow this link, and if you make a purchase you might even provide
> lunch money for an old webmaster... ;)
>
> http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
>
> once on the page either search for Z-ROD or drill down to the motor oils...
> thank you if you actually buy via the link...
>
>
> 1. Z-ROD 10W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil Click here to purchase
> AMSOIL Z-RODb^D" Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and
> high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on
> flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a
> proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection
during
> long-term storage.
>
> 2. Z-ROD 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil Click here to purchase
> AMSOIL Z-RODb^D" Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and
> high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on
> flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a
> proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection
during
> long-term storage.
>
>
> AMSOIL Z-RODb^D" Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and
> high-performance vehicles. It features a high-zinc formulation to prevent
wear
> on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a
> proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection
during
> long-term storage. Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is designed to perform on the
> street and protect during storage.
>
> AMSOIL, the leader in automotive synthetic lubrication, produced the
worldb^Ys
> first API-qualified synthetic motor oil in 1972. Trust the extensive
> experience of AMSOIL, the First in SyntheticsB., to do the best job
protecting
> your engine.
>
> Protects Flat-Tappet Cams
> The lifters and cam lobes on flat-tappet camshafts common to classic and
high
> performance vehicles slide rapidly against one another, producing high
> friction and heat. The friction between the two components can eventually
wear
> down the cam and affect valve operation, ultimately resulting in lost
engine
> power and reduced efficiency. In addition, these areas are
splash-lubricated
> rather than pressure lubricated like other areas of the engine, which adds
> extra strain on anti-wear additives like the zinc and phosphorus in zinc
> dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP).
>
> AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is formulated with high levels of ZDDP to
> protect flat-tappet cams, lifters, rockers and other areas susceptible to
> wear. Its high-zinc, high-phosphorus formulation provides the extra wear
> protection these critical splash-lubricated components require.
>
> Provides Long-Term Protection from Rust & Corrosion
> AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is formulated with a unique blend of rust
and
> corrosion inhibitors to ensure maximum protection during long-term storage.
To
> prove its effectiveness, AMSOIL submitted Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil to the
> Standard Test Method for Rust Protection in the Humidity Cabinet (ASTM
> D-1748). This test evaluates the rust-preventative properties of oil under
> high-humidity conditions, similar to those faced by a covered hot rod in a
> damp garage. The metal coupon treated with AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil
> showed no signs of oxidation after 192 hours, while the coupon treated with
a
> leading competitorb^Ys product failed the test after 24 hours.
>
> APPLICATIONS
> AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil is recommended for older or modified
engines
> requiring either 10W-30 or 20W-50 motor oil. Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil
meets
> API SL and earlier specifications, allowing for increased levels of
anti-wear
> additives. ZDDP levels in Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil exceed the limits of
API
> SM and newer specifications.
>
> COMPATIBILITY
> AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oils are compatible with conventional and
other
> synthetic motor oils. Mixing AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oils with other
> oils, however, will shorten the oilb^Ys life expectancy and reduce the
> performance benefits. Aftermarket oil additives are not recommended for use
> with AMSOIL Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oils.
>
> SERVICE LIFE
> Because engines in classic cars, hot rods and other performance vehicles
are
> generally modified, a universal oil drain interval recommendation for these
> applications cannot be given. Responsibility for determining the drain
> interval duration rests with the owner. As a general service guideline, the
> maximum drain interval for Z-ROD Synthetic Motor Oil should not exceed
5,000
> miles or one year, whichever comes first. In heavily modified engines (e.g.
> forced induction, nitrous) the maximum drain interval should not exceed
3,000
> miles or one year, whichever comes first.
>
> HEALTH & SAFETY
> This product is not expected to cause health concerns when used for the
> intended application and according to the recommendations in the Material
> Safety Data Sheet (MSDS). An MSDS is available via the Internet at
> www.amsoil.com or upon request at (715) 392-7101. Keep Out of Reach of
> Children. Donb^Yt pollute. Return used oil to collection centers.
>
> For warranty information, visit www.amsoil.com/warranty.aspx.
>
>
>
> TYPICAL TECHNICAL PROPERTIES
> AMSOIL Z-ROD 20W-50 Synthetic Motor Oil (ZRF)
> Viscosity -at- 100B0C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
> 19.1
> Viscosity -at- 40B0C, cSt (ASTM D-445)
> 132.5
> Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270)
> 163
> Flash Point B0C (B0F) (COC) (ASTM D-92)
> 236 (457)
> Fire Point B0C (B0F) (COC) (ASTM D-92)
> 252 (486)
> Pour Point B0C (B0F) (ASTM D-97)
> -39 (-38)
> NOACK Volatility, % weight loss (g/100g) (ASTM D-5800)
> 4.7%
> High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity
> -at- 150B0C, 1.0 X 106 s.-1), cP (ASTM D5481)
> 5.1
> Four-Ball Wear -at- 40 kgf, 75B:C,
> 1200 rpm, 1 hr, scar diameter, mm (ASTM D-4172)
> 0.36
> Total Base Number (ASTM D-2896)
> 9.0
>
>
> -----
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -o|||||o- fahrvergnugen y'all - please reply to: john-at-wagoneers.com
> Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't rust, they mold
> http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461 TRSTGZS
> http://JohnMeister.com HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM http://fotomeister.us
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
End of fsj-digest V1 #3858
**************************