From owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net Tue Mar 27 19:07:00 2012
From: fsj-digest <owner-fsj-digest-at-digest.net>
To: fsj-digest-at-digest.net
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 02:07:06 +0000
Subject: fsj-digest V1 #3883
fsj-digest Wednesday, March 28 2012 Volume 01 : Number 3883
Forum for Discussion of Full Sized SJ Series Jeeps
Brian Colucci <ABCvoice-at-worldnet.att.net>
Digest Coordinator
Contents:
Re: fsj: Saturday morning... engine taken out
Re: fsj: Saturday morning... engine taken out
fsj: J10 work, better part of Saturday
Re: fsj: J10 work, better part of Saturday
fsj: thought I was seeing things at first...
Re: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
fsj: Carb Mod to get more power out of your engine (fwd)
fsj: Easter Jeep Safari
RE: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
Re: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
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----------------------------------------------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 00:48:32 -0300
From: Ernesto Silva <erniesilva-at-gmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: Saturday morning... engine taken out
Update....
... well... I've cleaned up the engine a little bit, just the worst part.
I've discovered the following problems:
- - the exhaust hub, the big pipe where the smoke gets out is broken, one of
thats tiny parts where the bolts adjusts. I believe thats because the
exhaust pipe it's too rigid, I'll have to get it repaired and put a piece
of flexible pipe in it or change the mounting pieces so engine's vibration
doesn't have to deal with the exhaust pipe inertia. I need a couple of
bronze nuts to secure the pipe, and the gasket of course
- - the first diesel pump, the one with manual actuator has too large bolts,
well I don't really know how to name those kind of bolts, there are those
without head and thread on both ends (I call them "esparragos"). Anyway
I'll have to replace them with shorter ones, and also buy the gasket.
- - I'm very busy till Thursday morning, so I'll try to find a replace for
the clutch release bearing, hard to find.
- - I'll also intend to change the filters (fuel and oil).
- - I can't forget about the initial problem, the thread of the starter motor.
Lots of work to be done in relation to my little free time.
PD: I've updated the flickr album at
http://www.flickr.com/photos/ernieuy/sets/72157629296194586/
Regards,
Ernesto.
On Sat, Mar 24, 2012 at 11:28 PM, Ernesto Silva <erniesilva-at-gmail.com>wrote:
> Hi guys, I have been doing nothing or little work on my 64'Wag with it's
> 4.203 Perkins diesel engine.
>
> About a month ago the starter motor stopped working, I heard the classical
> "clack" from the solenoid but no apparently no current flowed into the
> starter motor.
>
> I visited about 4 shops till I found the part (from china). Mr. Murphy has
> been visiting me too many times, can someone invite him somewhere else?
>
> I had some electrical connections problems (brass bolt with no threads),
> coal (those rotor contacts) springs broken, etc.
>
> When I finally managed to assembly the starter motor and placed into the
> engine I discovered that one of the three bolts has the nut-part in the
> clutch case threads worn out. I managed to work with a drill and convert it
> from 3/8" to 1/2", I was happy... but... Mr. Murphy showed up and.... I
> loose my happiness.
> Another bolt, the one nearest the engine block was in the same condition.
> No way, I had to take the engine out.
>
> So I did it today, and I hope to repair or replace the clutch and the
> clutch plate.
> The clutch was not so bad, 50% used, I left it in a shop to get ir repaired
> and rebuild as necessary.
> The BIG problem is the clutch release bearing, It was modified by someone
> else before me, grrrrrr, that kind person managed to use a normal ball
> bearing, instead of a flat plates bearing.
> I'll have to search a used one or be lucky (with your help if you call Mr.
> Murphy so he leaves me alone for a while) and find a replacement, which
> some shop owners told me today it was not an easy task.
>
> You can see some photos at
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/ernieuy/sets/72157629296194586/
>
> I'll try to upload some engine photos tomorrow, I'll be cleaning it and
> making the part list to buy.
>
> Regards,
> Ernesto.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 22:57:41 -0500
From: Landon Tesar <ltesar3421-at-sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: fsj: Saturday morning... engine taken out
Thanks, Ernesto.
I guess Jeeps are like British cars. With British cars, as soon as
you figure out the function of a strange part, it breaks.
With Jeeps, as soon as you decide to upgrade something, you figure
out the thing it is attached to needs to be upgraded as well.
Bolts with threads on both ends, we call them 'studs'
- - Landon
///////
On Mar 26, 2012, at 10:48 PM, Ernesto Silva wrote:
> Update....
>
> ... well... I've cleaned up the engine a little bit, just the worst
> part.
>
> I've discovered the following problems:
> - the exhaust hub, the big pipe where the smoke gets out is broken,
> one of
> thats tiny parts where the bolts adjusts. I believe thats because the
> exhaust pipe it's too rigid, I'll have to get it repaired and put a
> piece
> of flexible pipe in it or change the mounting pieces so engine's
> vibration
> doesn't have to deal with the exhaust pipe inertia. I need a couple of
> bronze nuts to secure the pipe, and the gasket of course
>
> - the first diesel pump, the one with manual actuator has too large
> bolts,
> well I don't really know how to name those kind of bolts, there are
> those
> without head and thread on both ends (I call them "esparragos").
> Anyway
> I'll have to replace them with shorter ones, and also buy the gasket.
>
> - I'm very busy till Thursday morning, so I'll try to find a
> replace for
> the clutch release bearing, hard to find.
>
> - I'll also intend to change the filters (fuel and oil).
>
> - I can't forget about the initial problem, the thread of the
> starter motor.
>
> Lots of work to be done in relation to my little free time.
>
> PD: I've updated the flickr album at
> http://www.flickr.com/photos/ernieuy/sets/72157629296194586/
>
> Regards,
> Ernesto.
>
>
> On Sat, Mar 24, 2012 at 11:28 PM, Ernesto Silva
> <erniesilva-at-gmail.com>wrote:
>
>> Hi guys, I have been doing nothing or little work on my 64'Wag
>> with it's
>> 4.203 Perkins diesel engine.
>>
>> About a month ago the starter motor stopped working, I heard the
>> classical
>> "clack" from the solenoid but no apparently no current flowed into
>> the
>> starter motor.
>>
>> I visited about 4 shops till I found the part (from china). Mr.
>> Murphy has
>> been visiting me too many times, can someone invite him somewhere
>> else?
>>
>> I had some electrical connections problems (brass bolt with no
>> threads),
>> coal (those rotor contacts) springs broken, etc.
>>
>> When I finally managed to assembly the starter motor and placed
>> into the
>> engine I discovered that one of the three bolts has the nut-part
>> in the
>> clutch case threads worn out. I managed to work with a drill and
>> convert it
>> from 3/8" to 1/2", I was happy... but... Mr. Murphy showed up
>> and.... I
>> loose my happiness.
>> Another bolt, the one nearest the engine block was in the same
>> condition.
>> No way, I had to take the engine out.
>>
>> So I did it today, and I hope to repair or replace the clutch and the
>> clutch plate.
>> The clutch was not so bad, 50% used, I left it in a shop to get ir
>> repaired
>> and rebuild as necessary.
>> The BIG problem is the clutch release bearing, It was modified by
>> someone
>> else before me, grrrrrr, that kind person managed to use a normal
>> ball
>> bearing, instead of a flat plates bearing.
>> I'll have to search a used one or be lucky (with your help if you
>> call Mr.
>> Murphy so he leaves me alone for a while) and find a replacement,
>> which
>> some shop owners told me today it was not an easy task.
>>
>> You can see some photos at
>> http://www.flickr.com/photos/ernieuy/sets/72157629296194586/
>>
>> I'll try to upload some engine photos tomorrow, I'll be cleaning
>> it and
>> making the part list to buy.
>>
>> Regards,
>> Ernesto.
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 23:24:01 -0500
From: Landon Tesar <ltesar3421-at-sbcglobal.net>
Subject: fsj: J10 work, better part of Saturday
Hi all,
Well, I actually upgraded something on the Jeep.
Fuel tank is replaced with a plastic one, and now it runs with a
'gasp!' electric fuel pump.
A Carter pump for a Carter carb.
Unfortunately, I forgot the blockoff plate for the old pump, so got
the engine bay ...damp.
But the gasket was so bad, maybe it was leaking oil from there! And
I need a blockoff plate for a BBC not a SBC. Wife said - just use a
piece of wood.
Put on a clutch return spring, Yay. Cleaned, primed, and painted
the tank skid plate. Yay. Routed the fuel line up the driver's side
frame rail to the carb, shorter distance and reused metal pipe as
much as we could.
Someone tapped into the main red/white 10 ga wire from the firewall
to the ignition module and ran a wire to the solenoid, as I guess the
'hot in Run position'. I took the tape off and put on a proper
connector.
I'm disappointed with the MTS fuel tank. It's shorter overall, but
there is a boss on top for the vapor return line brass 90 deg 1/4 NPT
fitting, which I had to source myself, and it contacts the bottom of
the bed. Also, the main feed line is very tight to get on.
The replacement sock filter from BJs was just a tad longer than
original so I had to bend the pickup to get it to fit, the fit may be
so tight that it limits the movement of the sender and now my gauge
doesn't work :( No wonder people like OEM parts.
One blockoff plate and registration and I'm back on the road.
- - Landon
79 J10
------------------------------
Date: Mon, 26 Mar 2012 22:04:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: J10 work, better part of Saturday
I've made a block off plate from an old file cabinet divider... just
need a stout piece of sheet metal and some gasket material.
actually you could just pull the lever off the old pump, jb weld up
any orificies or better weld it shut and use it. I blocked off
an egr on one engine that way... just pulled it off and welded
it shut... actually, I think I did that on an old fuel pump as
well... it's cast, right? you should be able to close that up
with a buzz box... or use jbweld... it's not under pressure...
The fuel pump on a 6.2L Diesel is a royal pain to deal with...
john
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
b^\A thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college
educationb^]
Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Mon, 26 Mar 2012, Landon Tesar wrote:
# Hi all,
#
# Well, I actually upgraded something on the Jeep.
#
# Fuel tank is replaced with a plastic one, and now it runs with a 'gasp!'
# electric fuel pump.
# A Carter pump for a Carter carb.
#
# Unfortunately, I forgot the blockoff plate for the old pump, so got the
# engine bay ...damp.
# But the gasket was so bad, maybe it was leaking oil from there! And I need
a
# blockoff plate for a BBC not a SBC. Wife said - just use a piece of wood.
#
# Put on a clutch return spring, Yay. Cleaned, primed, and painted the
tank
# skid plate. Yay. Routed the fuel line up the driver's side frame rail to
# the carb, shorter distance and reused metal pipe as much as we could.
#
# Someone tapped into the main red/white 10 ga wire from the firewall to the
# ignition module and ran a wire to the solenoid, as I guess the 'hot in Run
# position'. I took the tape off and put on a proper connector.
#
# I'm disappointed with the MTS fuel tank. It's shorter overall, but there
is
# a boss on top for the vapor return line brass 90 deg 1/4 NPT fitting, which
I
# had to source myself, and it contacts the bottom of the bed. Also, the
main
# feed line is very tight to get on.
# The replacement sock filter from BJs was just a tad longer than original so
I
# had to bend the pickup to get it to fit, the fit may be so tight that it
# limits the movement of the sender and now my gauge doesn't work :( No
# wonder people like OEM parts.
#
# One blockoff plate and registration and I'm back on the road.
#
# - Landon
# 79 J10
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 00:54:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: fsj: thought I was seeing things at first...
just happened to watch alcatraz tonight whilst dog sitting and thought I was
seeing something
kind of like what I saw over 40 years ago... yes... it looks like Bullitt
revisited... very cool... a new
2013 mustang chasing a new FOUR-door charger? ok.... they sounded ok... a
little weird,
and it still had the same VW beetle trying to get up that hill... I think I've
passed that beetle a few
times in SF as well... wonder who owns that...
but I have to say, the original soundtrack is like nothing you'll ever hear
again,
have watched a lot of chase scenes in movies, but the
original Bullitt is still one of the finest sounds in the world... nothing
like it...
what was really cool is that when my best friend and I watched the movie
he owned a Dodge Charger, and I had a '68 Mustang... needless to say we both
went through a set of tires pretty quick... :)
but this version was cool... a little weird with the granddaughter chasing her
grandfather
who is driving a four door dodge, that when pitted rolls... hmmm... guess at
the
price of gasoline they didn't want the chase to go out of SF, or worse, blow
up another refinery. :)
http://www.fox.com/alcatraz/ford/?bannerid=1193854|76192267|252445961|0&refer
rer=N3016.fox
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
b^\A thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college
educationb^]
Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 16:14:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
I learned a lot of tricks from old Lou... we used to reline brake shoes,
would drill out the rivets, apply new material, hone the wheel cylinders, all
of that stuff... :) he taught me a number of tricks... I'm thinking before
you
were even in grade school... yet you've probably got way more tricks than I
have... :)
I decided in High School to go into electronics instead of staying on the
path
of wrench... but never really gave it up. :)
john
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
b^\A thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college
educationb^]
Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 27 Mar 2012, Terry Halmshaw wrote:
# I have never in my life used a pickle fork, the way that is illustrated is
# the correct way to remove tie rods and most ball joints, a pickle fork
# 9 X out of 10 will ruin the tie rod end, so if you require the removal of
# the stub axle using a pickle fork will also cost you a new tie rod end.
#
# As john said the methods he uses are tried and tested by myself also,
# I have been wrenching 30+ years and never required or even been
# tempted to buy one of those tie rod end wreckers.
#
# The information about the Subarus is incorrect, I have rebuilt many
# subie front ends and never came across "moosh" whatever that is
# supposed to mean, I assume soft metal, what is required in that
# situation is softer hitting with the hammer.
#
# Terry.
#
# At 06:18 AM 27/03/2012, you wrote:
# > On Mon, 26 Mar 2012, Doug Thorndike wrote:
# > # You don't even need a pickle fork when removing the outer tie rod end
# > from
# > the knuckle. This
# > # trick works for me when I replaced my left axle seal last month.
# > # ‪The Easy Best Way to Separate a Ball Joint Tie Rod End How
# > to‬‏ - YouTube
# >
# > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-izhhc
# >
# > this is a little different than the trick I was taught, the reason this
one
# > worked
# > is because the back side of that tapered seat was firmly mounted to an
# > immovable object.
# >
# > if you have a tie rod end or some other non-anchored fitting place a
sledge
# > hammer behind
# > the knuckle and then hit it about the same way... I've also hit it at
the
# > same
# > time
# > with two hammers, but that requires more luck to hit at the same time.
;)
# >
# > either way, it does work... I've never used a pickle fork...
# >
# > thanx doug,
# > john
# >
# > -----
# > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > -o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
# > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
# > buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
# >
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > bA thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college
# > educationb
# > Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
# >
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
# >
# > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
# > signature database 7002 (20120327) __________
# >
# > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
# >
# > http://www.eset.com
#
#
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 16:41:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: john <john-at-wagoneers.com>
Subject: fsj: Carb Mod to get more power out of your engine (fwd)
http://videos2view.net/more-power.htm
be sure to use plenty of duct tape, you don't want any leaks...
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
b^\A thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college
educationb^]
Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: SB <lasikeyes-at-msn.com>
To: john-at-wagoneers.com
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 07:36:52 -0700
Subject: Carb Mod to get more power out of your engine
http://videos2view.net/more-power.htm
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 18:48:57 -0700
From: "Joe Hughes" <joe-at-j-hughes.com>
Subject: fsj: Easter Jeep Safari
Jeep is teasing us with a bunch of concept vehicles that they'll never make:
http://autoholics.com/2012/03/27/Easter-Jeep-Safari-Concepts-621618
Joe Hughes
Everett, WA
------------------------------
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 19:04:23 -0700
From: "Joe Hughes" <joe-at-j-hughes.com>
Subject: RE: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
That's ingenious I've never seen it done like that. I actually own a fork,
but have never used it. The way I've always done it is by loosening the nut
so that it is flush with the end of the shaft, and then hitting on top of
the nut until it breaks free. That way the threads don't get damaged from
hammering on it.
Joe Hughes
Everett, WA
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of john
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 4:15 PM
To: Terry Halmshaw
Cc: full size jeep list
Subject: Re: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
I learned a lot of tricks from old Lou... we used to reline brake shoes,
would drill out the rivets, apply new material, hone the wheel cylinders,
all of that stuff... :) he taught me a number of tricks... I'm thinking
before you were even in grade school... yet you've probably got way more
tricks than I have... :) I decided in High School to go into electronics
instead of staying on the path of wrench... but never really gave it up. :)
john
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
b^\A thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college educationb^]
Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 27 Mar 2012, Terry Halmshaw wrote:
# I have never in my life used a pickle fork, the way that is illustrated
is # the correct way to remove tie rods and most ball joints, a pickle fork
# 9 X out of 10 will ruin the tie rod end, so if you require the removal of
# the stub axle using a pickle fork will also cost you a new tie rod end.
#
# As john said the methods he uses are tried and tested by myself also, #
I have been wrenching 30+ years and never required or even been # tempted
to buy one of those tie rod end wreckers.
#
# The information about the Subarus is incorrect, I have rebuilt many #
subie front ends and never came across "moosh" whatever that is # supposed
to mean, I assume soft metal, what is required in that # situation is
softer hitting with the hammer.
#
# Terry.
#
# At 06:18 AM 27/03/2012, you wrote:
# > On Mon, 26 Mar 2012, Doug Thorndike wrote:
# > # You don't even need a pickle fork when removing the outer tie rod
end # > from # > the knuckle. This # > # trick works for me when I
replaced my left axle seal last month.
# > # ‪The Easy Best Way to Separate a Ball Joint Tie Rod End How
# > to‬‏ - YouTube # >
# > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-izhhc
# >
# > this is a little different than the trick I was taught, the reason this
one # > worked # > is because the back side of that tapered seat was
firmly mounted to an # > immovable object.
# >
# > if you have a tie rod end or some other non-anchored fitting place a
sledge # > hammer behind # > the knuckle and then hit it about the same
way... I've also hit it at the # > same # > time # > with two hammers,
but that requires more luck to hit at the same time.
;)
# >
# > either way, it does work... I've never used a pickle fork...
# >
# > thanx doug,
# > john
# >
# > -----
# >
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > -o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
# > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
# > buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
# >
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > bA thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college # >
educationb
# > Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
# >
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
# >
# > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus # >
signature database 7002 (20120327) __________ # > # > The message was
checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
# >
# > http://www.eset.com
#
#
------------------------------
Date: Wed, 28 Mar 2012 02:06:57 +0000
From: john <fullsizejeeps-at-gmail.com>
Subject: Re: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
That's hard to do if it's not anchored. Sometimes getting enough room to swing is a problem. :)
__john_at_http://wagoneers.com__
- -----Original Message-----
From: "Joe Hughes" <joe-at-j-hughes.com>
Sender: owner-fsj-at-digest.net
Date: Tue, 27 Mar 2012 19:04:23
To: 'full size jeep list'<fsj-at-digest.net>
Reply-To: "Joe Hughes" <joe-at-j-hughes.com>Subject: RE: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
That's ingenious I've never seen it done like that. I actually own a fork,
but have never used it. The way I've always done it is by loosening the nut
so that it is flush with the end of the shaft, and then hitting on top of
the nut until it breaks free. That way the threads don't get damaged from
hammering on it.
Joe Hughes
Everett, WA
- -----Original Message-----
From: owner-fsj-at-digest.net [mailto:owner-fsj-at-digest.net] On Behalf Of john
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2012 4:15 PM
To: Terry Halmshaw
Cc: full size jeep list
Subject: Re: fsj: no pickle fork required - tie rod ends...
I learned a lot of tricks from old Lou... we used to reline brake shoes,
would drill out the rivets, apply new material, hone the wheel cylinders,
all of that stuff... :) he taught me a number of tricks... I'm thinking
before you were even in grade school... yet you've probably got way more
tricks than I have... :) I decided in High School to go into electronics
instead of staying on the path of wrench... but never really gave it up. :)
john
-----
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
-o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
b^\A thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college educationb^]
Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
On Tue, 27 Mar 2012, Terry Halmshaw wrote:
# I have never in my life used a pickle fork, the way that is illustrated
is # the correct way to remove tie rods and most ball joints, a pickle fork
# 9 X out of 10 will ruin the tie rod end, so if you require the removal of
# the stub axle using a pickle fork will also cost you a new tie rod end.
#
# As john said the methods he uses are tried and tested by myself also, #
I have been wrenching 30+ years and never required or even been # tempted
to buy one of those tie rod end wreckers.
#
# The information about the Subarus is incorrect, I have rebuilt many #
subie front ends and never came across "moosh" whatever that is # supposed
to mean, I assume soft metal, what is required in that # situation is
softer hitting with the hammer.
#
# Terry.
#
# At 06:18 AM 27/03/2012, you wrote:
# > On Mon, 26 Mar 2012, Doug Thorndike wrote:
# > # You don't even need a pickle fork when removing the outer tie rod
end # > from # > the knuckle. This # > # trick works for me when I
replaced my left axle seal last month.
# > # ‪The Easy Best Way to Separate a Ball Joint Tie Rod End How
# > to‬‏ - YouTube # >
# > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LDsci-izhhc
# >
# > this is a little different than the trick I was taught, the reason this
one # > worked # > is because the back side of that tapered seat was
firmly mounted to an # > immovable object.
# >
# > if you have a tie rod end or some other non-anchored fitting place a
sledge # > hammer behind # > the knuckle and then hit it about the same
way... I've also hit it at the # > same # > time # > with two hammers,
but that requires more luck to hit at the same time.
;)
# >
# > either way, it does work... I've never used a pickle fork...
# >
# > thanx doug,
# > john
# >
# > -----
# >
- ------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > -o|||||o- john-at- http://wagoneers.com TRSTGZS
# > Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and Diesels don't rust, they mold
# > buy direct: http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461
# >
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
# > bA thorough knowledge of the Bible is worth more than a college # >
educationb
# > Theodore Roosevelt (American 26th US President (1901-09), 1858-1919)
# >
- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
# >
# > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus # >
signature database 7002 (20120327) __________ # > # > The message was
checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
# >
# > http://www.eset.com
#
#
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