From ABCvoice@worldnet.att.net Mon May 1 09:14:11 2000 From: "B. COLUCCI" <ABCvoice@worldnet.att.net> Greetings Chip & The Rest Of The FSJ World! For what it is worth the USS GW is an 89 so I've been there and done all of that. 90 GW Put a few more miles on the recently acquired "Black Hole" today First, I ran out of gas today. Gauge doesn't work too well, stays pegged above full until it's ready to quit, then falls quickly and ran out around stated 1/2 tank. Friend came to the rescue as I was only 10 miles from home, got 4 gallons in, then another 12 at the pump. Book says I should have 20 gallon tank. ***That's about right. - - Can I access the fuel sender from under the back seat? Haynes indicates later vehicles don't require tank removal. ***Correct. Patience is important here. On many rigs you will find that the access cove has a ring of rust holding it to the floor. The attachment screws are small and usually there connection hole in the floor has rusted away. Or at least has enough rust on the screw that it is hard to remove. I have found that placing some slight upward pressure from under the screw head with a small flat bladed screw driver while you loosen the screw with your philips driver usually works well to remove the screws. This is where you will also find your problem. Your sender is probably OK. What has happened is that your ground wire may have come unplugged from the sender. Or maybe both wires are connected. Then you have a dirt and corrosion problem. Here is how to test your gauge. Disconnect both wires from the sender. Put the ignition switch in the RUN position. If memory serves the gauge should read full. Turn off the ignition switch. Place a wire jumper between the two connectors. Then turn the Ignition switch to the run position. This should give your fuel gauge the opposite reading. I think that is empty. If it is empty your low fuel light should also come on. If the test fails clean those connectors well with some good quality electric contact cleaner. You do not want the stuff from some place like radio shack. You want the stuff that is like $10 a can. Once you have really cleaned those connectors try the above test again. You should be OK. If not you have a damaged wire that will have to be traced; or get ready to shell out about $45 for a new gauge from your local Jeep dealer. Assuming this all works then you need to thoroughly clean the connectors on the tank side with your contact cleaner dampened shop rag and reconnect the wires. Now start the Jeep. You should now have an accurate fuel level reading. You will probably find the gauge to be quite twitchy when you drive; but this way you know that the gas is back there sloshing around. If the gauge is fine but the low fuel light does not come on. That is an easy fix. It is not a soddered on LED like in the modern luxo-cruisers; it is a regular instrument cluster light bulb that can be replaced by pulling the cluster. - - Is the sender related to the fuel pickup/feed? I.E. could my feed line be a little short? ***Yes it is all one unit that is removed from the top of the tank. There is a filter sock on the end that tends to disintegrate over time. That is why you have an external fuel filter under the hood. I think we lose to many fuel pumps when they are clogged by sock trash. IMHO. Your feed line length is OK I'm sure. Just leave that entire unit in the tank. Once you pull it out you are asking for trouble. Second-and-a-half - oil pressure sender or gauge would seem to bind somewhere around 35-40psi, sometimes it won't go above that unless I really punch it, then it won't drop down below that. I'm getting used to it, but has anyone else experienced this with the '86-'91 setup, and is it the sender or the gauge? ***It could be your sender. They fail easily. Low oil pressure is the norm for these AMC 360 motors. The gauge should be OK these later rigs all have quality USA made Stewart Warner gauges. Third - where is the rear wash/wipe glass-up safety switch? Wash and wipe on rear window inoperative, fuse present and good. *** OK are you sitting down? This is going to hurt. It probably is the motor that has gone south on you. Sense they were only used from 89-91 on this vehicle no after market company has made a knock off of the motor; because it is not profitable for them. They want to make motors that will fit 3 or 4 different types of cars. So the only place to get one is direct from a dealer. Be prepared to spend between $300 -$400 for this item, if they can even get it. At last check the Chrysler national parts locator showed 0 available in any of the warehouses. This means that your only hope is to find one on a dealers shelf. Before we get to scary let's dig into the Black Hole. (you figure out if I meant the location or the proper vehicle name. <GRIN>) You will have to lower your tailgate, find an assistant, and a lawn chair. Remove the carpet and the access panel. Keep track of all of those philips head screws. <GRIN> Place the lawn chair behind the tailgate. Turn the key to ACCESSORY. Have your assistant push the dash switch up to raise the window and hold it there, unless you scream STOP! Nothing should happen. If that window starts moving at this point SCREAM STOP! This would indicate that your tailgate safety switch is malfunctioning. You now stand on the drivers side of the tailgate with your right hand poised to catch the glass. With your left hand activate the safety switch momentarily and release. This will give you a feel for how fast that window moves. The switch is on the side of the tailgate and looks like a hockey stick. It is easily moved with your finger. Watch through the access hole in the tailgate and eject the window only until the window base clears the top edge of the access hole. When at this point have your assistant turn off the key and release the switch. Then they can come behind the Jeep and sit in the lawn chair. While seated in the chair rest the tailgate on their legs and have them hold the glass level with both hands. Any helper over 14 years old should be able to do this for an extended period without discomfort. Now you need to get a good twelve volt power source like a spare car battery and connect some test lines to it. Inside the tailgate you will see the pancake style motor at the top with a wire harness coming off of it. Disconnect this harness at its 4 way connector. Now following your wiring diagram in your service manual hook up your battery to the motor and see if it runs. Hopefully it does. THis would mean that you simply would have to trace the wire harness out of the tailgate towards the front and fix and damaged wiring. If the motor moans but fails to move then you have a corroded drive shaft in the motor that needs to be disassembled and cleaned. You can do this yourself with some tech tips from Ray Droulliard who is also on the list. Want to know the history of your motor? This is why nobody rebuilds the thing. Nobody claims knowledge of its existence. <GRIN> The motor was designed by Renault in France. They in turn shipped the parts to Canada for final assembly. The completed motor was then sold to Chrysler of Canada who exported it to Toledo for final installation in you FSJ. I think I saw something from you the other day asking about the keyless entry. Another Orphaned system. It was Designed and manufactured by Renault in France. There are no after market equivalents or parts. All replacement parts must come from France. This is about a 3 week turn around time once you place your order at your local Jeep dealer. You can order new Key fob remotes. They are about $40 each. To do this you have to remove your overhead console. The remove the protective cover from the IR sensor area. The IR sensor is that small black dome that peaks out of the console ahead of the rear reading lamps. Once you have the sensor board in hand there is a code number on the control chip on a piece of paper. You will need that number to order the correct new key fob remotes. Need/want stuff category: - - driver door dome light switch (3 pin plug) ***Use your new contact cleaner on it. It will work great. I do mine once or twice a year. Until The Next Dimension, Admiral "Coluch." Starfleet Headquarters Ohio Post End Transmission........................................